I'm trying to install a '01 Max-cool radiator (MOPAR 5191929AA) in my '98. The upper tie bar needs to be different to allow me to use this radiator. On the new radiator there is nothing on the plastic end tanks so I can bolt the tie bar to it. Which makes it so I can't bolt the AC condenser to the radiator. Also if I ran the bushings off the posts on the radiator I'm not able to even use the tie bar (that's where the bushings bolted to on my old setup). I'm also finding the radiator is about 3/8" offset to that tie bar.

I'm looking to find out which parts I need to run this radiator. It's much cheaper than all the other OEM radiators and it gives you a 2 row upgrade. I posted else where and someone with a '00 had the same design as my stock setup. So I'm thinking it's a tow package (max-cool) setup I need.

I could just make some brackets so i can bolt the AC condenser to the radiator and eliminate that panel. However with the radiator being slightly offset I'd be putting a large side load on the radiator bushings.




I have the upper tie bar lying on top of my old radiator.

 

What in the world is a "2 row upgrade"?


.....


Wait....


Oh, no!


You aren't one of those people who thinks, "more rows equals more cooling", are you????

 

More surface area to dissipate the heat. I can see if you get too deep of a radiator you will lose cooling efficiency, because you're losing airflow due to the extra resistance. I also have the ZJ radiator fan clutch that is also covered.

If my thinking is soo incorrect.. Why would Jeep waste time and money engineering to produce the max cool radiator for the vehicles equipped with the tow package? This is why I went with the OEM 2 row unit opposed to aftermarket 3 rows. That and it's near 60% cheaper than the orignal unit for my Jeep.

 

It's not nearly that simple. There are many other factors.

 

For the record, I'm not trying to fix an overheating issue.

I'm aware of everything involved for a efficient system.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/


Moving on though.. Still want to figure out which factory parts are needed to run this radiator. Just saw a '00 with a tow package running the same setup as my '98.

 

Somebody around here demonstrated the math to show that more rows don't actually give you more surface area than a single row radiator of the same thickness. It's counter-intuitive.

 

In this picture you can see how a single row can be more effective than two, flowing more coolant, higher coolant capacity, and more airflow over tubes. Also the larger passages of single-row are less prone to clogging from sediment.

Since the allowable thickness of the radiator is limited in the XJ, additional rows generally means smaller passages. When buying a 2-row radiator, compare thickness dimensions. Cheap ones are thin and the passages are smaller to make 2-rows. Better quality will have a thicker core and larger passages.

 

Nevermind

 

A new OEM radiator (for a 98) from AutoZone is about $100 and works fine if the rest of the system is in good shape will cool just fine.

 

The correct parts that actually fit = priceless.

 

I'm giving up on the radiator. The Jeep parts guy can't seem to come up with an answer. I'm guessing it's for a 4.0/diesel w/o AC and auto trans.

Just trying to find a good option for those who want a upgrade OEM Mopar option.

 

Max-cool seems to have a thicker core. The following thread may help, or it may create more confusion; https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/max...174481/index2/

 

http://www.caparadiator.com/aluminumvscopper.html

For those whom enjoy a short read. You can also peruse his radiators.

I really wish I had the time to modify- start from scratch- my rad support, I go with a completely different radiator than stock.

The problem with XJ/MJ cooling is airflow.

As much as you people claim the opposite, the factory fan/fans suck ***, not air.

 

The best thing that I did for my properly functioning stock cooling system is install a heavy duty fan clutch that moves more air at lower vehicle speeds. Also made sure all fins (condenser and radiator) and air passages are clear of debris, sand and bugs and that fins are not bent.
Edit: the HD fan clutch was installed for more stable temps when offroading, mainly beach driving in soft sand.