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Lugnuts and aluminum wheels

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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 02:57 PM
  #31  
Dan91's Avatar
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From: Williston, North Dakota
Year: 1999
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Just another bit of info on steel vs aluminum. Within their respective load limits steel has an indefinite life but aluminum wears out.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 04:34 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by CAEMI
There are millions of aluminum wheels out there. Tens of millions. I know this is a possible problem, but I'd check and make sure you have the correct type of lugnut.

Aluminum wheels use a tapered nut that seats into a tapered recess. As the wheel heats and cools and rotates, the lugnut is designed to tighten. Make sure you do NOT use a flat washer and a tapered nut OR use a flat bottomed nut either with washer or without. Use only tapered nuts with tapered wheel holes. If your wheels use flat bottom nuts or washers, I'll bet dollars to donuts that the torque spec is 120+ pounds...maybe even 140.

All this I learned two weeks ago when I mounted a set of American Racing Outlaw II's on my XJ and the local tire shop sold me new lugnuts for $20...the education was free. And the nuts were machined and chromed...not the cheapo ones with the chrome jacket.

Those were the only type i have ever used.... I had these wheels on my 96 xj, then totaled it and put them on this one and thats when I started havin probs.... Bought new lug nuts/studs and replaced all and have still had problems.... havent had problems in about the past 8 months tho, so I think I got it fixed....
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 04:37 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by EMAXX620
I just emailed american racing about this, ill post what i get back

me 2.... im HIGHLY interested... the wheels on mine are amr's...
I'd like to know what the heck the deal is...
Thanks~Paul
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 06:20 PM
  #34  
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From: Clover, S.C.
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Just checked mine & sho-nuff, a few were not "all the way tight"!


Thanks for posting this thread, O/P you may have saved a few lives by doing it.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:38 PM
  #35  
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Year: 1998
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I have checked mine in the past three weeks and on the first 2 weeks some were a little loose and then on the 3rd they have been good but I still check them 1 to 2 times a month do to them being aluminum.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:49 PM
  #36  
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I have read the entire post and agree that wheels should be torqued to spes and retorqued after 50 - 100 miles, a couple of other factors (we see this alot around here) corrosion at the hub flange, back side of the rim. make sure all is clean and free of rust. Have a good look at the taper on the lug nuts and the taper on the rim. (especially with people who run steelies for winter and allum for summer and use the same oe stock nut) the nuts will actually get a groove worn into the taper from the steel rim.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 07:29 AM
  #37  
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From: Detroit, MI
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by captainwoot
Have a good look at the taper on the lug nuts and the taper on the rim. (especially with people who run steelies for winter and allum for summer and use the same oe stock nut) the nuts will actually get a groove worn into the taper from the steel rim.
I have seen this, too, and forgotten about it. It makes sense that a lugnut could loose grip if damaged this way.

All this has me thinking...I'm getting out the torque wrench tonight.
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 02:11 PM
  #38  
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From: Bristol,Pa
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Originally Posted by captainwoot
I have read the entire post and agree that wheels should be torqued to spes and retorqued after 50 - 100 miles, a couple of other factors (we see this alot around here) corrosion at the hub flange, back side of the rim. make sure all is clean and free of rust. Have a good look at the taper on the lug nuts and the taper on the rim. (especially with people who run steelies for winter and allum for summer and use the same oe stock nut) the nuts will actually get a groove worn into the taper from the steel rim.

Good point.. i checked a few and one had the groove. I'll be buying all new lugnuts before i head west in a few weeks.

So i replaced the studs that broke, the others were not damaged. Installed new lugnuts and took a 70 mile drive to my buds yesterday. First 26 miles are on Turnpike, i pulled over at 10 and 20 miles in and checked my lugnuts... all were tight still. Checked again at his place and all was well. One the way home i stopped just once and again all still tight.

I guess i didnt have them tight enough when i had the axle apart recently.
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #39  
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still havent gotten contacted back, maybe they wont email me back, who knows. I checked mine few days ago and all seemed tight, but tightened like 1/16th of a turn. Probably nothing out of the ordinary. Looks like ill be getting all new lugs soon though as the PO had 3 different style lugnuts on it along with a missing stud which i fixed a looong time ago.
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 03:11 PM
  #40  
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From: corpus christi, texas
Year: 1999
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i tighten till i cannot turn them anymore and always have on all rims types. even when i was racing bmws and running aluminum wheels. i have never had a lug come loose. and i ran multiple rims and tire combos on the bmws with no issue. i think its the low torque that is called for when you install wheels with a torque wrench. i know i am going over 120 ft lbs when i install on my own.
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 01:01 AM
  #41  
_StationWagon_'s Avatar
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I hear that over-tightening lug nuts can cause the rotors or drums to warp.
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