Kickin' a dead horse - Renix Closed -> Open swap parts list
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 331
Likes: 14
From: Dallas, Texas
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0L
Went down to the ole Autozone today and picked up the replacement thermostat housing, "oooo, shineey".
Timed myself, 29 mins start to finish changing it out...and that included my dumb *** having to do it twice because I actually *forgot* the thermostat the first time...ugh. What a dummy lol.
She's running like a top and even running cooler too!
After I got it replaced I got it on level ground and checked the ATF fluid. It's right in middle but does look at little darker than I'd like...got another task next weekend!
Thanks for all your help fellas!
-Matt
Timed myself, 29 mins start to finish changing it out...and that included my dumb *** having to do it twice because I actually *forgot* the thermostat the first time...ugh. What a dummy lol.
She's running like a top and even running cooler too!
After I got it replaced I got it on level ground and checked the ATF fluid. It's right in middle but does look at little darker than I'd like...got another task next weekend!
Thanks for all your help fellas!
-Matt
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 331
Likes: 14
From: Dallas, Texas
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0L
Thought I'd update this thread for future people searching with the complete parts list required for the Renix Closed to Open conversion.
S/F,
-Matt
Last edited by MayerMR; Jan 31, 2016 at 09:18 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,821
Likes: 61
From: Pasquotank, NC
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My 90's radiator is leaking. Looking to do this swap and ran across this thread in my research. Looks like a lot of good info. Anything else to add? Looking to refresh the entire coolant system while I am in there as a precaution and upgrade any weak links also.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The water pump tube as noted in the post above. But only if you are replacing the pump because you can't install it with the pump bolted on the engine.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,821
Likes: 61
From: Pasquotank, NC
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
From MayerMR's notes it appears the benefit of replacing the water pump tube is to replace a corroded existing piece? Are there any other benefits? The water pump is only about 5 years old.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Renix didn't have the tube. If you add it, the later heater hose fits a little nicer and the clamp is easy to get to.
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Well great news! Did the install today and I can definitely state that I over-estimated the amount of complexity that would be involved in the switchover.
I've only had two hiccups; 1) I somehow cracked the thermostat housing when tightening the bottom bolt. It leaks pretty badly when running so I wasn't even able to let it get up to temperature to put the additional coolant/distilled water into the system. Pretty easy fix though. And 2) I absolutely destroyed one of the fan nuts getting it off. I think the clutch is gone anyway, so I'll be upgrading to a dual electric fan when funds avail themselves. That said, I need to find another nut until then I 'reckon.
Lastly, I didn't loose a single *drop* of ATF fluid during the changeover. I checked the dipstick tube and it was completely dry. I did not add anymore just yet because my driveway is on a fairly steep incline and the front is elevated, so I want to wait to check again before I add additional fluid.
All-in-all though, this was a very very easy changeover and I'll have piece of mind now that I've flooded both the heater core and the engine with fresh water. I wasn't able to fully drain the engine after flooding it with the hose, so I'll probably end up testing the coolant to ensure I have the proper mixture before too long.
Attachment 310638
I've only had two hiccups; 1) I somehow cracked the thermostat housing when tightening the bottom bolt. It leaks pretty badly when running so I wasn't even able to let it get up to temperature to put the additional coolant/distilled water into the system. Pretty easy fix though. And 2) I absolutely destroyed one of the fan nuts getting it off. I think the clutch is gone anyway, so I'll be upgrading to a dual electric fan when funds avail themselves. That said, I need to find another nut until then I 'reckon.
Lastly, I didn't loose a single *drop* of ATF fluid during the changeover. I checked the dipstick tube and it was completely dry. I did not add anymore just yet because my driveway is on a fairly steep incline and the front is elevated, so I want to wait to check again before I add additional fluid.
All-in-all though, this was a very very easy changeover and I'll have piece of mind now that I've flooded both the heater core and the engine with fresh water. I wasn't able to fully drain the engine after flooding it with the hose, so I'll probably end up testing the coolant to ensure I have the proper mixture before too long.
Attachment 310638