Looking for some help before I give up on my 88'
#136
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok... so totally left field here, but do you still have catalytic converter? I dealt with a similar issue on a Oldsmobile Delta 88 I worked on for a customer. Would run great until it got nice and hot (about 10 minutes) and then it would choke out and stall. Every once in a while if I was looking for it I would get a very very faint sulfur smell. With that in mind and everything else either replaced or tested I cut the cat off, put in a test pipe, ran it for a day and it ran perfect, the cat was clogged up. Put in a new cat (to pass emissions) and never had another issue.
And this is what I get for not reading every post on here. So it's now running, but with a stumble?
And this is what I get for not reading every post on here. So it's now running, but with a stumble?
Last edited by Xcessive; 05-23-2014 at 01:16 PM.
#137
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Yea, that crossed my mind as well, the cat. In his Vid, (some posts back), it idles, but dogs, and sometimes stalls out when he hits the throttle, then revs right up. My only expierence with a clogged cat was no power, doggen all the time....(I loosened the header pipe bolts and BINGO, she ran great!)
CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION
Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction.
CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION
Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 05-23-2014 at 01:42 PM.
#138
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yea, that crossed my mind as well, the cat. In his Vid, (some posts back), it idles, but dogs, and sometimes stalls out when he hits the throttle, then revs right up. My only expierence with a clogged cat was no power, doggen all the time....(I loosened the header pipe bolts and BINGO, she great
Is it possible that he has a couple bad injectors that are either not able to keep up with fuel requirements or are sticking open causing a flood condition?
#139
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
And yea assuming the Jeep is going to be kept and used, an injector up-grade is something to do at any time. The stock truly suck.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 05-24-2014 at 01:10 PM.
#140
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I can attest to that. I just did the 703 swap on my white jeep. Gained about 1 mpg, smoother idle, smoother throttle, no more power surge and starts right up instead of cranking a second. I think my green one (also a 96) is going to get a set of 746's as a kind of experiment.
Last edited by Xcessive; 05-24-2014 at 01:41 PM.
#142
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hmm I'll look into that. Anyhow, to not hijack the OP's thread.
I'm interested to see what the deal is here with his jeep. I know when I was chasing my electrical gremlins (df helped me a lot on that. Thank you again.) I ended up going over everything and testing everything a minimum of 3 times. Found multiple issues and it was a combination effect that was tripping my ASD relay.
#143
Sorry I've been absent from the forum. Had a death in the family and it's been pretty rough.
I'm going to be reading through what I've missed and I still need to check to MAP sensor, but should be fine since it's new, but doesn't hurt to try.
I'm going to be reading through what I've missed and I still need to check to MAP sensor, but should be fine since it's new, but doesn't hurt to try.
#144
I was thinking that as well at first, but it sounds like he may have a decent exhaust leak (cracked manifold?). It could be at idle that it's just enough to keep him running & when he blips the throttle it creates enough back pressure to cause a stall? I dunno? If mechanically the engine is good, has a fresh tune up, and electrically everything is checking out ok... like I said, just a left field thought, but maybe worth exploring.
Is it possible that he has a couple bad injectors that are either not able to keep up with fuel requirements or are sticking open causing a flood condition?
Is it possible that he has a couple bad injectors that are either not able to keep up with fuel requirements or are sticking open causing a flood condition?
#146
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,552 Likes
on
1,258 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#147
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
It would need a DRB II, or a Snap On 2500 with the correct cartridge.
Can you restate exactly what are the issues you are having?
Oh...not sure what you putting in there. It should have gas in the tank, and oil in the crankcase. If you are trying to diagnose a problem adding other products might make that harder. The only thing that might help some people, is pretty hard to find.
Can you restate exactly what are the issues you are having?
Oh...not sure what you putting in there. It should have gas in the tank, and oil in the crankcase. If you are trying to diagnose a problem adding other products might make that harder. The only thing that might help some people, is pretty hard to find.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 06-04-2014 at 08:03 PM.
#148
#149
It would need a DRB II, or a Snap On 2500 with the correct cartridge.
Can you restate exactly what are the issues you are having?
Oh...not sure what you putting in there. It should have gas in the tank, and oil in the crankcase. If you are trying to diagnose a problem adding other products might make that harder. The only thing that might help some people, is pretty hard to find.
Can you restate exactly what are the issues you are having?
Oh...not sure what you putting in there. It should have gas in the tank, and oil in the crankcase. If you are trying to diagnose a problem adding other products might make that harder. The only thing that might help some people, is pretty hard to find.
#150
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,552 Likes
on
1,258 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
It's cutting out and choking/stalling when the motor is warmed up. It can drive, but it'll stall from a dead stop when you try to take off again. I'm guessing its the cat or some kind of blockage. Maybe its the ECU. But something is getting hot and making it read all kinds of funky
CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION
Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction.