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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:18 PM
  #406  
fallenknight308's Avatar
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From: The Dirty 530
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix I6
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Originally Posted by fallenknight308
Ok, I see ALOT of Questions, but few answers concerning the performance gain by using the ford #19's and the better fuel pressure reg, and rail.
On years: 88-90 (91-95 already have the proper pressure @3 bar)
So.....
I went and installed the 19's. they are the volvo ones #0-280-155-746
http://www.witchhunter.com/flowdatapix/b0280155746.jpg
when the fuel rail gets here I'll put that in and the regulator and then do a
write-up on the whole thing with pic's and on my build thread too!

So far I've already noticed an improvement it does not seem so "sluggish"
More to come!
Update:
Oops 91-95 still need FPR according to chart
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:24 PM
  #407  
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From: Virginia Beach by way of Michigan
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I put this on another injector thread, and hopefully it will answer some, if not many, of the questions on here. I have quite a bit of experience with the swap, as do a couple others on here, and from those I've talked with, this is pretty much the feeling of all of us.


- This is for everyone - you shouldn't see any change in MPG. What you gain from the swap is a smoother idle, quicker starting, and better throttle response. Sometimes, better MPG happens, but it's not normal. However, more fuel is allowed to flow through the 703's/710's as well as the 784's/789's if you don't reset your ECU, causing you to run rich, and therefore decreasing your MPG.
- For the best results, if you have a 89-98 XJ, you need the 703 Neon injectors, or you can get the 710 Ford injectors. If you have a 99-01, you need the 784 Neon injectors, or the 789 Ford injectors.
- I prefer the 703's/784's, but the Ford 710's/789's work too. I've had better results from the 784's I have now compared to the 789's I had before. That, and from what I've heard of other experiences, is why I prefer the Chrysler ones.
- 91-95's DO NOT need the FPR. You can swap it, but it's necessary. Doing the FPR swap will give a SLIGHTLY better result, but it's not worth the extra time IMO.

Hope this helps everyone!
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #408  
fallenknight308's Avatar
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From: The Dirty 530
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix I6
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Originally Posted by rainman
Review / Update
I'm bumping this up again because of what I just discovered.
Hopefully this will save us RENIX guys a headache
Firstly:
The 91-95 fuel rail is NOT a plug and play option for the older system!
The brackets are not the same, hell they don't even line up!
You would need to fab up some new ones (I am going to)
or do the manifold upgrade (a nightmare)
Because the newer intake manifold has a different casting/design.

Second:
I just went to check the #s on my old injectors and guess what?:
3956
They have BEEN running at the same output or lower than the ford 19's

SO:
Either coas is wrong, or those were the wrong injectors on there from the factory?
Arrgggg
I just wasted $100 on stuff I didn't need/cant use without major fab?

Coas: feel free to come back and tell me I'm wrong

Last edited by fallenknight308; Nov 29, 2010 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #409  
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From: Farmington WV
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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delete
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 08:47 PM
  #410  
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Originally Posted by j-rod
delete
read one post below the one you quoted. You'll see the difference
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 10:58 PM
  #411  
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 98
Model: Grand Cherokee
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I just installed the 703's but did not disconnect the bat to reset the computer...am I confused but won't the computer relearn for the change in 50 starts anyway?

I am also confused on the point that if by using an injector that flows less fuel than the factory ones why would this decrease your gas milage as I thought I was reading earlier?

So far I am happy with the easier starting and with the smoother idol
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 09:08 PM
  #412  
MISS4X4's Avatar
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From: Indio Desert, CA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Does anyone know if the 19# Ford 5.0 fuel injectors are a direct swap for my 89 4.0 L non HO Cherokee? Do I have to change the fuel rail or electrical connection or can I just plug and play????
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 03:54 PM
  #413  
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Originally Posted by MISS4X4
Does anyone know if the 19# Ford 5.0 fuel injectors are a direct swap for my 89 4.0 L non HO Cherokee? Do I have to change the fuel rail or electrical connection or can I just plug and play????
I believe they are plug and play.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 04:42 PM
  #414  
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From: Bloomfield, MI
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by gully369
I just installed the 703's but did not disconnect the bat to reset the computer...am I confused but won't the computer relearn for the change in 50 starts anyway?

