swanson

So I'm asking an opinion question here, really.

Decided I'm gonna change the bushings for both my upper and lower control arms. Been meaning to do it for awhile but time/work prohibited it. Anyways, I've got new upper control arms and bushings, and new lower bushings (local auto parts couldn't get new lowers in for a month, grabbed the bushings - control arms themselves look fine).

Basically I've been searching around on how to get these bushings out. Lower ones, consensus seems to be either torching them and melting them, or using a press to get them out. Upper ones came with bearings installed, apart from the one on the axle.

I've got a torch, I'd just rather not use it (me and flame isn't ever a good idea). But I don't have a press. I do, however, have a u-joint C clamp (or whatever that's actually called). Would that work to get them out, if I used a large enough socket for the bushing to slide into, or would the torch make more sense?

crimsondragon

Don't believe upper arms have bearings. They're the same part number, axle or frame side. Torch is usually my weapon of choice, then cutting the steel liner and hammering the rest out. Press makes everything easier but need at least 10 tons. I've destroyed my friend's 6 ton trying to press them out. Or bring the arms to a shop and have them press it out and press in new ones. Shouldn't cost more than $40.

swanson

Ahh sorry. Meant bushings, minor brain fart. Alright well thanks, I'll find out tomorrow when I do them. Might just have to get a buddy to torch them (me and fire really don't play well)

SG Mason

I did the drivers side upper and lower bushings on mine last week, doing the passenger side tomorrow. I burned the bushings out of the sleeves and then bent/hammered out the sleeves. If you are worried about using fire I have heard that you can drill the rubber part of the bushing out, then do the same hammer and bend to remove the sleeve. If you change your mind about fire, just take the lower control arm out and burn out the bushings in a safe place. Axle end of the uppers you can't do that I used a body steel heat shield and a little rock wool to keep the heat away from things that could melt.

The big trick is to get the metal inner part out before trying to get the rest of the bushing out. I had the lower and frame end of the DS finished in no time. the axle side upper was a pain in the .... PS should be easier since the mount is much thinner material

I used a to put the new bushings in.

swanson

Alright, so another question.
Started on them today, got the lower on the passenger side off easily enough. Ended up having to torch the bushings, but didn't do too badly.

But the upper, it's been a pain in my ***. The bolt where it connects to the frame refuses to budge. Nut is stripped, and the bolt is stripped. Liberal use of heat and PB blaster did nothing. Managed to get the axle side bolt out easily enough, though.

So here's the problem. The bushing on the upper control arm isn't terrible, could use replacing but will last for awhile longer. But I have the parts, and I'd rather do it now. Cutting the nut off was my first idea, but there's no room to get a punch in there to pound it out.

Advice? Should I leave it, and do the other side? I'd like to do it, but, well... already frustrated by my lack of progress today.

Jeep Driver

For the cost of arms vs bushings..........can't believe you did not just buy new arms?

Destroy the arm and cut it out....from the inside of the mount, sawzall...grinder with cut wheel, whatever it takes.

swanson

I bought new uppers, not lowers. Didn't buy the lowers because they would take a month to get in and by then I wouldn't have access to my shop to do them. Lowers were easy to get out as is.

Jeep Driver

Virtually everything I order from Summit is 2 days to my door. Rockauto is usually 4 days. NAPA is next day or same day.


.......etc...............



I have no idea where you are at that it takes that long.



You still need to get it out....whatever it takes.

swanson

In a small town that's pretty far from any major city. I don't buy most parts online, save my purchases for the NAPA in town so they get the money and stay in business.

Alright, well I'll take another look at it tomorrow and see if I can't get it off.

SG Mason

The bolt on the frame side is a tab bolt if it is original. The tab rotates around and hits the frame and stops it from moving. If the nut is rounded out get a set of stripped nut removers. They work like a charm most of the time. Another option is a nut splitter it will split the nut on one side and open it up enough that you can normally spin them off by hand. I had to split the nuts on the exhaust of my Stealth.

I did the PS on mine today, had to hit he upper control arm frame nut with some heat to get it to move. but once it was turning it came right off. It is a 15mm nut on the uppers here in Canada BTW

swanson

Thanks, I'll look into those, hopefully the NAPA in town has one.

MtnGoat

THose bushings are easy to R&R. Even easier if the control arm is out of the car.
Biggest chore is getting the bolts back in. A real PITA.

Good choice about keeping your money local. Most city boys don't get it.

67 GMC

I would just buy the arms. I'm not a city boy but time is money-by the time you've driven around getting guys to push out bushings, wreck a press, light the truck on fire etc, you will be further ahead with new arms.

Also, those NAPAs are meant to keep the pro-garage's parts in stock for new vehicles-They don't care about driveway do-it-yourselfers working on old Jeeps. My experience with small local parts places are that they look up your part, say they don't have it but can get it in next week with their truck order, it will cost 40% more than Rock Auto or Summit racing and it's often the wrong part when it arrives.
Just my $0.02.

swanson

You're kinda missing my point. The nearest city is an hours drive away from me, ordering anything online usually takes awhile because it has to clear customs, and it costs as much as just getting the parts from my NAPA. And my NAPA has been owned by the same family for 40 years; they've known me since I was kid just starting to turn wrenches. They've been good to us, and I'd rather give my money to them.

And either way, the control arm I'm having a problem with is the one I do have a replacement for. The lowers were no problem.

SG Mason

Really? Mine must have been an oddity, because everything lined up perfectly except one and it was only out about a 1/4"

Customs? You must be another Canadian I am about an hour from the nearest real city too, but I have smaller cities about 30 minutes either side of the little town I live in. I use NAPA often because I have a family member working there and get a deal. I also have a 4x4 specialty shop not too far away that I like too.