Knocking Noise in Suspension
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
From: Vail, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey guys I was wondering if anyone had any answers to a knocking noise in my suspension. I put a 4.5 lift on it with control arm drop brackets and transfer case drop a couple weeks ago. But a knocking noise just started when I slow down to a complete stop and then again when I take off again after a stop light. I thought it was the control arms having play in them so I tightened them up with a 8,000 lb. air gun and then tightened up the adjustment bolts but it still makes the knocking noise.
Anyone have any ideas what else to check. Could it be worn out sway bar bushings?
Anyone have any ideas what else to check. Could it be worn out sway bar bushings?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
From: Vail, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah I already went over everything tonight. Sway bar links were about a complete turn loose. But other than that everything wasnt too bad. New track bar though? It only has 80,000 on it and only like another 200 miles after I put the lift on.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 772
Likes: 5
From: pa
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
but did you put an adjustable track bar on with the lift? i would think you would have to have done something there or your axle would be way off center
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,127
Likes: 2
From: Hell, CA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
With that much lift and a lot of times with evven a smaller lift, you need either a longer or adjustable track bar. In lifting your vehicle you are moving the axle away from your vehicle.
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 772
Likes: 5
From: pa
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
if the track bar is not parallel with the drag link (for example,using a relocation bracket on the track bar or drop pitman arm) it will absolutely cause bumpsteer...but it's not the only cause
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,735
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From: Metro Denver, CO
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
If it's coming from the back, it could be the leaf bushings, mine make a lot of noise.
If everything is tight and it's not causing any problems, I'd just leave it be. Jeeps are by far one of the noisiest vehicles I've ever driven.
If everything is tight and it's not causing any problems, I'd just leave it be. Jeeps are by far one of the noisiest vehicles I've ever driven.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
I say Track Bar if you didn't install a new adjustable one with a 4.5 inch lift. I never did see where you answered that question. The sway bar busjings can cause a popping sound to happen under acceleration and braking. If you're driving that XJ with a stock track bar in the stock mounting points with a 4.5" lift, that thing is a ticking time bomb. Especially if it's being driven at highway speeds regularly. Your transfer case lowering kit will help with vibes from the rear slip yoke, HOWEVER, there is a part 2, to a anti-vibe kit. Along with your TC lowering kit, you also have to have a set of 4 degree axle shims between your rear axle pads and your rear leaf springs to optimise for anti-vibe efforts.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
From: Vail, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I say Track Bar if you didn't install a new adjustable one with a 4.5 inch lift. I never did see where you answered that question. The sway bar busjings can cause a popping sound to happen under acceleration and braking. If you're driving that XJ with a stock track bar in the stock mounting points with a 4.5" lift, that thing is a ticking time bomb. Especially if it's being driven at highway speeds regularly. Your transfer case lowering kit will help with vibes from the rear slip yoke, HOWEVER, there is a part 2, to a anti-vibe kit. Along with your TC lowering kit, you also have to have a set of 4 degree axle shims between your rear axle pads and your rear leaf springs to optimise for anti-vibe efforts.
Last edited by blank87; Jan 14, 2009 at 12:32 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,661
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From: Smiths Station, Al
Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0 I6
with a 4.5 in lift just redrilling a different location is a band aid. Moving it that far over will be a weak point. Anything over 3 inches you really should buy an adjustable track bar. Prolly should consider adjustable control arms also.
ONce you move past a 3in lift there are alot more stock parts that need to be replaced if you don't want to have problems and break on the trails.
Partially the reason why I am still at 3 gotta save up more money to move to 4.5
ONce you move past a 3in lift there are alot more stock parts that need to be replaced if you don't want to have problems and break on the trails.
Partially the reason why I am still at 3 gotta save up more money to move to 4.5
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
From: Vail, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
with a 4.5 in lift just redrilling a different location is a band aid. Moving it that far over will be a weak point. Anything over 3 inches you really should buy an adjustable track bar. Prolly should consider adjustable control arms also.
ONce you move past a 3in lift there are alot more stock parts that need to be replaced if you don't want to have problems and break on the trails.
Partially the reason why I am still at 3 gotta save up more money to move to 4.5
ONce you move past a 3in lift there are alot more stock parts that need to be replaced if you don't want to have problems and break on the trails.
Partially the reason why I am still at 3 gotta save up more money to move to 4.5
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