Locker or lift?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,735
Likes: 1
From: Metro Denver, CO
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I still stand by what I said earlier. Armor is the biggest confidence booster you can get.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 734
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From: Cullman Alabama
Year: 1998 1992 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: All Inline 6 4.0
What kind of armor we talking about skids?Well there is a new trail close by that is 1000acres millions put in to it and it has beginner trails inter and advanced.Going to check it out soon
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,661
Likes: 15
From: Smiths Station, Al
Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0 I6
I wish I could wheel with ya hubbazoot so you can show me places that you could go that I cannot. I have yet to find anything that I can't do that a locked 2incher could do.
Lockers are more important when you GO BIG. Armor is definitely important though. But not near as expensive besides rock rails I found all my armor at JY for a combined total of 35 bucks then had a buddy weld up my sliders for 100 total.
Lockers are more important when you GO BIG. Armor is definitely important though. But not near as expensive besides rock rails I found all my armor at JY for a combined total of 35 bucks then had a buddy weld up my sliders for 100 total.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 734
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From: Cullman Alabama
Year: 1998 1992 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: All Inline 6 4.0
I wish I could wheel with ya hubbazoot so you can show me places that you could go that I cannot. I have yet to find anything that I can't do that a locked 2incher could do.
Lockers are more important when you GO BIG. Armor is definitely important though. But not near as expensive besides rock rails I found all my armor at JY for a combined total of 35 bucks then had a buddy weld up my sliders for 100 total.
Lockers are more important when you GO BIG. Armor is definitely important though. But not near as expensive besides rock rails I found all my armor at JY for a combined total of 35 bucks then had a buddy weld up my sliders for 100 total.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,661
Likes: 15
From: Smiths Station, Al
Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0 I6
When you turn one wheel spins at a different speed than the other so if you have a locker it doesn't make a great sound when this tries to happen.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 404
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC, Canada
Year: Sold my 1991 to go to school for 2 years.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Airlockers are selectable lockers that are actuated with air. You can also get selectable lockers that are electronically and cable actuated. The only downfall is that they are spendy.
Auto lockers (non selectable) can be driven with on the street as long as you are midful of the fact that you have one and don't mash the gas in corners. Auto lockers are made to allow the axles to turn at different speeds as long as there in no power going through them.
Auto lockers (non selectable) can be driven with on the street as long as you are midful of the fact that you have one and don't mash the gas in corners. Auto lockers are made to allow the axles to turn at different speeds as long as there in no power going through them.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,735
Likes: 1
From: Metro Denver, CO
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Lockers make both your wheels on one axle spin at the same rates when under power. It makes your tires wear a little faster and makes it a little harder to make turns, but it definitely works wonders off-road.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,244
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From: socal
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A locker will be able to take you places a lift can't. I have a 2" AAL (with shocks and new front springs) and have locked the rear. I can tell you that the locker will do infinitely more for your trail ability than the lift will. Probably the first thing you can do to improve your trail-ability is get some disconnects. There are either homebrew options (that aren't very strong but very cheap) starting at just a few dollars for parts, or you can get premade swaybar link replacements for as cheap as $50. I was able to get a lock-right locker for $300 and has made a huge difference. There are times I've been able to feel when I max out flex, and before my locker was installed, this is where my traction would stop. Now that I have my locker, I've been able to just "walk" up an obstacle that I couldn't attempt before.
As far as the order I recommend:
1- Armor
2- Sway Disconnects
3- Locker
4- Lift
Most people disagree with this order, but I can tell you that being able to have the ability and traction to drag yourself over an obstacle will make a much larger difference than lifting it ever will.
I CANNOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH!! From firsthand experience, I can tell you that a locker makes infinitely more difference in off-road performance than a lift does too.
As far as lift options go, there's cheaper ways to do that too:
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...udget_Lift.htm
As far as the order I recommend:
1- Armor
2- Sway Disconnects
3- Locker
4- Lift
Most people disagree with this order, but I can tell you that being able to have the ability and traction to drag yourself over an obstacle will make a much larger difference than lifting it ever will.
I CANNOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH!! From firsthand experience, I can tell you that a locker makes infinitely more difference in off-road performance than a lift does too.
As far as lift options go, there's cheaper ways to do that too:
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...udget_Lift.htm
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 724
Likes: 1
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4-banger
well it depends where you live and how much you wheel. if you tend to wheel alot and or just skrew around on the weekends then get the locker but if not so much then get the lift
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
I believe this thread has many good points.
