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lockers ?

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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 01:57 PM
  #16  
redxj97's Avatar
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From: yakima
Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0 ho
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Originally Posted by xjmarc
Also keep in mind the ected is only rated up to a 35. I've only know one person to run an OX and he loves it and there are no air lines or compressors to break but ARB has a good rep. Just don't use the plastic lines that come with them, they crimp and dry rot. Also keep them away from heat and anything that can damage them.
thanks ill make sure i upgrade the lines then
i wheel with one guy that has a ox and he liked it but the guy who installed it ran it to close to his exhaust and the outer lining melted to the inner cable so its useless right now and just the cable is about 100 bucks im pretty sure
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 10:41 AM
  #17  
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From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
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I only knew 2 people to run the eaton... they now run arb's.
I only know 1 person to run an Ox... he wishes he'd gone arb.
If I had the coin, I would run arb... I knew it before I met those people, but they reinforced it.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 08:52 PM
  #18  
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From: yakima
Year: 1997
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Originally Posted by Mike H.
I only knew 2 people to run the eaton... they now run arb's.
I only know 1 person to run an Ox... he wishes he'd gone arb.
If I had the coin, I would run arb... I knew it before I met those people, but they reinforced it.
haha alright sounds like im goin arb hands down

thanks for your input everyone

once i get em ill try to get pics up
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #19  
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From: yakima
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well i got a front locker i got a dana 35 with 4.56 gears and a ox locker and gen2 axles i got it for 650$
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 10:18 AM
  #20  
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From: Lenoir City, TN
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
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An ox locker and upgraded axles for the D35? Can't say i'd spend over 100$ on the D35, but if it fits your needs, so be it.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 10:21 AM
  #21  
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From: Alto, MI
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
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How big of tire is too big when locking the front dana 30? I am real easy on the skinny pedal. Think it would be fine with 35s?
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:38 AM
  #22  
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From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
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^ youll be fine, just carry a couple spare axle shafts just in case
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:51 AM
  #23  
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I've got ARBs and I love them.

If you snag a line its gonna be easier to change than swapping an axle. So if you can swap an axle on the trail, you can swap or fix a snagged/torn air line.

You don't have to use the ARB lines as already suggested, so why not carry a spare just in case?
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 12:08 PM
  #24  
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my buddy with a sweet land rover defender with like, 35x9's and ARB's front and rears comment: yeah, you just kick on the compressor, engage the front, engage the rear... and its a little like cheating..." one day, i will be as lucky.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 12:22 PM
  #25  
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From: Detroit, MI
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For street & off-road mix...Detroit Locker in back and leave the front alone, buy a winch/bumper setup for the rare time you get stuck...IF you ever get stuck.

BTW, I've been told tires are as important as lockers of any variety.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 12:33 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by CAEMI
I've been told tires are as important as lockers of any variety.
I'd say thats an accurate statement.

Try driving in snow with slicks. Even in 4wd. Then try with some ATs or MTs and you'll see the difference.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 01:35 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CAEMI
For street & off-road mix...Detroit Locker in back and leave the front alone, buy a winch/bumper setup for the rare time you get stuck...IF you ever get stuck.

BTW, I've been told tires are as important as lockers of any variety.
the thought that the tires play serious role in determining your off road capabilities seems like an often overlooked part of the equation... i recently switched from GY wrangler SR-A's to GY duratracks... i kept the same size (235/75) cause so far all ive done is a 2"bb... but the difference in grip is all there. the SR-A is a highway radial with really no off roading capabilities. the duratrac is a 10ply, e rated tire that is actually good in all terrain... that said, the really deep mud and sand ive been in has proven to be a little challenging. snow, however hasnt been a problem! our VT winter is finally under way and these tires rock!!
long story short, i could imagine that (at least) a rear locker would give me the equivalent increase in traction that the new tires gave me. and if that were the case, imagine what fronts would do... (drool)
so what if i want to get rid of that annoying 1-wheel spin on hard accel. or corners where your inside, or drive tire for that matter, but i dont want the equivalent of posi. so when im turning around at full lock it wont hop??
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 01:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by VTJeep
so what if i want to get rid of that annoying 1-wheel spin on hard accel. or corners where your inside, or drive tire for that matter, but i dont want the equivalent of posi. so when im turning around at full lock it wont hop??
If you have a locker that is not selectable yeah, it'll hop/bark/spin at the same speed as the outside tire. This'll chew up tires faster and put unnatural load on the inner axle, which will increase the chance of breaking stuff.

Thats why I like my ARBs. Beautiful setup.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 01:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
If you have a locker that is not selectable yeah, it'll hop/bark/spin at the same speed as the outside tire. This'll chew up tires faster and put unnatural load on the inner axle, which will increase the chance of breaking stuff.

Thats why I like my ARBs. Beautiful setup.
man, i guess you get what you par for... ive seen lockers for my 8.25 that can run as low as +/-300. but ARBs seem like at least twice that... is this due to that fact they are selectable, made of good materials...???
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 02:36 PM
  #30  
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They're more expensive due to they are most complicated then simple lunchbox lockers.
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