So I'm getting ready for the 3rd and final "major" project on the list for my 95 XJ - Leaf springs. Since I've never dealt with leaf springs before, I wanted to get any and all advice that I can and answers to some (hopefully not too too dumb) questions.

My current situation - Saggy, saggy leaf springs - every time I look at them they give me a disapproving slight frown. I also noticed that one of my top rear shock bolts has the head snapped off, so it's just the end of the bolt that's keeping the shock from twisting. I think that these are the original springs, if they are not, they are definitely very very old. I live in the northeast and hence there's a good amount of rust.

My plan - I definitely need to replace the springs and shackles. I'm considering getting the Dorman stock replacement springs from Amazon. They seem to have good reviews, have the bushings pre-installed (which I definitely want) and are pretty inexpensive. I'm leaning towards the Iron Rock boomerang shackles over a stock replacement part based on a recent post and my own research. I would like to keep it totally stock (rather than 1" lift), but I'd rather go up slightly than have to buy 2 sets of shackles and have to replace the shackles a second time and end up with the lift in the end anyway. My current springs/shackles do not knock or bind and I'd like to keep it that way.

I'm going to order new U-bolts and re-use the existing plate. I think I may have to cut off the old bolts since they look pretty firmly seized.

I already ordered a set of take-off Rubicon JK shocks (the red ones) after hearing a ton of folks recommend them and gush over how great they are.

As far as the rear sway bar, my plan is to just eliminate it (per recommendations I've read) and see how it goes. If for whatever reason I change my mind and do want it, I don't see why I couldn't just re-install it later.

My Questions -
Heat - I read a post where someone said the factory bolts are red loctite-ed in and you HAVE to use heat to remove the bolts. Is there any truth to this? My springs very likely ARE original. Beyond that, considering the typical New England rust that I have, I would love to be able to use heat on all the "spring-to-frame" bolts with hope that I will not have to cut into the trunk floor... So CAN I use a torch on the bolts and if so, what safety precautions are needed being the gas tank and fuel lines are close by?? Welding blanket?

Hardware - Is there any reason I couldn't or shouldn't re-use the existing mounting hardware (aside from the U-bolts) when re-installing (assuming I don't break or damage them during removal, obviously)?? If I do break or damage a bolt, are these regular style bolts that I could find at a good hardware store or are they more specialty and if so, what is a good brand/source to use?

Torquing on the ground - I had assumed this did not include the u-bolts, but there was a post today that mentioned u-bolts should be torqued with the vehicle on the ground. So just to be clear, I should hand tighten (snug but not tight) the leaf/shackle-to-frame, the leaf to shackle and the U-bolts - then lower the Jeep and torque everything to spec?? (Shocks too?)

As always, additional tips/tricks/advice is always appreciated.

 

I think you have a good plan. One thing though--there are good stock replacement shackles available, so go that route or, if you're wanting to stay at stock height with slightly longer shackles, use a no-lift shackle relocation kit to fine-tune the height and angle.



OEM springs with visible rust? Heat-yes Cutting-yes. You likely can do this without cutting into the frame, but you will need patience. If you start to get frustrated, walk away and come back. Read through the multiple threads that have tips on removing the leafs and take suggestions and warnings seriously.




Replace what is in bad shape, or you have to damage/cut to get out of there. The u-bolts are the only TTY (torque to yield) bolts back there, so those are the only ones you must replace. I bought all new bolts at the dealership, and I don't regret doing that, because basically all the bolts were cut or damaged to remove. I didn't have to replace any captured nuts, but I did run a tap through them to clean the threads.



Snug everything up with tools, then torque on the ground. I actually usually snug everything up with tools, drive a couple of hundred feet, then torque. That's probably not necessary, but it works for me. If you use anti-seize on threads like you'll probably want to, remember that your torque values will need to be about 1/2 factory torque specs. Don't use antiseize on ubolts. That torque needs to be correct. Check torque specs after driving for a few days.