I am also confused on the point that if by using an injector that flows less fuel than the factory ones why would this decrease your gas milage as I thought I was reading earlier?

So far I am happy with the easier starting and with the smoother idol
I just put the 703s in off a 95 Stratus and really don't see any difference but I am also wondering about the battery disconnect reset as I didn't do this as well.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 07:45 AM
  #415  
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by 19558077
but that still leaves which pound for my 00'. some say 19, some say 24??
i will just find some i think will work, which i believe are the 19's, and try them, they cant be too hard to change. any other info comes up let us know, thanks
If your goal is better gas dont bother installing anything.. it wont make aone bit of diffrence.. In fact I have brand new ones still in the truck getting worse gas..

The ONLy benefit might be smoother idle and better starting.. You can get that also buy buying a 28 buck rebuild kit for Siemens Deka injectors on ebay.. In facxt I have one and Im reinstalling stock injectors rebuilt once I feel like it.. in like months.. lol.. Dont bother with injector upgrade there is no real benefit unless your going to bore out the head..
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 07:49 AM
  #416  
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I get 12 mpg.. with upgrade 63mm throttle body, new exahust and XF3E for fuel injectors.. I wonder if i fouled out my plugs with seafoaming.. Not only that I have a HUGE air intake I made for it..

The truck snaps and is fast as hell.. gas is HORRIBLE!
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 10:30 AM
  #417  
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From: Middle Tennessee
Year: 1989 Laredo
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Engine: 4.0 ltr
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WOW! You guys are very PATIENT . Here is my delimma...
I have a 89 Cherokee 4.0 and all of a sudden (after a little stick up in a large mud hole) the jeep started running terrible. No power under a load, will sit and idle fine and will rev in park, with a little hesitation at 1/4 throttle then will open up. I pulled the fuel filter and replaced it...a bunch of muddy gas and debris came out...ran OK for about a week and now is back to worse than terrible. I checked all the vacuum lines and what not and drained the fuel filter again...no help. I am planning on dropping the fuel tank and cleaning it this weekend. I will also replace the new fuel filter.
My question is and why I am at this thread is do I need to replace the injectors or just clean the ones that are on there...if I need to replace the injectors which ones can I just plug in and go with...daily driver with some light wheelin.
It's funny I built the jeep but every time I drive I get stuck...so the Husband gets to drive most of the time...how's that .
Thanks for the help, you guys helped me build this jeep jeep...and I miss driving it ready for it to be fixed!!! HELP
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 12:18 PM
  #418  
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 98
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by gully369
I just installed the 703's but did not disconnect the bat to reset the computer...am I confused but won't the computer relearn for the change in 50 starts anyway?

I am also confused on the point that if by using an injector that flows less fuel than the factory ones why would this decrease your gas mileage as I thought I was reading in an earlier thread?

So far I am happy with the easier starting and with the smoother idol
Anyone have an explanation for this
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 03:16 PM
  #419  
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I'm about to give out several explanations, but I tend to be blunt about things. Please don't get offended by what or the way I say anything, if you get butthurt after this fair warning thats on you.

Originally Posted by buysellny
If your goal is better gas dont bother installing anything.. it wont make aone bit of diffrence.. In fact I have brand new ones still in the truck getting worse gas..

The ONLy benefit might be smoother idle and better starting.. You can get that also buy buying a 28 buck rebuild kit for Siemens Deka injectors on ebay.. In facxt I have one and Im reinstalling stock injectors rebuilt once I feel like it.. in like months.. lol.. Dont bother with injector upgrade there is no real benefit unless your going to bore out the head..
Nonsense, here's why:

The newer style injectors with 4 pintle holes are markedly more effective at vaporizing gasoline than the single hole injectors.

