Mounting OEM transfer case skid??

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Dec 8, 2012 | 07:57 PM
  #1  
I got a transfer case skid from the JY, went to put it on, and it didn't fit. The holes on the frame and crossmember that are supposed to be threaded aren't. So, what have you guys done to mount the skid on a rig that didn't come with it from the factory?
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Dec 8, 2012 | 08:05 PM
  #2  
Have you considered tapping the holes?
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Dec 8, 2012 | 08:07 PM
  #3  
Yeah, that was the first thought to pop into my head. Not sure how much metal there is to tap though. Doesn't seem like much.
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Dec 8, 2012 | 10:23 PM
  #4  
Is the skid for kind of t case?
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Dec 8, 2012 | 10:34 PM
  #5  
You can cut a small hole on the side to get a nut in to put a bolt through. The only other option would be to have a shop (or DIY if capable) weld a nut in. Do not directly weld the whole skid, gotta be reversible in case your T-case needs attention or swapped.
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Dec 9, 2012 | 12:19 AM
  #6  
Quote: You can cut a small hole on the side to get a nut in to put a bolt through. The only other option would be to have a shop (or DIY if capable) weld a nut in. Do not directly weld the whole skid, gotta be reversible in case your T-case needs attention or swapped.
This. I've seen self-tapping screws referenced a couple times too, actually. Big ones. Specifically saw this when researching if a ZJ skid plate would work (it does). The frame rails are like 12 or 14 gauge sheet metal bended into shape.
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Dec 9, 2012 | 09:28 AM
  #7  
I will consider the self tapping screws, but I don't really wanna cut a hole in the frame to stick a bolt or nut in there. Would there be enough metal to tap and send a bolt through? My dad did a similar thing when my crossmember bolts literally fell right out. He tapped it and stuck a bigger bolt through. I'm just not sure if the metal is the same thickness by the t-case skid. I'm not very knowledgeable of steel thickness, but isn't 12 kinda thin?
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Dec 9, 2012 | 11:01 AM
  #8  
when i put an oem skid on mine i had to cut the skid and drill new holes and mount it to the lip on the cross bar.

for the other side i welded a nut to a thick washer that fit inside the hole tword the back of the body rail. then lined it up with the existing hole and welded it in.

  

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Dec 9, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #9  
No the frame rail isn't thick enough to tap. 14 gauge steel is apparently 0.0747" thick. In places like the crossmember there is sort of a nut inside the rail, it looks more like a rivet from the top. You can cut a little hole in the floor to drop in a nut or bolt, too
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Dec 9, 2012 | 02:24 PM
  #10  
how about a rivit nut or nut sert ? i used rivit nuts to mount my sliders to the frame rail.
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Dec 9, 2012 | 05:29 PM
  #11  
Yeah that's basically how the transmission crossmember attaches
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Dec 9, 2012 | 06:32 PM
  #12  
that's how an oem skid is installed...riv-nut/nut serts.
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Dec 10, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #13  
Thanks guys, I'll see what I can do.
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Jan 20, 2013 | 11:34 PM
  #14  
What did you end up doing?
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Jan 21, 2013 | 12:21 AM
  #15  
I would just weld a nut in
Griff i can do it for you if you want
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