So today went to put up windows and driver window won't go up. Started playing around with all other switches and everything works except the lock switch won't lock but will unlock and driver window won't do anything.

I replaced the window regulator/motor about a year ago so I don't think it's that.

It's always had the intermittent lock switch problem where the passenger switch won't work unless you wiggle around the lock switch.

I'm horrible with wiring and testing so any help and guidance would be great it's a 99 XJ

Well got the window up with battery charger so can definitely rule out motor.

Got the main power switch opened up and cleaned the contacts that didn't help.

All wires look good so guessing just gonna drop $70 bucks on new switch from RockAuto and hope that does the trick.

Anybody got a power window/lock wiring diagram for a 99 4dr?

All I got is this crappy Haynes manual and it doesn't seem to be right.

On my 96 had the door lock issue and then window wouldn't work. Found the the wires were breaking between door and door frame from opening and closing the door.Had to splice 6 wires. Was also the cause of the speaker not working in drives door.

Really guess I'll have to keep digging before getting a switch cause that's the exact problems I'm having thanks for the info though.

That's all I've been able to find on here is everything about it being wires just thought since I removed the rubber boots and the sleeve over the wires looked Ok and not cracked that the wires would be Ok guess I'll have to get that cover off the wires and do some more inspecting.

PO must have been having problems with it to cause when I removed door panel last year to replace window regulator there was no speaker so this time having panel off to try and figure out this switch thought I would hook up a speaker I knew worked and nothing.

Know where to find a wire diagram?

I think all the wires were different size and colors so was easy. I took the door panel off and unhooked all the wires to all the switches. In side under the dash on the left side i took the kick panel off and there is a big plug that goes to all the wires in the door. I pulled all the wires from the door and the plug through the door frame so i could get the wires where I could splice them . I just put the wires back together with butt connectors and put it all back the way it came out.

So got this wiring harness all the way out and only the 2 speaker wires look bad would that affect the window and lock switch though?

most of mine were broken inside the insulation and some of them were still working. Check where they bend when you close the door.

Well if the insulation your talking about is the kinda mesh stuff Velcro around the bundle of wires I have that off and all the electrical and friction tap off the whole harness and only visibly damaged wires are the speaker wires

The insulation is the plastic around each wire. The copper wire inside was broken but the insulation around the copper was still intact.

It is not uncommon for the connectors to wiggle themselves loose if they have been messed with in the past and had the locking thing break. My back passenger window didn't work and when I took off the panel I could see that the connector was still connected, but wiggled loose enough to not contact. Sometimes it is just that simple.

I was wondering if that's what you meant was the insulation for each individual wire.

How were you able to tell which wires were broke and where and how much to splice in?

All the broken wires were at the same spot. Between the door and the door frame where they bend when opening and closing the door.I could pull on the wires and the insulation would stretch gaping the wire. I just used a butt connector at each break not adding any wire. It made a big bundle of connectors but they fit easily inside the rubber flex tube.I may have to back in the future and splice some new wire in but it has been a year and no problems yet.

Well I finally found a little time to try and figure this window switch problem out so I tested continuity with driver door wiring harness and all wires seem to check out.

Should all the terminals in the 3 plugs in the driver kick panel show 12V with key on?

Anybody?

Ended up being motor again thankfully AAP exchanged it out for free