Lock front or back first?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 397
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From: I'm bad, I'm nationwide.
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Do you have the stock limited slip in the back???? If you do then I'd lock the front. You already have a setup for the back stock, a LSD is a mucho bueno compared to an open. Put the locker in the front.
If you have an open diff in the back then flip a coin. THere are distinct advantages to having anything better then an open diff in either axle. Having the front unload in a locker while turning in the walmart parking lot is gonna feel funny. Its gonna suck on the ice but man will that sucker pull you around. and if you have that LSD in the back your gonna get over all kinds of shizer that would have been way out of your league before.
Put it in the back and you'll be happy. It will feel alot more like stock too. But if you want aggressive, Don't compromise. Lock that front up man!
If you have an open diff in the back then flip a coin. THere are distinct advantages to having anything better then an open diff in either axle. Having the front unload in a locker while turning in the walmart parking lot is gonna feel funny. Its gonna suck on the ice but man will that sucker pull you around. and if you have that LSD in the back your gonna get over all kinds of shizer that would have been way out of your league before.
Put it in the back and you'll be happy. It will feel alot more like stock too. But if you want aggressive, Don't compromise. Lock that front up man!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 58
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From: Jacksonville, TX
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
To be honest I dont know if the back is factory LSD. I havent had the cover off or the back wheels off the ground yet. (had this thing about a month, which have of that I was repairing stuff from the wreck the previous owner was in). But yea I am leaning REALLY hard towards locking the front. Aussie site says backorder for the dana 30. Any other recomendations? The Aussie is in price range so anything in that range?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,839
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From: West Deptford, NJ
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
To be honest I dont know if the back is factory LSD. I havent had the cover off or the back wheels off the ground yet. (had this thing about a month, which have of that I was repairing stuff from the wreck the previous owner was in). But yea I am leaning REALLY hard towards locking the front. Aussie site says backorder for the dana 30. Any other recomendations? The Aussie is in price range so anything in that range?
http://completeoffroad.com/i-1400324...sl-d30-27.html
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
even with an LSD, i'd lock the rear first. and i wouldn't lock the front again unless it's with a selectable locker, not a lunchbox/aussie locker.
get an ox, that diff cover will help strengthen that weak d30.
get an ox, that diff cover will help strengthen that weak d30.
Funny time for this question, I just put a lock right in the FRONT today! Here is why, already have a fresh LSD in my D44, it was cheaper, the front is open and I have a disco front, so it will be completely invisible. If I still have trouble the D44 will get a powertrax no-slip.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
be careful reversing with the wheels turned on the rocks, or even a slight incline. just be easy on it, then when the u-joint breaks, you might get lucky and it won't take the ears out on the shafts.
just be sure to carry spare shafts. preferably with joints/complete ready for install.
just be sure to carry spare shafts. preferably with joints/complete ready for install.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 397
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From: I'm bad, I'm nationwide.
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
be careful reversing with the wheels turned on the rocks, or even a slight incline. just be easy on it, then when the u-joint breaks, you might get lucky and it won't take the ears out on the shafts.
just be sure to carry spare shafts. preferably with joints/complete ready for install.
just be sure to carry spare shafts. preferably with joints/complete ready for install.
another thing to consider is the rear axle shafts are held in by C-clips, so if you do break a axleshaft and have a lunchbox locker, you have to take out the WHOLE locker ammebly it get at the C-clips. So now you just turned a 1hr trail repair into a 2hr+ repair.
Where as the front axle shaft can be swapped out much more quickly with a lunchbox locker.
I have a Aussie in my front. I only got to wheel it twice before the motor blew on it, but its going pretty darn good so far
Where as the front axle shaft can be swapped out much more quickly with a lunchbox locker.
I have a Aussie in my front. I only got to wheel it twice before the motor blew on it, but its going pretty darn good so far
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 7
From: West Deptford, NJ
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
be careful reversing with the wheels turned on the rocks, or even a slight incline. just be easy on it, then when the u-joint breaks, you might get lucky and it won't take the ears out on the shafts.
just be sure to carry spare shafts. preferably with joints/complete ready for install.
just be sure to carry spare shafts. preferably with joints/complete ready for install.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 0
From: Alexander City, alabama
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
So from what I gather here is if I'm in mud a lot the front is where its at? Just wondering I been looking at the ected lockers and a purchase is in the near future. Any expriences with these?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,262
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From: Conroe, Texas
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
ya if your in mud alot. or just lock both. I want ECTED front and back but i have the CHRY 8.25 and they dont make one for that. plus their really expensive....
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
don't get me wrong tho, i love my lock-rites, just gotta beef up the d30 with alloys and larger joints, but you're limited with the disco shafts.
you can always go with alloys, but you'll just be moving the weak point to the ring and pinion. i would rather bust a shaft or joint on the trail.
33's on a stock locked large joint 30, 35's with alloys max.
i'm on 36's locked, but snap shafts and joints all day long.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 397
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From: I'm bad, I'm nationwide.
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
not while you're in 4wd and touching the gas. they only disengage while coasting around corners. but will still lock in when accelerating around corners if too heavy on the gas pedal.
don't get me wrong tho, i love my lock-rites, just gotta beef up the d30 with alloys and larger joints, but you're limited with the disco shafts.
you can always go with alloys, but you'll just be moving the weak point to the ring and pinion. i would rather bust a shaft or joint on the trail.
33's on a stock locked large joint 30, 35's with alloys max.
i'm on 36's locked, but snap shafts and joints all day long.
don't get me wrong tho, i love my lock-rites, just gotta beef up the d30 with alloys and larger joints, but you're limited with the disco shafts.
you can always go with alloys, but you'll just be moving the weak point to the ring and pinion. i would rather bust a shaft or joint on the trail.
33's on a stock locked large joint 30, 35's with alloys max.
i'm on 36's locked, but snap shafts and joints all day long.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, TX
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I looked at the spartans on ebay, like 240-245 with free shipping. I think that is what I am going to get (order next week). I got a extra set of stock shafts to keep with me so thats cool.
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