I find this is usually the case with any vehicle. The right side suspension takes more abuse from water, sand, dirt, salt etc. on the shoulder side of the road.


I suppose if that theory is correct, in the U.K. there is the opposite effect.

 

Yes, you definitely want that.

Dunno a thing about them, but I'll offer this observation: I have seen Dorman, Crown, and OEM shackles side by side. The Crown are an exact copy, and the Dorman are much cheaper, lighter construction. Thinner metal, less weld.




Absolutely true.



Use Grade 8. It's a great opportunity to refresh critical safety hardware. For the few bucks it will cost, why would you not?

 

How do you find metric grade 8 hardware? The stock hardware is rated 10.9, which is the metric equivalent of grade 8. I had to go with Mopar because no hardware store anywhere near me carried M14x2.0x120 bolts. The Mopar bolts are also necked-down so they shouldn't seize to the bushing sleeves as readily.

 

Rockauto carries Mopar leafspring bolts (but not the nuts). I just bought a couple last week. This is a trick i use all the time:

Click "Part Number Search" and put 34202118 in the part # box. Go to "Manufacturer" and select Mopar. Hit "Search".

A majority of Mopar parts ive bought there, and some i didnt, only show up using this trick. They do not show up using the "Parts Catalog". You just need to find the proper part #. I bought a 97-98 XJ parts catalog for mine (from Rockauto) so i have it easy.

 

I'm in the middle of replacing my suspension as well. Ironically all the bolts I was told or read about that would be bad haven't been at all so far. My front leaf spring bolts came out about an inch and a half so it seems the nut is still welded fine. Seems now their just held by leaf spring pressure. M14 x 2.0 x 120mm I was able to source from Fastenal. So I feel a lot better about cutting bolts if I need to now.

 

Fastenal.

Nutsandbolts.com

Other places online.

 

Metric can be grade 8.8 which is closer to grade 5, and as said before grade 10.9 metric is equal to grade 8 standard.

 

Ive had to deal with stuck front leaf bolts on an XJ, and being that i restore vintage Mustangs for a living... yeah me and rusted leaf springs have a special relationship.

There's two different ways for that bolt to be stuck on an XJ.

1) It's stuck in the welded frame nut. It's gonna feel stuck at first regardless, but if it wont break loose with reasonable effort, dont go for the 5ft cheater pipe. That'll break that welded nut loose. Rent/borrow/steal an impact. If its adjustable, med power. Hit it for a minute, stop. Repeat. Again and again and again. Eventually it will break loose.

2) It breaks loose, turns some, but wont back out. This means it's not stuck in the nut, but the bolt is rusted stuck to the metal sleeve in the front eye bushing. Cutoff wheel. Unbolt the spring from the axle plate and shackle, then cut the spring off as close the the "loop" as possible. Toss the spring. Then youll be able to rotate the front eye loop around. Cut it again on the opposite side, the spring loop can be pried off in two halves now. Repeat process with the bushing. The inner sleeve has a seam. An impact hammer helps here, but a hammer & chisel will do just fine. Split the seam. Once you spread it a bit, the bolt will come out with minimal drama.

I posted pics of this joyous task somewhere on here, ill try to find em.

I have a lift. On jack stands... my sympathies.

 

My fronts backed out a little over an inch but now feel pinched by the spring weight as I can't move them any further out and they spin in place. Do they sound far enough out that the welded nut is safe for me to cut the bolt without getting irrationally upset at forum advice?

 

Well if youve unbolted it from everything else, you should be able to wiggle the spring and slide the bolt out. If not, this is probably in your future...


If its free of the welded nut, and IF its not stuck in the sleeve, there literally no reason to cut the bolt. If it is stuck in the sleeve, cutting the bolt wont get you anywhere.

 

I would try raising and lowering the axle with a jack - or better yet, cut the old spring and then there's no tension... just be careful it doesn't whack you when it lets go.

My plan will be to do what I did when I was doing my clutch - jack stands high up under the frame rail and a second set under the axle and then use the floor jack to fine tune the height (either centered or on the ends depending on the need.

Edit - I have to think you're hung up with Twisted's #2 gotcha. Cut that f'r off!!

 

^ This is what I meant. Use grade 10.9, not 8.8 in metric, or you will be downgrading from stock. Come to think of it, they may have been metric 9.8, but the same still applies. Regardless, you shouldn't be using metric "grade 8" hardware, nor does it exist.

 

Here's another way to deal with the bolt/sleeve issue. Of course this'll only work if the bolt backs out far enough. Turn the bolt/sleeve until you can see the split in the sleeve. Use a small chisel (or something) to spread open the split as much as possible. Spray in to the split with PB Blaster (or acetone and tranny fluid). Work bolt around a bit and go do something else for a while. Do this every so often. If need be keep moving the spring in towards the frame to expose more of the split. Harder to explain than to do.

 

Re: Hardware (M14x2.0x120mm)

So I too have a parts catalog and verified that the part number fb97xj1 specified is correct for all 3 (front, rear, spring/shackle) locations (as well as a bunch of other places on the Jeep).

I hit the local hardware store on the way to work this AM and they have 10.9 M14x2.0 bolts, but the longest size they sell is 90mm. In Grade 8.8 they have 100mm. I don't know if it's because we have a lot of awesome hardware stores (with a great selection of nuts and bolts), but I've found the local Home Depot/Lowes type stores totally useless when looking for hardware. Their selection is abysmal and their prices are high.

Therefore, I ordered 6 of the Mopar 34202118 bolts off of Rockauto using the part number. Total cost with shipping was about $45. Hopefully the actual bolts are in better condition than the image portrays..

Fastenal does sell the 10.9 grade M14x2.0x120mm bolts, but they were not really any cheaper than the Mopar. It's unfortunate since a very good friend used to manage the Fastenal store near where I work. I don't know if they stock these bolts, but if anyone is in desperate need of hardware, I'd definitely recommend calling your local Fastenal.

Buying all 6 bolts was a little more than I was hoping to spend on hardware, but at least I know that I won't have to run out to the hardware store or dealership in the middle of the job and worse case scenario I have some extra hardware that isn't limited to 1 specific spot on the Jeep.

 

That's about what they cost me at the local dealer, and I felt the same way.

Those same bolts are used on the control arms in front, BTW.

The Fastenal in my area sucks, unfortunately.