Motor mount concerns
#1
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Motor mount concerns
2000 Jeep XJ, 4.0L, auto
Decided to try and switch motor mounts out since that is one of the important things that ought to be done. They seem fine, but I am just doing it for some peace of mind.
So I put the jack with a block of 2x4 wood between that and the bottom of the engine (oil pan) to take some pressure off the mounts. It takes me a bit to get the bolts out
of the driver side mount and when I finally get the through bolt going through the mount out, the whole engine moves and I thought I was done for, but instead the now-loose
mount caught and stopped it from tilting further.
So that's where I am at now. Is there something I am missing here? Because every YouTube video and even both Chilton and Haynes manuals I have mention nothing about
the engine tilting to the side like this.
I thought about trying ratchet strapping it to something, but I have nothing around that could possibly sustain the weight of the block.
Any ideas? I thought about maybe unbolting the transmission mount and putting a taller 2x4 on the small lip of the oil pan/block and then letting it rest some so it realigns? I'm not sure.
Decided to try and switch motor mounts out since that is one of the important things that ought to be done. They seem fine, but I am just doing it for some peace of mind.
So I put the jack with a block of 2x4 wood between that and the bottom of the engine (oil pan) to take some pressure off the mounts. It takes me a bit to get the bolts out
of the driver side mount and when I finally get the through bolt going through the mount out, the whole engine moves and I thought I was done for, but instead the now-loose
mount caught and stopped it from tilting further.
So that's where I am at now. Is there something I am missing here? Because every YouTube video and even both Chilton and Haynes manuals I have mention nothing about
the engine tilting to the side like this.
I thought about trying ratchet strapping it to something, but I have nothing around that could possibly sustain the weight of the block.
Any ideas? I thought about maybe unbolting the transmission mount and putting a taller 2x4 on the small lip of the oil pan/block and then letting it rest some so it realigns? I'm not sure.
#2
CF Veteran
See if this link helps. It's suggested that the trans mount be loosened when replacing the motor mounts.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rep...-first-248183/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rep...-first-248183/
#3
CF Veteran
I would just get one bolt through the mount and use the jack to lift or lower the engine until the other mount lines up. Shouldnt be a big deal.
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Year: 2001
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#5
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I know you said its sideway but it cant be that sideways unless your trans mount is that bad.... My point is to jack it up, or lower it down, until you can get either mount back in, which ever one seems easier. Once you get one in, you can raise or lower the engine until the other one lines up. It will straighten itself out when its level.
#6
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If I recall I never had to unbolt the trans to do motor mounts.
The goal is to lift the engine via the oil pan just enough to take pressure off the mounts and change them one at a time.
The goal is to lift the engine via the oil pan just enough to take pressure off the mounts and change them one at a time.
#7
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Year: 2001
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I know you said its sideway but it cant be that sideways unless your trans mount is that bad.... My point is to jack it up, or lower it down, until you can get either mount back in, which ever one seems easier. Once you get one in, you can raise or lower the engine until the other one lines up. It will straighten itself out when its level.
I guess I'll unbolt the trans mount from the crossmember tomorrow and see what happens.
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#8
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Trans mount is brand new, from Mopar, no less. It's sideways enough that I cant tilt it back, it's too heavy. It is resting on the unbolted mount, held in by the threads poking down through the frame. That's it.
This is all I did to loosen the bolts on the first mount. I took the through-bolt out and suddenly the engine tilts to that side. And NOWHERE can I find an explanation as to why it happened or what to do if it even does.
I guess I'll unbolt the trans mount from the crossmember tomorrow and see what happens.
This is all I did to loosen the bolts on the first mount. I took the through-bolt out and suddenly the engine tilts to that side. And NOWHERE can I find an explanation as to why it happened or what to do if it even does.
I guess I'll unbolt the trans mount from the crossmember tomorrow and see what happens.
#9
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Year: 2001
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If I had the money for one, but then, there is a bunch of steering and suspension parts in the way, anyway.
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L L6 PowerTech (stock)
You can use wooden boards to prop the oil pan about where the jack is now in height. This will free the jack to lift at a free corner of the oil pan on the lower side. Use a square of 2"*4" as a pad between the saddle of the jack and the corner of the oil pan. Have the boards supporting the engine run from one side of the oil pan to the other. That should be fine weight Wise to not crumple the oil pan as long as the transmission mount is still in play.
#11
Old fart with a wrench
You could use a comealong over the fender to the wheel to pull the engine back upright. In a pinch, use a Spanish windlass (a rope twisted with a piece of pipe) to do the same thing. Then move the jack.
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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in general, its best to have two jacks before doing engine mount jobs etc etc, for the exact reason that things can twist, or jam
therefore, if you cant loan one off a neighbour, (most cars have a jack), a cheap bottle jack is only about $20
therefore, if you cant loan one off a neighbour, (most cars have a jack), a cheap bottle jack is only about $20
#13
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Still doesn't explain why the engine would have twisted over unless the jack kicked out or he's parked on a grade. Motor mounts are one of the easiest jobs you can do...
#14
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Last edited by TheBoogieman; 08-02-2019 at 01:28 AM.
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I agree something is weird, maybe the OP has his one jack in the entirely wrong spot
anyway, here is a low tech cheap *** way to help out things under force like that
throw a wood beam across the fenders, make a loop of rope around the object you want pulled, twist up the rope with a screwdriver
this will exert amazing force, enough to lift an engine
One more thing..if I dont understand the force under which some part may be subjected, I actually draw a diagram with vector forces..until I do understand!
failing to do safety provisions can lead to injury or death
anyway, here is a low tech cheap *** way to help out things under force like that
throw a wood beam across the fenders, make a loop of rope around the object you want pulled, twist up the rope with a screwdriver
this will exert amazing force, enough to lift an engine
One more thing..if I dont understand the force under which some part may be subjected, I actually draw a diagram with vector forces..until I do understand!
failing to do safety provisions can lead to injury or death