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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 07:37 AM
  #16  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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All this talk about oil is making me hungry......

I'm with you guys on checking for coolant loss and gandering into the oil filler with a light.

OP, got another vehicle at home or in the hood?

Compare oils.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 09:14 AM
  #17  
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Year: 2004
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Engine: 2000 4.0
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Analyzing oil by looking at it is an opinionated guess at best. Send a sample to a lab if you want real data. An old school mechanic can check for contamination and dispensary with a simple blotter test. I use the blotter test to determine when it is time to change oil.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 12:18 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
You tell that to anyone running race motors even cheap ones like mine but still in the $45-60,000 range and the filters.
Your comment was to avoid Pennzoil like the plague.
The anti-pennzoil stuff was based on old wive's tales that circulated in the 70's, started by Pennzoil's competitors. I was working for the Ford dealer back then. Back when motors were blowing up on Mobil 1 and their 10K OCI's.
Truth is there are plenty of race motors running on Pennzoil, HP builders do not avoid it like the plague, nor is there any reason to.
One of the most respected oils out there- Brad Penn, is made from base stock pulled from the old Kendall wells, same green stock that Pennzoil was accused of creating engine sludge with decades ago, lol. Those old lies were just that then, and are just that now.

These aren't race motors, they're the equivalent of a 1955 Massey Ferguson.
Any oil meeting the correct standards can, and does- run fine and we're discussing Jeep motors here, not track plants.
Fram OTOH, you won't find any disagreement from most anyone here on avoiding that.

Last edited by Radi; Sep 30, 2013 at 12:21 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 08:46 AM
  #19  
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From: Northern Colorado
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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How about a fresh oil/filter change?
If the milkiness returns, I would check the heads for a crack or bad seal.
Easy and cheap enough.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 09:08 AM
  #20  
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From: Orlando/Winter Garden
Year: 1998
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got oil change yesterday.
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 07:06 AM
  #21  
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From: SD
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
What are you basing your opinion ON???
The fact that if any oil was really bad, it could not pass the testing to earn SN certification.

Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
I ended up using an oil that cost me a few HP on the dyno for more engine protection still Mobile 1 but had to change from 5w30 to 15w50
Never heard of it. Mobile is a city in AL. Mobil 1, on the other hand...

BTW, how does all this talk about 1000+HP race engines apply to DDs and trail rigs with nearly-stock engines?
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 07:31 AM
  #22  
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BTW, here is a link with some UOAs. You can browse through, it's kind of interesting. I'm sure there are some using Pennzoil.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...ge=1&PHPSESSID=

BITOG is a great site to learn about oils/lubes.
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