If you read all the posts you will see that folks are pretty much saying that a single component does not make a stock Cherokee a well balanced off road rig.
I do believe that any Cherokee that is going offroad needs be disconnected.
A stock Cherokee disconnected will go places you'll wish you had armor, and a lifted Cherokee will go places you'll need armor... which is why I place armor at the top of the list.
I prefer to get my lift via tire size.
Large tires will necessitate lower gearing, and if you don't have armor at this point you will start tearing the rig up in short order.
The downside to armor is… cost.
I believe minimum armor to be t-case and gas tank skids along with rocker rails.
Trouble is, once those are installed, you’ll be going places you’ll wish you had bumpers and diff covers. By this time you’ll be using the rig hard enough that chassis reinforcing (they act as skids too) will be a must if you plan on keeping the rig for any amount of time.
Lifts;
A tall lift does not automatically mean a well functioning platform.
Tall economical lifts typically have design compromises in control arms, track bars and shock lengths. These elements will dramatically restrict flexibility.
A budget boost (coil spacers and shackle relocation kit) with long travel shocks, double shear track bar and spherical bearing control arms will have dramatically more articulation than a taller compromised lift.
So, lift inches is not as important as lift functionality.
And in the end lockers… I don’t believe a locker is a must if the rest of the rig is well balanced, but boy they sure don’t hurt you any.
Personally, I don’t run a locker, but I do run TrueTracs. With the e-brake yanked and riding the brake it will stay “locked” up. It’s a lot of foot action (5 spd) and sometimes I wish I had ARB’s (selectable lockers)… those will be next.
So, for me, lockers come last, and you’ve really gotta be running nasty terrain to “need” a locker.
I’m bored.
Hope my novel was helpful.
If you read all the posts you will see that folks are pretty much saying that a single component does not make a stock Cherokee a well balanced off road rig.
I do believe that any Cherokee that is going offroad needs be disconnected.
A stock Cherokee disconnected will go places you'll wish you had armor, and a lifted Cherokee will go places you'll need armor... which is why I place armor at the top of the list.
I prefer to get my lift via tire size.
Large tires will necessitate lower gearing, and if you don't have armor at this point you will start tearing the rig up in short order.
The downside to armor is… cost.
I believe minimum armor to be t-case and gas tank skids along with rocker rails.
Trouble is, once those are installed, you’ll be going places you’ll wish you had bumpers and diff covers. By this time you’ll be using the rig hard enough that chassis reinforcing (they act as skids too) will be a must if you plan on keeping the rig for any amount of time.
Lifts;
A tall lift does not automatically mean a well functioning platform.
Tall economical lifts typically have design compromises in control arms, track bars and shock lengths. These elements will dramatically restrict flexibility.
A budget boost (coil spacers and shackle relocation kit) with long travel shocks, double shear track bar and spherical bearing control arms will have dramatically more articulation than a taller compromised lift.
So, lift inches is not as important as lift functionality.
And in the end lockers… I don’t believe a locker is a must if the rest of the rig is well balanced, but boy they sure don’t hurt you any.
Personally, I don’t run a locker, but I do run TrueTracs. With the e-brake yanked and riding the brake it will stay “locked” up. It’s a lot of foot action (5 spd) and sometimes I wish I had ARB’s (selectable lockers)… those will be next.
So, for me, lockers come last, and you’ve really gotta be running nasty terrain to “need” a locker.
I’m bored.
Hope my novel was helpful.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,735
Likes: 1
From: Metro Denver, CO
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Mike you put that really well. As for a place to start, here's some video of me and a friend on some pretty rough terrain and has good examples of lift and lockers at work.
Samurai: Open/Open
Green XJ: Open/Open, 4" longarm lift
Me (White/silver): Open Front/Locked back, 2" AAL
Both me and green XJ had the conventional run for wheeling: Rails, Gas tank, Tcase.
I really think regardless of whether you decide to go with a lift or locker first (both will do wonders for your performance), I think that armor definitely comes first before either. I had my 2" aal before I even had my gas tank skid on and I really do regret it. I wish I would have had my gas tank skid in place long before that as well as my skid rails. Between the rails and the gas tank skid, both are a huge confidence booster as well as boosting comfort and reducing worry.
