buy a haynes manual, not a cd unless you want to get your computer all dirty or have to print sections out every time your gonna work on a specific section of the jeep, i have owned one for every car i have every owned... it will help you identify parts in question and help you ask better questions... good luck, dont sell it

 

Yes thats it, take it off and you should see the torque converter. then do as cruiser said.

 

there are some 14mm bolts and some larger bolts with nuts on the other side. Do I need to worry about torque specs here or can I just take em off and tighten them without much worry. Also, what torque should I be tightening the torque conveter to flexplate bolts to?

 

Yes. That's it.

 

Thank you guys so much for all the help. I greatly appreciate it. It is getting dark here so I am gonna have to wait until my next days off unfortunately.

What are the torque specs? anyone? i don't think i can even get my torque wrench in there to begin with so I think i will tighten till I can't tighten any more unless someone has the specs. I can't find them anywhere.

I am hoping that this will fix my problem. If it doesn't, I am just gonna degrease and sell it to some poor unsuspecting fool. I am bumbed because I finally got my transfer case to stop leaking and thought I had got a good deal on a very clean '95 xj.

 

It is hard to get a torque wrench up in there. Long box end wrench will work fine.

 

Thanks again cruiser. I really appreciate your help. That goes for all of you. I will have to attack this problem on my next day off. I will make sure to take lots of pictures and post them. Hopefully this thread will help others too.

 

Pix would be great. I'm stealing your initial photo for my use in the future.

 

I would start checking what Cruiser said and if the bolts are not loose check the flexplate for cracks, it happened to me before.

 

 

FYI, the Drive Plate (Flex Plate) to Torque Converter bolts torque is 28 ft/lbs and the access cover bolts torque is 181 in/lbs (even the big bolts).

You don't have to remove the big bolt behind the exhaust pipe. The access cover is slotted at this bolt. You will need to remove the big bolt on the passenger side however.

Tht's a nice photo of the drive plate & bolts. Check for elongated bolt holes in the plate, and check for radial cracks in the plate. Look closely around the crankshaft flange for circumferential cracks. Most of the time these circumferential cracks won't be visible but may exist and have caused big time wobble of the plate for other Jeep owners.

Elongated bolt holes or cracks in the plate are cause for rejection of the plate.

 

Excellent photo. I stole it, too.

 

Thanks for the photo. It looks as though the oil pan has been dropped. Should I consider doing this for better access to the flex plate? Or can I reach it without removing the pan? With the pan in the way, I will not be able to get a torque wrench in the, but cruiser said a long box end wrench will do just fine.

 

Get a mechanics stethoscope and check it out. This is one of the cheapest and handiest tools you can get. Just like the doctors type but has a rod or probe at the end. Touch it on the valve cover, disti side of block and then the oil pan to see if you can isolate the noise. I got one at Harbor freight for like $5. Use it all the time (especially on an XJ).
Do NOT get near the belt or fan with it though.

 

No need to drop the pan. Are you done yet? Were they loose?