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Jeep overheating (one thing after another...)

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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 07:33 PM
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Default Jeep overheating (one thing after another...)

While wheeling my 00 XJ overheated and it looked like coolant / oil was coming down from the head/block joint. Also my oil dipstick looked like it was dipped in chocolate milk. This pointed to a blown head gasket to me... I replaced the head gasket and METICULOUSLY checked for the dreaded 0331 crack in the head. (in all the ones I've seen you can see a little hairline crack) I found nothing after scouring it with carb cleaner and a brush for over 2 hours. Put everything back to gether, did an oil change and coolant flush(prestone flush for 2 days, then all new coolant)

Fast forward to today. almost 2 weeks later... (after running absolutely perfect) The jeep overheats while driving home from work, and my oil is milky again... Oil level is HIGH and coolant level is LOW... This to me points toward me having the cracked head issue. I let it cool down and burped the system... it took almost a gallon of water. I have checked for a coolant leak elsewhere to no avail... I had a blonde moment while changing my oil and forgot to change the damn filter... which COULD be why my oil is still milky, but all these problems combined is pointing me towards the head crack issue.

Anyone have any insight? I called all the local junkyards and NONE have the newer revised heads. One has one out of a 98 XJ but this doesn't have the coil mounts and such correct?

Should I bite the bullet and order a head from alabama/clearwater? Or take the damn thing apart again and have it pressure tested? I'm at a loss with this thing It's been one problem after another as of late. I could use a little guidance.

Thanks in advance
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 08:07 PM
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When you pulled the head the first time did you check to see if it was warped? Since you said you checked it for crack and nothing about it being warped. Also Since you over heated it the first time I have a bad feeling that now you will find a crack in the head.
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 08:43 PM
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Remove the valve cover & pump up the cooling system to 16 psi, see what happens.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 03:18 PM
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I'm just going to put on a new head. These 00's (0331 head) are notorious for this. I got a smokin' deal on a fully machined TUPY head from an 03 4.0 I'm gonna put on. Should be here Friday.

Wish me luck guys. lol.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 04:22 PM
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Might want to investigate a little more, if the block is cracked you will still have issues.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
Might want to investigate a little more, if the block is cracked you will still have issues.

Care to expand on "block is cracked" ? lol Ive never heard of a 4 liter engine cracking anywhere but the head... And if it was it wouldn't it be running like crap? It runs perfectly fine.


btw since finding this problem ive changed my oil 4 times... and did so once again today making five. my new head should be here tomorrow or friday. and im not driving teh jeep unless i have to.

Last edited by AZSnake98; Feb 19, 2014 at 04:56 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 05:10 PM
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The engine block, like the cylinder head, is a hollow piece of cast iron cooled by liquid enough heat in the right place it will crack like glass. With your multiple over-heats and adulterated oil a new engine/complete rebuild may be the only worthwhile fix.
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 06:29 PM
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Got the head today... Dude sent me he exact head I already have. all of the pictures in the ebay ad showed a TUPY stamped head. The head I received is clearly not the one advertised. Opened a dispute.


FLAMING mad right now.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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Guy is sending out the actual head from the auction. Should be here tomorrow...


On a side note, if anyone wants some chocolate milk... I just changed my oil and i have about 7 quarts of it.

LMK...
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 09:48 PM
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Keep a close eye on the oil pressure gauge. Might want to have oil pressure tested/verified with a mechanical oil pressure test gauge. Hopefully crank/rod/cam bearings survived the water. When bearing tolerances/clearances increase, oil pressure decreases. Good luck (fingers crossed).
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by djb383
Keep a close eye on the oil pressure gauge. Might want to have oil pressure tested/verified with a mechanical oil pressure test gauge. Hopefully crank/rod/cam bearings survived the water. When bearing tolerances/clearances increase, oil pressure decreases. Good luck (fingers crossed).
Yea I've been watching that closely. Oil pressure has remained the same and constant.

Got the new head today after work... One of the BRAND NEW head bolts snapped before I even hit 110lbs... now I have to find a way to get the remainder of the bolt out of the hole... gonna try EZ-out and PB blaster tomorrow..

I swear this thing is gonna be the death of me...
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 04:06 PM
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Wow! That sucks. I saw your thread and was gonna say the same thing... bite the bullet and get a new head. I have an 00 and had to do the same thing. Didn't break a bolt though, ouch!
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 04:30 PM
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Just an update:

Got the broken bolt out. Ended up taking the head off AGAIN and got lucky, a piece of the bolt was sticking out of the block so I just used vise grips.

Got the fresh TUPY head installed and she runs like a champ. Absolutely no coolant loss no overheating no milky oil. While I was at it, I did a double bottle Risolone engine flush to try and flush any remaining gunky/milky oil out. Going to do one final oil change and a complete coolant flush today and I think I'm home free.

Thanks for all the responses guys.

EDIT: Just for anyone who is counting, I did a total of 7 oil changes including the one I'm about to do... in the last 400 miles. LMAO.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 06:02 PM
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Also, for anyone with these ****ty 0331 heads... UPGRADE BEFORE YOURS CRACK. The swap is not hard whatsoever just a little time consuming. Anyone with basic mechanical skills can do this. Just make sure you torque everything to spec. The internet is BRIMMING with information on torque sequences and specs.

I know when you pop that hood, and look down at it, it can seem daunting, but don't be afraid to get in there and get dirty. You can save yourself a boatload of money in labor costs.

If anyone has any questions on the swap or where to purchase upgraded heads feel free to PM me.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 01:51 PM
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Did you flush the radiator separatly from the rest of the system? as the return of the milky goo may have come from the rad, flush the entire system with a low foam washing detergent and run untill hot then take it for a quick 10 min drive and flush out the crap and repeat if needed then new coolant and jobs a good un.
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