And now...the rest of the story.

 

Paul Harvey.

Back up to speed... removed ALL the bulbs from the right side markers, front and rear, #7 fuse still pops.

ALL bulbs out + front C106 disconnected = #7 fuse blows

All bulbs out + front C106 disco'd + C7 disc'd = #7 NOT BLOWN

All bulbs IN + front C106 Connected + C7 disc'd = all marker lights working and #7 NOT BLOWN

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So its on the C7 circuit.... How should I proceed from here Ken?

What does that isolate it down to?

 

Do you have a factory, or aftermarket, trailer tow wiring?

If not, look towards the Left Tail Lamp circuit and the License Plate Lamp circuit.

Remove the Left Tail Lamp bulb and examine the socket for evidence of corrosion or other defects that may cause a short. Do the same with the License Plate Lamp. Leave the bulbs out and see if the fuse blows.

The power wire to the Left Tail Lamp is Brown, and power wire to the License Plate Lamp is Black with a Yellow tracer.

If the fuse still blows, there may be a short in the License Plate Lamp wiring that goes to the tail gate. This wiring passes through the rubber boot (don't know which one) that goes from the body to the tail gate. Many wiring problems have been found in this area (chafing).

Edit: How do the pin cavities in C7 look? Any corrosion?

 

If you want, you cn isolate the Left Tail Lamp and License Plate Lamp circuits by disconnecting their connectors behind the spare tire rack. See pic below.

The Left Tail Lamp connector is C322. It's an 8 pin connector with 8 wires going to it.

The License Plate Lamp connector is C327. It's a 6 pin connector with 5 wires going to it.

I marked the connector locations on the body. Did this a couple of years ago thinking I may need this info in the future.

The "G" designators are the grounds.

Reconnect C7.

Unplug the connectors one at a time to see if the fuse blows.

 

You never did answer this question...

"Do you have a factory, or aftermarket, trailer tow wiring?"

If you have factory trailer tow wiring, the connector for it is C323, which is located near C322, shown above. It's an 8 pin connector with 8 wires going in and out of it.

 

It has an aftermarket Drawtite hitch wiring box spliced in (not done by me), but it also has a fuse in #20. So, I'm not sure if they still added that fuse when it didnt have the factory option or?

There's no other sign of a factory tow package. I will check the connectors you posted and isolated it down further.... I might also just unhook this old splice job on the trailer wiring convertor box too... maybe its gone defective?

edit:
C7 looks real clean too... no corrosion at all. Even the C106 looked clean under the hood.

 

ALL IS FIXED - It was the hack splice job on Drawtite trailer wiring harness. I removed it, repaired the exposed wires and all is good.

I would like to thank you Ken for walking me through this!

On another note, I do have a 5 pin connector with 5 wires in between the C322 and C327 connectors. Could this be trailer wiring or??? Also to the Right of all 3, is a large single pin with a light blue wire with nothing connecting into that?

 

Glad to see you got that squared away.

That connector between C322 and C327 is C326 (marked in my photo above). It's for the Liftgate Lock Motor, Cargo Lamp Switch, via the Liftgate Switch, Rear Window Defogger, and the High Mounted Stop Lamp Switch.

I have no idea what that connector with the light blue wire is for.

 

im having the same issue, when i pull the plug from the pass side fuse block, the fuse doesnt blow, so ive isolated it to the rear, i have gone through and unplugged all the harnesses in the rear drivers side kick panel, still blows fuse, where could it be? somwhere between the kick panel fuse block and those rear harnesses, but where can i start?

 

Hey y'all, I have read through this thread but struggling to make sense of why my fuse #7 would be blowing out. The two things that are not working are my driver-side running day tail light and the turn signal running light. When I press my brake the tail light goes on and when I put my turn signal on it blinks so it is just the running lights not working on the driver's side. I am attaching both photos of my fuse box and junction box, I don't know if something is missing from wither of them (besides the $7 as I took that out).

Appreciate any of the help I can get. I have never worked with fuses or electrical stuff besides adding a light bar connected straight to my battery so still learning how fuses work and their grounds.