 

Question #1: When I did my lift I spent a few hours removing the rear leaf spring bolts. My 94 XJ has been a southwest vehicle its whole life with minimal to no rust throughout. However, my rear leaf bolts were rusted and seized into the leaf bushings. This made them almost impossible to break loose with a torch on them. Dont avoid PB Blaster. Once the threads were broken loose the metal bushing sleeve stayed attached to the bolt. How I got around this issue was to remove them as much as possible then take a sawz-all and cut them out of each side of the leaf spring.
Question #2: Beacuse of the above situation I was unable to reuse hardware. I simply replaced them with the same size grade 8 hardware from home depot. It has been over a year of daily driving and weekend abuse with no issues.
Question #3:I got my rear axle lined up where I wanted it pertty tight and then did final tightening on the ground. I waited until it was on the ground to do shocks but did not intentionally do it. Shouldn't matter on or off ground
Final Thoughts: Good Luck and I would recommend on the next oil change go over the hardware you installed verifying tightness.

 

Heat is a necessity when removing the old leaf spring bolts.

 

I missed this. I agree with the above, shocks don't matter. I usually mount them last, after I've torqued down all the spring bolts so there's no possibility of binding.

 

My words of advise - get all the leaf and shackle bolts a little bit loose before putting the Jeep up on jack stands. Jack stands scare me and I dont like cracking very stubborn bolts loose while its up in the air.

 

good advice in this thread... will definitely be making a mental note of this one as I may be doing mine in the not too distant future. Not sagging yet, but not 100% where I'd like to see my stock height XJ sitting.

 

Interesting - excellent advice guys - thanks!!

 

Hey Pat,
You said in your OP that you'd rather keep it at stock height. I'm not aware of any no lift boomerang shackles. I know IRO doesn't. But if your wanting something heavy duty at stock height IRO has these. 0 to 3/4" lift. I'm running a set now set at 0 lift.
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...t-shackle.html

 

Nice - they're running good for you, I assume.

The boomerang shackles are advertised as being advantageous in terms of operation and wear on the springs. Does anyone know how much truth there is in that?

What's the advantage of a heavy duty shackle (like the IRO mentioned) over something like a crown or other OEM style shackles?

 

There doing fine. I got them here in the classifieds for a decent price. Tbone says there are good stock replacement shackles available. Maybe he'll post the details.

My understanding is that boomerang shackles solve the issue of OEM style shackles hitting the back of the shackle box when flexing with longer than OEM leaf springs. Don't know if they're needed for stock length leafs or not or if there are any other advantages using them.

 

I bought my OEM replacement shackles from TeamCherokee.com. They appeared to be every bit as good and thick as the OEM shackles. They didn't have any brand identification when I received them. I'm not going to go out of my way to recommend TeamCherokee, but those shackles are good. If I were to do it again, I think I would probably buy the IRO's the Earl mentioned.


There really is no advantage to boomerang shackles unless you have clearance issues, IMO.

 

Just recently finished doing my front and rear suspension, steering damper, front sway bar end links, front pinion seal, and front axle UV joints.

No heat was required to remove any of the bolts. I used a 24" breaking bar with no problems at all removing the bolts with loc-tite.

I did have to cut the right side leaf spring, and one of the bolts.

The captured nut on the right side broke one of the welds, and moved slightly so I had to cut into the frame to press it back into position before being able to install the new bolt.

The entire left side came out as if it was installed yesterday. Weird that I fought the right side for a few days, and had the left side completely removed in 30 minutes tops.

Chase all the captured nut frame threads with a tap before installing new components.

2 of the 4 bolts holding in my shocks broke, I drilled and hammered out the captured nuts and then used the bracket from Rough Country (worked great too, glad I went with that over feeding bolts through the frame).

I did install my rear sway bar.

I used all factory replacement components from Rock Auto (no suspension lift)

I used KYB shocks.

I didn't realize how terrible my old Jeep suspension was until I test drove it after replacing everything. Night and day difference.

This is not an impossible job, but it can at times be difficult. I broke it up over several days, and when I got tired or frustrated I called it a day. Also, make sure you have good eye protection. Even with me wearing safety glasses, some debris still got in my eye. That sucked.

 

It took me 2 days to get my leaf springs out without doing damage to the vehicle (lost 2 bolts but had replacements ready). It took about 30-40 minutes to have the new springs in.


The Dorman HD shackles are a little expensive, but they have the bonus of coming with bushings and 2 bolts each. The 2 bolts they each come with are the same spec as the leaf spring eye bolts. So the extra cost of the shackles is somewhat made up for by providing a couple of spare bolts should any of the leaf eye bolts need to be cut during removal.


Here is a video I did during the job. It is not as detailed as I would have liked. But perhaps it will have a few pointers that help you.

 

Good point, the Dorman shackles do come with bolts so that saved me from buying new ones as I did have to cut one and the others were just ugly and rusted.