Motor Mount & Starting Trouble
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Motor Mount & Starting Trouble
The other day I parked my jeep and when I went to start it back up, it would not fire. I had a friend do a few tests on it and he said that it was the distributor. So, I got a new one. When we went to take the old one out, he noticed that my passenger side motor mount was not bolted to the motor. It looks as if it has only had one bolt in it for a while and the last one finally broke or came out, causing the distributor to hit the motor mount pretty hard, breaking it. We removed to motor mount, put in the new distributor and turned the key. It fires occasionally. It seems like it really wants to start, but won't. Taking the wire off the center of the cap and putting a screw driver in it and holding it close to the center of the cap, it is sparking. I can smell gas, so I assume it is getting fuel.
So, would an auto parts store have the motor mount bolts, or do I need to go to a hardware store and what size and threads do I need?
What could be the issue with why it won't start?
1994 Jeep Cherokee Country, 4.0 Inline 6, Automatic
So, would an auto parts store have the motor mount bolts, or do I need to go to a hardware store and what size and threads do I need?
What could be the issue with why it won't start?
1994 Jeep Cherokee Country, 4.0 Inline 6, Automatic
#2
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Your distributor is probably not set up right so the timing is off with the spark and crankshaft. One you get that fixed should run fine. Mount bolt you could go to auto parts store or go to hardware store and get one. Are you looking for the bolt that connect mount to block or mount to unibody
#3
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
I am looking for the three bolts that connect the motor mount to the block.
Just to be sure, starting at #1 and going clockwise, the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Starting from the front of the motor, it goes 1-2-3-4-5-6. Is this correct?
The guy helping me took the #1(assuming we got the right diagram) spark plug out and felt while I bumped the key. He had me stop when he felt top dead center. I think that's what he called it. And then looked at the rotor and it was pointing at the #1 spot on the distributor cap. It was getting dark and starting to rain, so we called it quits.
Just to be sure, starting at #1 and going clockwise, the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Starting from the front of the motor, it goes 1-2-3-4-5-6. Is this correct?
The guy helping me took the #1(assuming we got the right diagram) spark plug out and felt while I bumped the key. He had me stop when he felt top dead center. I think that's what he called it. And then looked at the rotor and it was pointing at the #1 spot on the distributor cap. It was getting dark and starting to rain, so we called it quits.
#4
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
If the timing is out, how do you adjust it? I've read several places that the timing is not adjustable. I am hoping my friend knows all this stuff, but he won't be able to come out again until Wednesday. I was just seeing if I could get some info here also.
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
The timing is adjustable I personally haven't done it but you have to turn the distributor cap I believe I'm not 100% sure but you can look it up on google and I'm sure you'll find it. As for the mount I replaced mine myself and the new mount had one bolt in it already and had to put other in it to secure to frame and one going horizontal connecting to block.
#6
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Year: 1994
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Trying to look it up on Google is where I am finding that it is not adjustable. I will just wait til tomorrow to see what my friend has to say. This time we will start with more daylight and have a shelter in case of rain, so we should get it figured out. And we'll be where there's internet access in case we need it.
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#8
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
REMOVAL
Marking Distributor Housing (Typical Distributor)
Align Timing Marks
Align Oil Pump Gear Shaft
Distributor Installation
Rotor Alignment (Typical Distributor)
Marking Distributor Housing (Typical Distributor)
Align Timing Marks
- Disconnect the battery negative cable.
- On vehicle equipped with A/C, remove the electrical cooling fan and shroud assembly from the radiator. This will provide room to turn the engine with a socket and ratchet using the vibration damper bolt.
- Scribe a mark on the distributor housing below the left side of the number one spark plug wire post of the distributor cap to use as a reference for #1 cylinder firing position.
- Remove distributor cap.
- Turn the engine in a clockwise direction until the rotor is approaching the scribe mark on the distributor housing. Then slowly turn the engine until the timing mark on the crankshaft vibration damper lines up with zero on front cover timing scale.
- Align the trailing edge of the rotor blade with the mark scribed on the distributor housing.
- Remove distributor hold-down bolt and clamp.
- Remove the distributor from the engine.
Align Oil Pump Gear Shaft
Distributor Installation
Rotor Alignment (Typical Distributor)
- If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position.
- Install the rotor.
- Without engaging the distributor gear into the cam gear, position the distributor into the hole in the engine block. Be sure that the distributor gasket is installed.
- Visually line up the hold-down ear of the distributor housing with the hold-down clamp hole.
- Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
- Slide the distributor down into the block until it seats. Keep the hold-down ear aligned with the hold-down clamp bolt hole.
- The rotor should be in the 5 o'clock position with the trailing edge of the rotor blade lined up with the scribe mark in the distributor housing.
- Install the distributor hold-down clamp bolt and tighten 9.5-14 lb.ft. (13-19 Nm).
- Install the distributor cap and connect the distributor electrical connector.
Last edited by taxidave; 03-02-2011 at 02:07 PM.
#10
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The timing is adjustable I personally haven't done it but you have to turn the distributor cap I believe I'm not 100% sure but you can look it up on google and I'm sure you'll find it. As for the mount I replaced mine myself and the new mount had one bolt in it already and had to put other in it to secure to frame and one going horizontal connecting to block.
My guess is the distributor is clocked 180*, or something is not hooked up right.
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
The timing on an XJ 4.0L is NOT adjustable but conventional means (eg. rotating the distributor). It is electronically controlled by the PCM. It has a small amount of adjustment from within the PCM computer settings, but should never need to be done unless heavy modifications were made to the engine operation.
My guess is the distributor is clocked 180*, or something is not hooked up right.
My guess is the distributor is clocked 180*, or something is not hooked up right.
#14
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, rv cam, fresh rebuilt
Same thing happened to me, my distributor was one tooth off. Then I set it to TDC and installed it backwards(180 degrees off) and it backfired. I had to set it to TDC again cause I messed up again. Moral is, take your time and do it right the first time.These things can be frustrating because the timing is not adjustable. I would get a new dirtibutor and cap and rotor and maybe wires if they got ripped. Also make sure the slot in the distributor hole(oil pump) is around the 11 O'clock position, you can tirn it with a flat screwdriver. The motor mount will probably be easier with a second pair of hands and an air rachet willl save your life witht he motor mount screws. Good luck!
#15
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
We got the timing and all done thanks to the pictures and description posted by taxidave. I had to get a new distributor, the old one was broken. So I went ahead and got a new cap and rotor, coil, plugs and wires while I was at it along with a new air filter. Got the motor running great. Now I just need to get the old broken bolts out of the block so that I can put the new ones in with the motor mount. This looks like it may be difficult as I don't think I can get a drill in there easily.