leaf spring and shackle bolts stuck?
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: marks, mississippi
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
when i replaced mine i had to cut the 2 front bolts, thankfully they werent siezed to the frame rail nut but could not get them unstuck from the bushings. the shackle bolts are the same so i just used generic grade 8 bolt for the shackle when i put the new springs on. didnt have to go to the dealer. just dont break more than 2 bolts
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Chicago area
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee(ZJ)
Engine: 5.9
I'm almost thinking it would be more worth it to just cut them and put new ones in. How big of a pain in the *** is it to cut them? Isn't the weld nut on the inside of the frame rail?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When i did mine,
BP blast x 7days = failed
Impact gun = failed
Breaker bar + extension = failed
Read on if you want this
1)Heat weld nut area for like 10-15 mins (repeat if necessary)
2)Now a breaker bar should get the bolt to break away from the rust on the weld nut
3)PB weld nut/bolt area
4)Tighten bolt
5)Loosen bolt
6)PB
7)Repeat 3-6 until a good portion of the bolt is exposed, unless your bolt is seized to the sleeve, than a good portion of the sleeve would be pushing out the frame as shown below.
8)Heat up the bushing until it melts
9)Grab the sleeve with a good set of vice pliers
10)Loose bolt
11)PB bolt and sleeve area
12)Tighten bolt
13)Repeat 10-12
Your main concern is not to strip the thread on the weld nut.
Bolts replacement can be easily found (M14x2.0x120)
It can achieve, just have to be patient.
GL
BP blast x 7days = failed
Impact gun = failed
Breaker bar + extension = failed
Read on if you want this
1)Heat weld nut area for like 10-15 mins (repeat if necessary)
2)Now a breaker bar should get the bolt to break away from the rust on the weld nut
3)PB weld nut/bolt area
4)Tighten bolt
5)Loosen bolt
6)PB
7)Repeat 3-6 until a good portion of the bolt is exposed, unless your bolt is seized to the sleeve, than a good portion of the sleeve would be pushing out the frame as shown below.
8)Heat up the bushing until it melts
9)Grab the sleeve with a good set of vice pliers
10)Loose bolt
11)PB bolt and sleeve area
12)Tighten bolt
13)Repeat 10-12
Your main concern is not to strip the thread on the weld nut.
Bolts replacement can be easily found (M14x2.0x120)
It can achieve, just have to be patient.
GL
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 0
From: State College, PA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Getting the nut hot might help allot. Also sometimes they get hot from the friction backing them off. If you stop and let it cool....won't help. After wire brushing I might add a little oil, as well as penaterent. (Kroil or PB blaster).
Oh, scratch the wire brush...heat can do wonders^.
Oh, scratch the wire brush...heat can do wonders^.
Last edited by DFlintstone; Mar 26, 2012 at 02:38 PM.
jack handle bro 
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Chicago area
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee(ZJ)
Engine: 5.9
Well, looks like its on to the cutting method for me... just sheared one of those bad boys with nothing more than a half inch ratchet with a 18 inch handle. Jacked up my knuckles real good in the process... any suggestions for how to get that other half out?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Chicago area
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee(ZJ)
Engine: 5.9
Alright so after browsing a little I'm seeing that I should possibly cut into the floor above the bolt and put a new nut in place of the old weld nut. Anyone know what size nut I should be using if my next plan fails?
