i would like to put on manual locking hubs. i have a 95 xj. with the of coarse dana 30! would i need a conversion kit or just the hubs? and i how to would be great if anyone knows of one! im gonna have the axle off for a lift and i would like to get some gas mileage back.
oh haha forgot, ive got a part time t-case!

 

Warn make a kit. Major bucks. It also uses the Ford Ranger hub, which is not very strong. If you replace the knuckle, spindle, stub shaft etc. from 70s CJ you can do it but you will have two different bolt patterns.

 

http://www.milemarker.com/products/hubs.html

with just one of these(well a pair of these) could i get the job done?
probably the streetmasters

 

no, you need a whole new spindle,stub axle as well. it replaces the unit bearings with serviceable races.... lots of parts in the warn kit to replace.

 

I was also thinking of doing this so I could add a mini spool in the front end and unlock the hubs when on the street. Does anyone know of a doner front axle that will switch without too much hassle.

 

Spools in the front are a bad idea.....always.

 

the only thing that will switch over is the warn kit. even then you gotta get rotors machined to fit new outer hub.... lots of work for little return. been there done that.

just stay with the unit bearings and get a ratchet type locker... gas mileage will not improve with manual hubs.

 

Ok, here it goes. This is really going to show my "newbieness". What is the benefit of having locked front hubs. What is the condition if they are not locked? Does locking the hubs make both wheels have traction without having a locked diff? or inversely when the hubs are not locked, having each wheel turn independently with a locked diff? I've just heard of people locking their hubs to get more traction.

 

ok lets say you have locking hubs, you must lock them to have 4wd. they bind the wheel to the axle so it will spin with input from the drive shaft through the diff.

make sense?

drive shaft spins the diff. if diff is locked both axles spin, if not least resistant wheel spins.

D30 hubs are always "locked" by way of being splined to the axle.

 

Starting to make sense. So if I have a vehicle with locking hubs that are not locked and I put it in 4wd the front wheels will not turn at all? Sorry for my ignorance.

 

they will still roll, but wont receive power from axles...

 

So why would you ever unlock the hubs, as opposed to just taking it out of 4WD? Less driveline wear forward of the TC?

 

Saves gas mileage, and I'd rather have a manual locking unit. Just grew up on them, like them better.

 

basicly yes, less spinning parts to wear.

you would unlock for on road driving. so axles wouldnt be spinning as well as drive shaft.

 

Manual hubs were the norm back when all transfer cases had nothing but gears in them. They were a gas milage maker, saving 1-2 mpg. The change in design to chain drive transfer cases and the convenience they offered of just pulling the lever and having it engage did away with the hubs. Also, production costs were reduces with the unit bearing as opposed to a spindle, hub and two bearings and races and seal. I like hubs and am going back to them. What a lot of guys used to do is run lockers or welded front ends and unlock the hubs for street use. This means no 4WD in the snow or anything else. It works, but is a pain in the neck. I would not recommend this.