Been fixing up an 88 MJ and looking around for a parts rig - figured I'd strip stuff off I want an push it along to the next guy.
Found a same year match XJ - this one is a two door Laredo 4.0 5 spd 4x4
Now thinking might fix this one up - super straight, no rust, motor seems very strong and sounds right (no ticking/clunking) needs paint and some interior refresh (headliner) and have few tech questions:
1. Seller threw in a lift kit with the deal (see pic) the box the coil springs are in say Rubicon Express, there are four Billstien shocks, shackles and leaf springs - but have no idea how high this kit will push the rig - easy way to check? Didn't see any markings on the leafs but didn't look too close - I am good with a couple inch lift but don't really want 5" or something that really messes with the steering geometry and have to redo all the brake lines...I guess I can measure the coils or look up the part number and see how much I am looking at compared to stock.
2. I was able to run 31" tires on the MJ with a puck & Shackle lift and WJ LCA's - same with the XJ? Or better off with 30"?
3. Brake is "sticky" - weird deal, sometimes when you push on the brakes they stick or drag but you can put your foot under the brake pedal an un-stick them by pulling on the pedal - this HAS to be the brake booster or something wrong with the brake pedal itself right? No way you and un-stick a caliper by pulling up on the brake pedal.....since this is an 88 and same basic set up as the MJ, should do the WJ booster upgrade yes?
4. BA 10 5 speed - PO says he did a clutch job - no details if he did it himself and/or what was done, looks like a new master cylinder...anyway, after driving it 50 miles home on the freeway found it almost impossible to shift into any gear - shut it off and you can get in the gears, but not while it was running - no grinding or anything, just couldn't finagle it into gear - next morning while cold it shifted just fine, didn't warm it up enough to replicate the problem. Not sure if something is lined up wrong or what - haven't had any problems with the BA10 on the MJ so not sure if this is failure mode or what.
5. Crusiers tips mostly all the same for the XJ as MJ I presume - will get started on that process firs, can see ALL the grounds need to be replaced already.
Clock says 125,000 miles - think that may be accurate, does not look to have been messed with much
I'd guess the lift to be 0-2", but the easiest way to figure it out would be to look at the part numbers on the shocks (or coils if the box label is intact) and backtrack.
The shocks will be listed with a range, like 2-3" or 4-5". That's assuming the P.O. purchased the shocks to go with the rest of the parts for the lift.
It's definitely NOT a 4 or 5" lift, the leaf springs are far too flat. Visually, I wouldn't think twice if you told me the ones in the picture were stock height.
I agree with PatHenry, probably a 2 inch lift, but I would verify the shocks before you do any install work. Worst case scenario, you can sell those parts to some other Jeep owner and buy the parts you want. It's better to do it the way you want the first time, than have to do it again.
With a good scrub for the interior, and a coat of paint, that should clean up pretty good. These trucks are getting harder and harder to find in original condition.
If I may throw my .02 cents in. Try to keep it close to original, or original appearing. Too many people start cutting fenders and etc. to fit 33" tires on a truck that never goes off road. If you throw an "upcountry" style lift on it with some 235/75R15, or even 30x9.5R15 tires, it will look fantastic, still handle well on road, and be halfway decent off road.
Stumbled across another two door 88 XJ - just got that black one and was not looking for another, but this one was available local, cheap and is really really clean - no dents, no rust, clean interior.
Wife gets this one - quick paint job, new headliner and a few other odds n ends and it is good to go.
Thinking about going the wheeler route for the black one...
I wish I could find rust free examples like that around here.
They don't salt the roads up here in Winter so don't see as much rust - different story over on the coast where the salt air from the Pacific causes problems and I think in the last few years they have started salting some roads mostly in the Seattle metro area but for the most part, just not same rust issues.
Paid my way through the UW back in the '80's by buying up old Chevy's and painting them - had a buddy whose dad set up a spray booth in their garage - me, him and my brothers probably painted 30 cars in that booth over a 4 year period - mostly Chevelles, Novas and a few El Caminos - (the camaros were too expensive even back then) - would buy those old cars for around $1000 and paint em factory color - used a single stage paint - Imron I think, stuff was awesome but illegal to use in Automotive painting now I think - got good at prep work, block sanding and bondo. Steam clean the motors and interior, paint em and advertise in the national Old Car trader - we'd make anywhere from $2000-$4000 per car.
88twodoor4x4 - Your story sounds kind of like mine. I have an '88 MJ too. A few years ago I found what I thought was a parts car for it, a second '88 MJ that was only a month apart and nearly identical. When I dragged it home I just couldn't do it. It was way too good to part out. I swapped out some of the parts and put them on my original MJ that was already in great shape. I got a sport bar from it, excellent seats and some other things. I replaced most of those bits and moved the second MJ off to another guy. I posted it on Kijiji and it sold in 45 minutes. I also have a '89 2 dr. XJ. I'm sure you'll agree, an MJ & XJ 2 dr. is a nice combination. Your red one looks great!
I haven't thought about "Imron" in decades! I painted with it too back then. It was the best but pretty toxic stuff. DuPont Imron was a polyurethane enamel. Very glossy and tough as nails. Not a lot of colour choice though if I remember. I painted a lot of black parts with it, mostly engine bay items on restorations, never a complete car. I painted cars with DuPont Centari which was an acrylic enamel, easier to use but still a nice paint.
I haven't thought about "Imron" in decades! I painted with it too back then. It was the best but pretty toxic stuff. DuPont Imron was a polyurethane enamel. Very glossy and tough as nails. Not a lot of colour choice though if I remember. I painted a lot of black parts with it, mostly engine bay items on restorations, never a complete car. I painted cars with DuPont Centari which was an acrylic enamel, easier to use but still a nice paint.[/QUOTE]
Yep - that's the stuff, wore like iron and great coverage - I remember being able to get a blue color that was pretty close to Marina blue used in the 60's chevys and also the Lemans Blue - Red and black were available but not exact matches of course - I think we had to get the stuff pre-mixed basically ready to shoot out of the can. Orange peel was a problem with Imron but not deal breaker as I recall. Stuff is super toxic - even back then we wore the best repsirators we could get with fresh cartridges - not the paper masks like we would use with laquer - thought that was why you couldn't get it sprayed on cars anymore - last car I did was an an RX7 I had shot Lemans Blue by a local shop - they agreed to let me supply the paint and were pissed when I showed up with Imron - said they would never do it again.
Did have a Harvest Gold Chevelle that we had a hell of a time trying to paint and stay close to factory color (to avoid dealing with door jams & under hood) - think we finally caved and used a Sikkens base coat clear coat - spent a lot of time sanding between coarts.
Really nice finds. You are very lucky to keep finding these. What I find by my is usually rusted, rotted out and not running, and they want a grand for it.
I would definitely keep the red one stock, or maybe just a mild upcountry style lift.
The black one could be modded a bit, since the paint is baked and it has some wear on it. A 3" lift with 31 inch tires (I think they would clear) would look pretty good, especially with the factory flares and a different set of wheels.
I agree with Spencer, keep them stock, or close to stock. Mods are cool, but when I see people cutting fenders, gutting mint interiors, it drives me crazy. If you found one that had no interior and was rusty, then go nuts. That's just my opinion, I could be wrong.
Bottom line, they are your trucks, and we look forward to helping and watching you along your build.
