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Metal Thread on Lower Ball Joint XJ 1993

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Old May 15, 2022 | 01:51 PM
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Default Metal Thread on Lower Ball Joint XJ 1993

Hey guys,

Sorry. New user here. I explored the search function but struggled finding anything. I'm currently doing the 13 piece fron suspension kit from TRQ and I've removed my ball joints, but I'm stumped at this lower ball joint. Theres a metal threading that is larger on the stud of the lower ball joint, which will prevent the spindle from going back on. Any ideas what this is used for / how to take it off / a solution?

Much thanks, pics below

UPDATE: My guess is that these ball joints just wont work for my 1993 and they're meant for another year. A little concerning, hoping the tie rod and track bar are fine. THe kit I got https://www.1aauto.com/jeep-cherokee...roduct-reviews which states gauranteed to fit 1993 jeep cherokee. not sure if comanche only however??

lower and upper ball joints TRQ

lower ball joint with extra threading

lower upper ball joints TRQ

Last edited by crowXJ; May 15, 2022 at 03:25 PM.
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Old May 15, 2022 | 04:12 PM
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From: San Mateo, CA
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Remove the "metal thread". there might be the correct taper hidden under it, if so its good, if not, buy another that is correct.

good luck

lettuce no!
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Old May 15, 2022 | 08:22 PM
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Year: 1988
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There will be a taper under that split ring. Not certain it will be the correct taper though. There are XJs configured with that split ring that have an adjustment to set the distance between the upper and lower ball joints. If you removed your old lower ball joints and they didn't have split threads, your XJ is not. Take the split thread off and compare the taper of the new ball joint to the old. You can use the split thread to gauge if the tapers are the same.
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Old May 16, 2022 | 12:30 AM
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So I ended going to my local parts store and picking up Moogs for both upper and lower. I am not sure how to get the metal split ring off, wrenched at it for a good 30 minutes trying to get it off before I decided it's just on there. It came on there without me putting it on and I see that it comes seperate someties with others. I got both the ball joints done on the drivers side, but the moog castle nut is 33mm and I only have a 32mm so I can't torque it and finish it tonight. My other upper ball joint unfortunately has a crack in the boot, So when I have to go get that replaced at the local parts store. Once I finish the ball joints, I can't imagine the track bar or tie rod to be much of a problem.

Tip for anyone doing ball joints on an XJ that I wish I knew going into it. When you rent out the ball joint press, make sure to rent out an adapter set along with it. Ball joint press is no fun when your using sockets and other bits of metal instead of the proper adapters. But on that side note - if you didnt - dont be afraid to use a socket to push the ball joints out. Also, don't be afraid to hammer your spindle. It can take a beating - watch videos of others hitting it and youll see. The videos on youtube mostly show jeeps on lifts so if your doing it in your driveway press the upper joint out first with the thread of the press screwing down from up and your adapter on the bottom pushing up on the ball joint stud. (If your ball joint stud fell out like mine - use a socket to get the necessary leverage on the ball joint.) Its a good idea to get your diff fluid topped off afterwards as well.

I'll post progress pics tomorrow of both sides of my jeep and also any other tips or problems I run into and the solutions I used to solve it as a fir
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Old May 16, 2022 | 09:53 AM
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That is really odd that the split thread won't come off. There is a spanner socket that is used to remove it and install it into the spindle. It should just slide off the ball joint's taper. On the install you torque it in to a specified value while ensuring the force required to turn the spindle side to side (like with a fish scale) remains under a specified number of pounds. With it being stuck on there, it seems that it was not only the wrong part for your vehicle, but damaged as well.
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