Samurai: Open/Open
Green XJ: Open/Open, 4" longarm lift
Me (White/silver): Open Front/Locked back, 2" AAL
Both me and green XJ had the conventional run for wheeling: Rails, Gas tank, Tcase.
I really think regardless of whether you decide to go with a lift or locker first (both will do wonders for your performance), I think that armor definitely comes first before either. I had my 2" aal before I even had my gas tank skid on and I really do regret it. I wish I would have had my gas tank skid in place long before that as well as my skid rails. Between the rails and the gas tank skid, both are a huge confidence booster as well as boosting comfort and reducing worry.
Last edited by hubbazoot; May 24, 2009 at 02:33 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,244
Likes: 0
From: socal
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I believe this thread has many good points.
If you read all the posts you will see that folks are pretty much saying that a single component does not make a stock Cherokee a well balanced off road rig.
I do believe that any Cherokee that is going offroad needs be disconnected.
A stock Cherokee disconnected will go places you'll wish you had armor, and a lifted Cherokee will go places you'll need armor... which is why I place armor at the top of the list.
I prefer to get my lift via tire size.
Large tires will necessitate lower gearing, and if you don't have armor at this point you will start tearing the rig up in short order.
The downside to armor is… cost.
I believe minimum armor to be t-case and gas tank skids along with rocker rails.
Trouble is, once those are installed, you’ll be going places you’ll wish you had bumpers and diff covers. By this time you’ll be using the rig hard enough that chassis reinforcing (they act as skids too) will be a must if you plan on keeping the rig for any amount of time.
Lifts;
A tall lift does not automatically mean a well functioning platform.
Tall economical lifts typically have design compromises in control arms, track bars and shock lengths. These elements will dramatically restrict flexibility.
A budget boost (coil spacers and shackle relocation kit) with long travel shocks, double shear track bar and spherical bearing control arms will have dramatically more articulation than a taller compromised lift.
So, lift inches is not as important as lift functionality.
And in the end lockers… I don’t believe a locker is a must if the rest of the rig is well balanced, but boy they sure don’t hurt you any.
Personally, I don’t run a locker, but I do run TrueTracs. With the e-brake yanked and riding the brake it will stay “locked” up. It’s a lot of foot action (5 spd) and sometimes I wish I had ARB’s (selectable lockers)… those will be next.
So, for me, lockers come last, and you’ve really gotta be running nasty terrain to “need” a locker.
I’m bored.
Hope my novel was helpful.
If you read all the posts you will see that folks are pretty much saying that a single component does not make a stock Cherokee a well balanced off road rig.
I do believe that any Cherokee that is going offroad needs be disconnected.
A stock Cherokee disconnected will go places you'll wish you had armor, and a lifted Cherokee will go places you'll need armor... which is why I place armor at the top of the list.
I prefer to get my lift via tire size.
Large tires will necessitate lower gearing, and if you don't have armor at this point you will start tearing the rig up in short order.
The downside to armor is… cost.
I believe minimum armor to be t-case and gas tank skids along with rocker rails.
Trouble is, once those are installed, you’ll be going places you’ll wish you had bumpers and diff covers. By this time you’ll be using the rig hard enough that chassis reinforcing (they act as skids too) will be a must if you plan on keeping the rig for any amount of time.
Lifts;
A tall lift does not automatically mean a well functioning platform.
Tall economical lifts typically have design compromises in control arms, track bars and shock lengths. These elements will dramatically restrict flexibility.
A budget boost (coil spacers and shackle relocation kit) with long travel shocks, double shear track bar and spherical bearing control arms will have dramatically more articulation than a taller compromised lift.
So, lift inches is not as important as lift functionality.
And in the end lockers… I don’t believe a locker is a must if the rest of the rig is well balanced, but boy they sure don’t hurt you any.
Personally, I don’t run a locker, but I do run TrueTracs. With the e-brake yanked and riding the brake it will stay “locked” up. It’s a lot of foot action (5 spd) and sometimes I wish I had ARB’s (selectable lockers)… those will be next.
So, for me, lockers come last, and you’ve really gotta be running nasty terrain to “need” a locker.
I’m bored.
Hope my novel was helpful.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,244
Likes: 0
From: socal
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Mike you put that really well. As for a place to start, here's some video of me and a friend on some pretty rough terrain and has good examples of lift and lockers at work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fjtXKH3RlY
.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fjtXKH3RlY
.
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