seven

Having a problem with the power door lock fuse pass.side on a 2001 cherokee sport?? . This is another project I have been working on and thought I had all the kinks worked out (mainly mech . rebuilt engine , new head) ?? lol guess not ., anyway the locks were working I went for another drive parked at the store was walking away hit the keyfob and nothing??. Also nothing on the inside only worked with the key or manually .When I got home I started with the fuses and found fuse # 15 a 25 amp fuse located on pass side interior kick panel . As soon as I put fuse in it pop`s ? I removed door panel and switch put another fuse in and it poped again?? .Anybody have any ideas ?? I am guessing it would probally be a cut wire somewhere for the lock`s the windows do work and do not seem to be affected.. Is the pass side the master switch or is it the drivers side? I am thinking I should start with the wires that run from the door to the body seems like it would be a good place to start?? Any suggestion`s ?? Thanks Bill

seven

Hi guy`s went through the pass.side door harness actually removed it from jeep and put on table inspected it and it all looks good ?? no cuts no rubs ?? if you put that fuse in it will snap immediately?? and the locks do not work with the switch only manuelly .. Can anybody tell me if I am looking in the right direction ?? I am guessing the power comes from the pass side and works around to feed the drivers side or is that backwards?? Thanks again Bill

CCKen

Power from F15 (25 Amp) does go through the passenger switch to the drivers switch.

If the windows work okay it may be the driver's lock motor that's defective. Try disconnecting the lock motor and see if the fuse still blows.

seven

Ok Thanks ken, I know you know your stuff when it comes to wiring, anyway the fuse does not blow or pop unless I use the switch?? I had a few extra fuses but now have to go and get some .. So, I should remove drivers door panel and just disconnect drivers side lock solenoid at rear of door or disconnect the plug from back of drivers power switch?? not really sure what you mean?? Thanks again I really appreciate the help, Bill

seven

I tried disconnecting the solenoid same results the fuse keeps poping?/ also tried taking the plug out same results ., I guess I should inspect the drivers side harness to look for any broken or frayed wires..

CCKen

Assumption: Fuse blows only when the drivers door lock switch is depressed - correct? And not with any other door lock switch, including the remote keyless entry - correct?

When I mentioned the driver's door lock motor, I overlooked all the other door locks. Look at the diagrams below and you can see that, with the exception of the passenger door lock motor, all the door lock motors are wired in parallel. Any one of the door lock motors could be causing a problem when the driver's door lock switch is depressed.

To isolate all the motors except the passenger motor, connector C7 can be disconnected from the Junction Block. See JB pic. You'll have to remove the entire cover off the JB to get to C7.

If the fuse still blows then the problem is in the wiring upstream of C7.

Door lock diagrams:





JB:



R&R of JB cover:

seven

Ok ., I disconnected the c7 as you were saying and the pass. lock now works from the remote and also from the door switch., the factory remote seems to be working as it should it will sound the horn and lock the pass door only , it will also open it as it should?? I have operated it at least 10 times and it still has not poped the fuse none of the other locks are working only manually?/ .Also I am only using 20 amp fuses I know it calls for a 25 but all I had.. Am I making head way?? lol hope you have another tip?? lol Bill

CCKen

That sort of isolates it to the other door lock circuits doesn't it. Note that the passenger motor doesn't go through C7.

I'm looking at the C7 pinout to see if there is a way to check the circuits for short to ground. There's only two pins in C7 for the locks, pin 1 and pin 5. Maybe you could check for short to ground in the door unlock driver circuit (pin 5) by using an Ohmmeter and probing (+) pin 5 and to chassis ground with (-). If you read continuity there is a short in one of the lock motor circuits. Repeat using pin 1 (door lock driver).

I'll have to scan the C7 pinoutout and post it for you to reference. In the mean time, study the diagram.

Aside: How did the pins and pin cavities in C7 look. Was there any corrosion visible. Did you see any corrosion in the JB at all?

CCKen

Here's C7 pinout. You're looking at the body harness connector.

I've colored pin cavitiuies 1 and 5.

Note in the function list there are other circuits going through that connector.

Back to the diagram that shows all the lock motors; Note the liftgate lock motor. There have been many cases of the wires for the liftgate contained in the two wire looms at the top of the liftgate getting chafed by operating the gate many times over the years. Take a look at the looms and see if there is evidence that the loom has chafed through to the wires.

Edit:

The pinout. LOL

seven

Thanks Ken , The connections look very clean , do not see any corrision by the jb or on any of the plugs including c7?? I took the rear liftgate cover off and all the wireing seems clean and undisturbed.. I guess I should pop off the rear door panels and look for any breaks ?/ I was thinking I could probably isolate bad lock solenoid if that is problem by unplugging them one by one I would have to sacrifice more fuses?? Thanks again, Bill

CCKen

The wiring usually get damaged in the looms going between the body and the liftgate itself. Where they flex constantly when the gate is opened and closed.

Do you have an Ohmmeter that you could use to check for shorts in the lock/unlock circuits like I explained above? You really want to do some testing before blowing the Heep apart and eating fuses.

seven

Yes I do have an ohmmeter I have to try to figure out that diagram I am pretty much a novice at wiring , better with mechanical I am going to try to test it hopefully I am reading it correctly??

seven

I tried using my multi meter (actron auto analyzer from pep boys) , hopefully I used it correctly I set it to2000 ohms.. pin number 0ne an orange wire with a black stripe wire read 002 and pin # 5 a pink wire with a black stripe read 001 I checked them several times and always had the same reading. I hope I am using it correctly the pos. went to a pin and the neg went to a good ground I used the dashboard mount bolt.. Do these numbers seem correct or should I have all zero`s?? Thanks Bill

CCKen

I suppose those readings look okay because you're reading four circuits. If any were shorted to ground you would see close to, if not, full continuity. This may mean that all the door motor circuits are okay.

I may have missed it, but did you visually check the wires going from the driver's door, through the rubber loom and into the body structure for broken/chafer wires.

seven

yes I actually removed it from jeep opened it up inspected it and it was in good shape even the speaker wires were fine.. I did have that problem on my son`s car but it was the ground that was cut and the windows did not operate .. I have removed them before I have read that it is usually a problem area it was the first place I started. not really sure which way to go now?? Could it be in the rear doors ?? I have never heard of a problem their but who knows??