cruiser54

Really?

The starter is on the OPPOSITE side of the engine from the exhaust manifold. .

bdcontraplayr

No, its from the brake booster going into the master cylinder. The vacuum line going from the manifold into the booster is fine. I think the diaphragm is bad. But it runs crappy still. There is a HUGE leak coming from it, like a lot of air.

bdcontraplayr

So I found and installed a new brake booster. Its from a 91' cherokee, but needed a bit of modification to get the brake light senor to work. I was thinking of installing the upgrade booster from a Grand Cherokee, but I don't really have the time or tools to do so. (I now need to bleed and change the brake fluid)

Started it up and it seem to run fine. But once I turned it off, couldn't get into start back up... Great! I feel like I'm back at square one. The only thing its doing now is the rpms are slowly climbing. Once it gets to a certain point, I turn it off, but I am immediately able to start it right back up. Once it's started up again, the rpms are stuck at ~3000 at an idle. So maybe eliminating the vacuum problem made sit show something is up with my IAC. Its not new, but on I pulled off another from a yard when all this crap started going down. It seemed to be in better shape than the one that was originally on when I got it. Maybe the heat is getting to it because that SOB was hot to the touch! I'm just thinking out loud.

Any input would be awesome.

DFlintstone

...I'd check the CPS output since it's so easy. (anytime it's not starting)

cruiser54

I wonder if someone monkeyed with the base setting on the throttle body. Post 14.

bdcontraplayr

There's suppose to be a gasket on the bottom of the throttle body? I didn't see a gasket when I cleaned it.

cruiser54

Between the TB and intake manifold......

bdcontraplayr

OK, I'm going to check it again in the morning. I must gave missed it

bdcontraplayr

So I calibrated the butterfly valve for the so it sits closed, it was open a little bit, but not huge.

The problem still exist. Now it seems to only happen after I open up on the throttle and release, and immediately open the throttle back up. If I let it sit and the rpms figure out where they need to be (boggs down once the throttle is released) I can rev it up no problem. I'm thinking the IAC or something sending the signal to it is where my problem lies

cruiser54

Could be a sluggish IAC.

bdcontraplayr

So I replaced the IAC, I figured it wouldn't really hurt to try. But the same issue persist.

Its not horrible as before, seems like now the problem is when the engine is warm and the rpms slowly climb up a bit. I'll give it a little gas and when the rpms fall, I'll give it a little more gas. That is when the engine is starting to stutter and cut out. I rechecked the fuel pressure, and its still fine. I know the butterfly valve is correct and so it the TPS. I'm wondering if its a timing issue, or maybe the knock or O2 sensor. I think those MIGHT be original, but I'm not too sure.

Any thoughts?

cruiser54

Ain't the knock sensor. Possibly the O2, but that's usually a low idle and surging.

Timing is not adjustable.

bdcontraplayr

Maybe the chain is stretched? But I'm thinking something electrical since its only when its warm. Like it purrs like a kitten when I first fire it up, then when it starts to get warm, that's when it stutters and seems like an inconsistent miss.

cruiser54

Ain't the chain.

Ever clean your IAT?

Do post 5 of my Tips?

bdcontraplayr

I did your post 5, that was like the first thing I did when you started to help me. My IAT is cleaned, and I moved it to the air box for a better reading.

I replaced the O2 sensor today and nothing new. Still same issue.