If you know anything about the physics of burning and how fire works, the material itself isn't what fuels the fire, its the vapor that actually burns. That goes for coal, wood, gasoline, and cotton. The solid materials have to vaporize in order to burn.

The reason that 4 hole injectors are more efficient than single hole injectors is because they more effectively vaporize the fuel by spraying a finer mist with more surface area for the fuel to vaporize. That means a more efficient burn of the fuel and thus a bit more energy used per given volume of fuel.

Originally Posted by buysellny
I get 12 mpg.. with upgrade 63mm throttle body, new exahust and XF3E for fuel injectors.. I wonder if i fouled out my plugs with seafoaming.. Not only that I have a HUGE air intake I made for it..

The truck snaps and is fast as hell.. gas is HORRIBLE!
The gas is horrible because you probably have a lead foot, that combined with a more efficient air-flow system means you're probably burning a lot more fuel. Seafoam of all things would not foul your plugs.

Originally Posted by toshalynne
WOW! You guys are very PATIENT . Here is my delimma...
I have a 89 Cherokee 4.0 and all of a sudden (after a little stick up in a large mud hole) the jeep started running terrible. No power under a load, will sit and idle fine and will rev in park, with a little hesitation at 1/4 throttle then will open up. I pulled the fuel filter and replaced it...a bunch of muddy gas and debris came out...ran OK for about a week and now is back to worse than terrible. I checked all the vacuum lines and what not and drained the fuel filter again...no help. I am planning on dropping the fuel tank and cleaning it this weekend. I will also replace the new fuel filter.
My question is and why I am at this thread is do I need to replace the injectors or just clean the ones that are on there...if I need to replace the injectors which ones can I just plug in and go with...daily driver with some light wheelin.
It's funny I built the jeep but every time I drive I get stuck...so the Husband gets to drive most of the time...how's that .
Thanks for the help, you guys helped me build this jeep jeep...and I miss driving it ready for it to be fixed!!! HELP
You shouldn't need to swap injectors if you always had a fuel filter in it.

If I had to guess, I'd say it sounds like you got water into your distributor.

It could also be fuel system related, but I doubt that.

Last edited by ZachsXJ; Dec 31, 2010 at 11:46 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 09:31 AM
  #420  
buysellny's Avatar
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
I'm about to give out several explanations, but I tend to be blunt about things. Please don't get offended by what or the way I say anything, if you get butthurt after this fair warning thats on you.



Nonsense, here's why:

The newer style injectors with 4 pintle holes are markedly more effective at vaporizing gasoline than the single hole injectors.

(thats why Chrysler is still using single hole? Heres a reality check: After months of research and questioning injector rebuilders they say with Jeeps 4 hole is no better then single hole because fuel sits in ready mode in the cylander.. I guess chrysler engineers are morons?

If you know anything about the physics of burning and how fire works, the material itself isn't what fuels the fire, its the vapor that actually burns. That goes for coal, wood, gasoline, and cotton. The solid materials have to vaporize in order to burn.

(you need to ask rebuilders. I have spoken with more then 6 with a combined 100 years of rebuild experience and they all say the benifit is negligable and that teh head/manifold design of the 4.0L works fine as is and that rebuilt stock injectors will run the truck exactly like its suppose to. )

The reason that 4 hole injectors are more efficient than single hole injectors is because they more effectively vaporize the fuel by spraying a finer mist with more surface area for the fuel to vaporize. That means a more efficient burn of the fuel and thus a bit more energy used per given volume of fuel.
(really?? Comon man we already have heard this..)


The gas is horrible because you probably have a lead foot, that combined with a more efficient air-flow system means you're probably burning a lot more fuel. Seafoam of all things would not foul your plugs.

(Seafoam fouls the plugs FOR CERTIAN if done more then once.. I have a lead foot.. Either way, all i got from Brand New Injectors XF3E was better idol. Gas mileage went down.. Im reinstalling rebuilt stocks..



You shouldn't need to swap injectors if you always had a fuel filter in it.

If I had to guess, I'd say it sounds like you got water into your distributor.

It could also be fuel system related, but I doubt that.
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