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Locked front axle.

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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 07:38 PM
  #16  
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alittle more info

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/u-j...-30925/index2/
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:08 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
yeah... thats for a 9"... you asked about a dana 30 or 35... and we told you...
I know that is what I was saying at first I cant find one like that for my axle.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:13 PM
  #18  
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So basically you guys are saying do not lock my front?
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:34 PM
  #19  
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From: Griffin, G.A.
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Originally Posted by 89whiteXJ
I know that is what I was saying at first I cant find one like that for my axle.
and you wont lol... thats what were saying... $250ish is the cheapest you will find unless used...
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:35 PM
  #20  
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From: Griffin, G.A.
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no you can lock the front... just dont weld it... some people weld them but they stay on a trailer for the road... not road safe once done...
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:42 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
no you can lock the front... just dont weld it... some people weld them but they stay on a trailer for the road... not road safe once done...
But why not if I have the vac disconnest? It wouldnt matter. They are not like a solid axle when disconnected.

Sorry, I am just trying to understand it all.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:45 PM
  #22  
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From: Griffin, G.A.
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he was saying if you lock it that in hard core wheelin you will probly break the axle joints when your in 4x4 and locked... with the 2 peice axle... does the built axle have ABS?
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:53 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
he was saying if you lock it that in hard core wheelin you will probly break the axle joints when your in 4x4 and locked... with the 2 peice axle... does the built axle have ABS?
No it is my stock d30 axle from my 89 cherokee laredo
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:58 PM
  #24  
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From: Griffin, G.A.
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yeah should more then likely have the 260 joints...
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:17 PM
  #25  
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ok so why even though I have a disconnect should I not lock the front and use on the street?
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:56 PM
  #26  
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k your confusing the crap outta me now... lol... if its locked... ride it on the street its fine... if its welded (different then being locked) then you dont want to drive it on the pavement...
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 10:24 AM
  #27  
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sorry, i should've been a little more clear. i was in a hurry.

your vac disco axle has tiny 260 u-joints. if you lock the front up, welded or not, and you get into a tight spot on the trail, providing you air down, where you have to climb a front tire up a rock or ledge while the opposite rear tire has to do the same, while turning a tight turn, you will definitely snap a shaft. you may get lucky and just shatter a u-joint, and if you get off the gas soon enough, you might get lucky and not take the ears off your shaft.

trust me, i've had this happen a few times. mostly when i am trying to reverse out of that situation.

i thought the same thing, lock a disconnect axle and use a posi cable, then it's like having a selectable locker. it's a good idea, but those pesky little u-joints bring you to reality real quick when you snap both sides within 20 feet on a tough trail.
stick to entry level trails and you may get away with it for a little while. but that's still just prolonging the inevitable.

i may still have all my broken shafts lying around. i can snap a pic for you all to see.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 09:13 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by caged
sorry, i should've been a little more clear. i was in a hurry.

your vac disco axle has tiny 260 u-joints. if you lock the front up, welded or not, and you get into a tight spot on the trail, providing you air down, where you have to climb a front tire up a rock or ledge while the opposite rear tire has to do the same, while turning a tight turn, you will definitely snap a shaft. you may get lucky and just shatter a u-joint, and if you get off the gas soon enough, you might get lucky and not take the ears off your shaft.

trust me, i've had this happen a few times. mostly when i am trying to reverse out of that situation.

i thought the same thing, lock a disconnect axle and use a posi cable, then it's like having a selectable locker. it's a good idea, but those pesky little u-joints bring you to reality real quick when you snap both sides within 20 feet on a tough trail.
stick to entry level trails and you may get away with it for a little while. but that's still just prolonging the inevitable.

i may still have all my broken shafts lying around. i can snap a pic for you all to see.
Haha No I dont need a picture. My main reason is for mudding that is what I do most. I dont have many hard trails around here. Just Some little ones to have a little fun on.
But you atleast understood what I was asking. Thanks for your answer.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 09:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
k your confusing the crap outta me now... lol... if its locked... ride it on the street its fine... if its welded (different then being locked) then you dont want to drive it on the pavement...
Should not be confused. Lock or welded same thing to me. If i weld the spider gears it would be like having a locker in there. I also have a vac disconnect So when I am not in 4wd no matter locker or not my axle will be like two pieces. Then when I am in 4wd I will have a solid axle.

By locker I dont mean a limited slip I mean locked like if I welded it.

Does that clear up what I am talking about?
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 11:16 PM
  #30  
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the other thing is i have a locker up front and the vac disconnect. when i apply the gas, it pulls a little to the left and when i let off it drifts off to the right, it is not a harsh jerk, but a noticeable one. just be aware that it will be less street worthy once you put a locker up front. also does anyone know if you switch from a 2 piece axle to a one piece, do you have to change your axle seal cause of the diameter difference?
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