indyhoya

Hi all,

Looking to buy a used XJ to be used mostly for trips outside the city (I mostly bike and take public transportation around DC) and for outdoor activities. Been looking mostly on craigslist, but also on cars.com and autotrader.com.

Have read a lot of threads on this forum what to keep an eye out for when looking for these, and the pros and cons to different years. Am hoping to find an automatic with under 150K for $3000 and under but am willing to go higher if it seems worth the price premium. 4WD would be nice but not imperative as I don't anticipate doing a lot of wheeling.

Thought it'd be a good idea to ask around on here for advice on a few specific listings in my area.

1996 Sport 2WD, 147K miles, $2100
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/m...088793991.html

1997 Sport 4WD, 134K miles, $3000
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/n...074153192.html

1998 Sport 4WD, 127K miles, $2900
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/n...075301064.html

1997 SE 4WD, 126K miles, $2000
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/d...064978907.html

Obviously will have to go out in person and do a thorough check and test drive-but off the bat I feel more comfortable with the 1996 that has had only one owner and appears to have been well maintained.

Also if anyone knows of a good mechanic in the DC area they could recommend that would be very helpful. Thanks!

ZINGGG

That 96 looks good and seems like it would fit what you're looking to do with the XJ. The big thing that concerns me is how the transmission was replaced. I'd want to know why and how it drives now. Something tells me that this replacement tranny is problematic, making him want to sell it. So just pay close attention to how it shifts when you test drive it

944.0

I wish they were that cheap around here. Every one of those would probably go for $5000 or more.

NorCalJeep

These are really good prices for an Xj.I like the 98 with 127k looks like a good deal.

ingenio

my 0.02 comments:

search for a 97-99 NON ABS brakes XJ due to:
1) "modern" body & interiors line..I like them.
2) 8.25, 29spline rear axle...not critical for your intended use.
3) improved e-fan (more blades & enhanced design) = better cooling
4) non-faulty heads as in 2000+
5) 231 tcase vs 242tcase in 2000+..fuel economy for your intended use.

fathan16

i'd go for the 97 for 3000... looks nice and not from a spotty dealership. but i wouldn't go off just that add. i'd like a newer model because of the interior, it's so much nicer than my 95

Radi

The first listing for the '96.... The recent tranny change makes me nervous as well. Could be a good deal, or could be a case of something still not right and owner just wants to move the problem down the road.
And 20 MPG city from an "efficient" 4.0? Uhm..... 4.0 is a lot of things, but 'efficient' is not one of them. What else is the owner fibbing about?

indyhoya

Thanks for the input guys-am planning on going to check out all of these over the next couple of days. I was concerned about the transmission replacement as well. I had followed up with the 96 on the issue on why it was replaced, with what, and what the cost. Got the following response:

"The original one died a long slow death that started with a long road trip in which a cheap jiffy lube forgot to put the plug back in when they refilled the trans fluid. My mechanic said they probably killed it and it would die in about a year, but it's a pre-1997-evo cherokee and they're pretty solid. So it lasted another four or five years until one morning it just wouldn't go into gear. I had it completely replaced, not rebuilt, with another cherokee transmission that had about 70k miles on it. The total cost was about $938 (parts, labor, and whatever the MD tax rate is) and the warranty is still good for another two or three months"

Would have preferred it rebuilt but makes me feel a little better about it. any thoughts? Thanks for the help.

mikeoc1

I like the 97. like others said the interior is much nicer. Even though you wont be doing any wheeling I would rather have the 4WD. The 2wd will get stuck in wet grass, winter weather a total no go.

gunnersguru

i vote for the 98

apw5746

Personally I'd stay away from the one that have been in accidents. When I got mine, I was told it was a slight tap. The Car Fax even listed 1 accident. I trusted (WRONG) what the PO had to say and went ahead and bought it. In addition PO didn't do any general maintenance. It was my fault all the way, but I had a lease that was due, and I needed a DD. XJ's in Colorado go for a premium as this is good 4 wheeling country. Plus it's close to Moab. Long story short. It had DW between 48-52 mph which I did detect because I tested it on the freeway. I have put a fair amount of $ in the front end, but it's a Jeep and I can go off road to the out of way places to fly fish and prospect. So the saying 'buyer beware' really comes into play. If you're a good mechanic, then make your choice.

apw

Elexwiz

A word about Carfax. Crap! Don't trust them. The only way accidents/repairs get reported is if they're covered by the insurance companies. I've bought used vehicles that have had clean Carfax reports but found definite evidence of accidents and subsequent repairs. If someone hands you a Carfax, thank them, crumble it up, and hand it back. They aren't worth the paper they're printed on... Good luck with your search!

944.0

Even if its coverd by insurance it still might not show up. My brothers truck rolled down the hill and caused $6000 in damage and when he traded it in 4 months later the dealer ran a carfax and it didn't show up.

Elexwiz

See. They do suck!!!

CARFAX

stormitecture

I even had car fax show an "accident" on a report for a car that never had one. Car fax is complete junk for that. It is decent at mileage, records, state registration, etc. If I did pay attention to the report on my Jeep, I may have saved myself. I didn't pick up on the fact that the mileage only change about 100 miles between Florida's last report and when I looked at in in Maryland. Not that in itself that is too odd (vehicles to get shipped). However, the fact the person selling it to me said it was "driven" to Maryland should have been a red flag.

Also should never have touched something that came from Florida. NEVER buy anything that comes from or has been Florida.


Now....since you are looking in DC area......DO NOT BUY FROM A DEALER.....esp. In Virginia. Insist on Maryland Inspection if titling in Maryland! Dc Area vehicles that are legitamate quality cars go for a tad over book. Be sure you know why you use KBB vs. NADA (later is not for avg. buyer/seller).