Try opening all the doors, including the hatch then hit the lock switch.

Edit: Above with C7 hooked up. Don't close up the JB right now.

 

just saw the post now , just tried it with all the doors open hit the remote and lock operated tried to open it and blew the fuse?? . I have to have a wire touching somewhere? Bill, oh I did take the rear panels off and checked those wires also looked clean I do not think anybody has ever been in those panels??

 

Are you saying that with the doors open it will lock and not blow the fuse but will blow the fuse when you hit Open?

 

Yes I put new fuse in with doors open and hit remote it closed went to open and fuse blew..

 

Odd.

Seems as though the fault is in the Unlock circuit this time but the original problem was in the Lock circuit.

Go back to the drawing of the C7 pinout and the diagram that shows all the lock motors. Check the door unlock circuit again. Set your Ohmmeter to 20K (20,000) Ohms, Check from pin socket 5 on the C7 connector to ground. Report any decimal point in the reading.

Do you have an O'Reilly Auto Parts around you? THey have those blow and glow type mini fuses that ligh up when the fuse blows. Makes it easier to check the fuse. Use 25 Amp fuses this time.

Try closing the doors one at a time and hitting Lock each time and see if it changes anything.

 

Thanks Ken, at work right no be home in a little while car is at home, no o`reily around here I am in Long Island N.Y. . The fuse is the same shape as those mini fuse but reg size ?? They make a circuit breaker for that or test breaker we have an advance auto would stop and get it? Also I have not been using 25 amp fuses could only find 20 amp not sure if that matters.. this morning with the c7 plugged into the jb I put fuse in and as soon as it hit the contacts in jb it blew did not touch any switches and key off , I also had the drivers door harness unplugged at the kick panel on drivers side , all three plugs..just inserted fuse and it blew immediately.. Was just trying to totally eliminate that door.. Bill

 

Fuse 15 is powered directly off the battery.

When you reconnected C7 to the JB you reconnected all the door motors.

Maybe you should disconnect all the door lock motors, including the liftgate, and see if the fuse blows with C7 connected. If the fuse doesn't blow, reconnect the motors one at a time and see if the fuse blows. The motor circuit you connected that blew the fuse is the bad guy.

 

Ok that sounds like a plan I know that it is not the driver door as i tried that this morning are you pretty confident it is a door lock?? does it matter if I use a 25 amp fuse or is a 20 amp ok?? Do you know if they make some kind of test breaker I could buy., it would be worth it to invest in it?? So just to try to work this out in my head., the power comes directly from the battery to fuse # 15 from their it feeds the pass door and works it`s way around all the way to the drivers door? Sorry for all the questions just trying to break it down in my head ,Thanks for your patience.. Bill

 

Ken you are the man!!!! I did as you said and was able to isolate it to the rear hatch,or liftgate. .. And as you suggested yesterday the wire has a break in it (both pink& bk and orange and black).,I did not see it yesterday it is a real easy fix just going to solider it back togethet shrink wrap it and that is it.. It was shorting where it goes through the body wrapped in that nylon netting and into the liftgate itself.. As you suggested yesterday, should have listened lol but at least it is finally fixed..All I did was seperate them and it works perfect!! I can not thank you enough it was really driving me crazy!! I hope other members are reading this and not as stubborn as me they will save themselves alot of headache... I wish I could ad pictures but don`t know how when my son comes home maybe I will have him try, Hats off to Ken again not the first time you helped me out I really appreciate it.. Thanks again

 

Remember when you disconnected C7 the first time and it didn't blow the fuse, and you could operate the passenger lock using your remote. If you look at the diagram again you'll see that when you disconnected C7 you isolated all the door locks except the passenger door lock. I would think that the short is in the door lock motor circuits somewhere.

By disconnecting all the door lock motors and reconnecting them one at a time until the fuse blows would isolate that circuit so you could look into it further - or leave that door lock motor disconnected forever

If, after disconnecting all the motors it still blows the fuse you'll need to look into the wiring closer.

You can still continue to use a 20 Amp fuse for trouble shooting, which is better than a higher rated fuse...but wait...if you bridged the fuse holder with a piece of wire then the short would eventually cook the wire and emit smoke. All you'd have to do then is sniff around and find the smoking wire, thus the source of the short.

They do make self resetting circuit breakers that fit mini fuse sockets, but I don't think you want that while chasing down a short. If you could find those blow & glow type fuses it would help in that you wouldn't need to be constantly removing the fuse to see if it's blown.

 

Thanks again Ken , I think I will just leave the 20 amp in their for now untill they restock the 25`s .. Are you kidding about the wire across the legs I would be afraid of causing a fire ?? I am sure you would find it fast?/, But what you said about the wire breaking or shorting where it goes through one (body) to another (door and or hatch) really made sense so I went back and started looking again and that was the most likely place.. and sure enough you were spot on!! guess I needed to sleep on it? < walked away from it last night lol I am learning... Owe you two, Bill

 

Of course I was kidding about jumping the fuse holder with wire.

Are you saying you found chafed wire(s)?

 

I figured you were kidding lol!! Yes I found the wires had a bear spot and were touching each other both pink and orange wires soliderd them back together shrink wraped and good to go they were in the nylon netting that I recovered them with. Works great now ... thanks again Bill

 

Well...where were these wires located?

 

Sorry ken just noticed your post now The wires were coming out of the upper rear of car going into the lifgate., I wisjh I could post a picture but not sure how to do it?? But glad it is done>> Thank you for all the help , Bill