I have a 1999 Cherokee and lately i am experiencing a long cold start. If i put the key into the on position first, wait a few seconds then start it, its not as long. After i drive it, get it warm, then shut it off, it starts right up.
Although when the truck is cold and whether i prime it or not, when i put it in drive and start driving the engine sputters for the first 5-8 seconds on acceleration like as if its not getting enough fuel. Then its fine from then on.
Also i was wheeling the other night and i didnt shut the truck off for the whole 4 hours we were out (b.c last time i did i lost all power to the truck and it was just an OCD precaution i am sure it would have been fine). For the 4 hours we were in there two trucks broke driveshafts at different times so we worked on them while my truck was running. After, when we would start driving again and when i would go to take off, the engine would sputter on acceleration. I would rev up to 3 grand trying to get it to stop, after about 30 seconds it would stop. This happened twice but the truck never stalled
I have a read about the one way check valve in the fuel pump and if i get a fuel pressure gauge and leave it hooked up after 5 mins and the pressure drops below 30 psi then i could have a bad pump. Could i just push the prime valve instead and see if fuel shoots out after being off for 5 minutes?
Could it just be the fuel filter?
Also has anyone done a fuel pump on these trucks before, if they could give me a few tips that would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
-Mike
Although when the truck is cold and whether i prime it or not, when i put it in drive and start driving the engine sputters for the first 5-8 seconds on acceleration like as if its not getting enough fuel. Then its fine from then on.
Also i was wheeling the other night and i didnt shut the truck off for the whole 4 hours we were out (b.c last time i did i lost all power to the truck and it was just an OCD precaution i am sure it would have been fine). For the 4 hours we were in there two trucks broke driveshafts at different times so we worked on them while my truck was running. After, when we would start driving again and when i would go to take off, the engine would sputter on acceleration. I would rev up to 3 grand trying to get it to stop, after about 30 seconds it would stop. This happened twice but the truck never stalled
I have a read about the one way check valve in the fuel pump and if i get a fuel pressure gauge and leave it hooked up after 5 mins and the pressure drops below 30 psi then i could have a bad pump. Could i just push the prime valve instead and see if fuel shoots out after being off for 5 minutes?
Could it just be the fuel filter?
Also has anyone done a fuel pump on these trucks before, if they could give me a few tips that would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
-Mike
Senior Member
Member
I have had a similar problem in the past. Changing the fuel filter solved it.
Also, my last fuel filter was installed a year ago and is almost rusted through - it was an Oreilly brand one. I dont live in an area where rust is an issue. I used to use Autozone branded ones. I will be going back to the Autozone branded ones.
Also, my last fuel filter was installed a year ago and is almost rusted through - it was an Oreilly brand one. I dont live in an area where rust is an issue. I used to use Autozone branded ones. I will be going back to the Autozone branded ones.
Okay, but the fuel filter is in the tank right? if so should i just replace the whole pump?
and i am about to look now but on the 99 cherokee's (97-01) i heard the fuel pump is on the top of the tank not side
and i am about to look now but on the 99 cherokee's (97-01) i heard the fuel pump is on the top of the tank not side
Member
I have the same exact issue; along with many others... I've been looking around and was seeing that sometimes a faulty cat can give you problems.. I have my cel on and the code is showing the CO2 sensors.. I'm not replacing them anytime soon though since it takes 2-3 weeks to get a part shipped here. I'm going to keep an eye out on this thread.
Quote:
Thats interesting you say that because i had a wire ripped out of the 02 sensor after the cat thus leading to CEL, I replaced the 02, and no more light. But now after the fact i am having this problem.Originally Posted by Volcomroofus
I have the same exact issue; along with many others... I've been looking around and was seeing that sometimes a faulty cat can give you problems.. I have my cel on and the code is showing the CO2 sensors.. I'm not replacing them anytime soon though since it takes 2-3 weeks to get a part shipped here. I'm going to keep an eye out on this thread.
I just drove to school and forgot to look if the pump is on top or side of the tank. Although last night i filled up the truck, put a bottle of that fuel injector cleaner in it for the first time, and this morning when i started it up, i did not prime it and it only took 2 cranks to start.(Basically a 1-1/2 second start) I am thinking its the Fuel Filter.
-Mike
Member
I originally thought it might have been the battery because i had to replace it with a smaller battery then what I originally had in there due to availability. I would turn the key so everything comes on and let it sit for a second, atleast until the radio came on. Then I'd try to start and wouldn't turn over. Turn it all the way off and do the same thing. It will rarely start the 2nd time but mostly the 3rd time. Drive like garbage and sound like its going to stall until I get about 50-100 yards then it will run just fine. I could go somewhere, do my thing there and as long as I come back relatively soon it would crank right up first try...
I had a guy drop my gas tank to check the floating ball lever and make sure it wasn't sticking because my gas gauge would work sometimes. It would stay at full until I get to half a tank then read it fine from half tank to E. After about a few months of that it stopped working all together. Always reads empty but the dummy light will still come on. He say's that the issue is with a connection in the cluster behind the dash. I'm wondering if he accidently screwed something up when checking out the pump or the whole pump assembly is going bad. I live in a 3rd world country and I'm sure the gas here is like crap so maybe it could just be a new filter? I hate diagnosing problems
I had a guy drop my gas tank to check the floating ball lever and make sure it wasn't sticking because my gas gauge would work sometimes. It would stay at full until I get to half a tank then read it fine from half tank to E. After about a few months of that it stopped working all together. Always reads empty but the dummy light will still come on. He say's that the issue is with a connection in the cluster behind the dash. I'm wondering if he accidently screwed something up when checking out the pump or the whole pump assembly is going bad. I live in a 3rd world country and I'm sure the gas here is like crap so maybe it could just be a new filter? I hate diagnosing problems
