Jeep Newbie..."New" 2000!
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
"New" 2000--ONLY 64K miles!!
Hi all,
Looks like a great forum--I am eager to learn from all of you.
I have wanted Jeep Cherokee for a long time and finally found one I couldn't pass on. It's a 2000 Cherokee Sport (XJ?), 4x4, 4.0L-I6. It has been in someone's garage for most of it's life and has only 64K miles on it! It even has a sunroof I wasn't looking for! Everything is stock, although I just replaced the steering stab with a Monroe after quickly learning on the dirt road I live on that it was required badly! LOL Incidentally, that really sucked getting that tapered bolt out to replace the stabilizer! One hour of BP Blaster, and a Pitman Arm puller worked though. Now for the fused-on rotors! LOL
I had a full, private inspection done on this vehicle, and they said I got a great deal--nothing wrong, no codes, no rust, fluids all good, no leaks. The only known probs I have with this Jeep are slightly pulsing rotors, a slight vibration when idling at a stop (drive or shift to N, and vibration goes away), and a driver's door speaker that doesn't work (I assume wire bundle in hinge area rubbed).
It sometimes needs a second or third turn of the ignition to go though--I'm thinking distributor cap and wires need replacing--it has a fairly new battery. At 64K miles, seems cap and wires is normal--sound right? What about rotor and guts? Any distributor info recommendations are appreciated.
I am hopeful that down the road, I can get some 31" BFG ATs on it after a 2-3" lift.
After reading some other posts, seems like I need to put some recovery points on her as well as this will be my bowhunting chariot!
Best regards everyone and thanks for reading and responding!
Dan
AKA-Squirrely
Looks like a great forum--I am eager to learn from all of you.
I have wanted Jeep Cherokee for a long time and finally found one I couldn't pass on. It's a 2000 Cherokee Sport (XJ?), 4x4, 4.0L-I6. It has been in someone's garage for most of it's life and has only 64K miles on it! It even has a sunroof I wasn't looking for! Everything is stock, although I just replaced the steering stab with a Monroe after quickly learning on the dirt road I live on that it was required badly! LOL Incidentally, that really sucked getting that tapered bolt out to replace the stabilizer! One hour of BP Blaster, and a Pitman Arm puller worked though. Now for the fused-on rotors! LOL
I had a full, private inspection done on this vehicle, and they said I got a great deal--nothing wrong, no codes, no rust, fluids all good, no leaks. The only known probs I have with this Jeep are slightly pulsing rotors, a slight vibration when idling at a stop (drive or shift to N, and vibration goes away), and a driver's door speaker that doesn't work (I assume wire bundle in hinge area rubbed).
It sometimes needs a second or third turn of the ignition to go though--I'm thinking distributor cap and wires need replacing--it has a fairly new battery. At 64K miles, seems cap and wires is normal--sound right? What about rotor and guts? Any distributor info recommendations are appreciated.
I am hopeful that down the road, I can get some 31" BFG ATs on it after a 2-3" lift.
After reading some other posts, seems like I need to put some recovery points on her as well as this will be my bowhunting chariot!
Best regards everyone and thanks for reading and responding!
Dan
AKA-Squirrely
Last edited by Squirrely; 10-08-2009 at 10:23 AM. Reason: pic
#7
CF Veteran
Brake job will be easy on it, and you shouldn't have to worry about the rotors being "fused" on. They'll come right off. Change all the fluids and filters in her to include, front/rear axles, transfer case, transmission, oil, brake, power steering and coolant. Good luck and she looks real clean.
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#8
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 w/ K&N and bored TB
Well actually when I did my front brakes they were fused on, but nothing a MAP torch and a hammer couldn't fix. Also you don't have a distributor, im 100% sure unless someone sneakily modified your vehicle, 2000-01's have coil on plug, but I'd still change the plugs and maybe look into a few other maintenance projects. Besides the super shiny wheels, looks great, good luck with the project.
Last edited by Iant333; 10-07-2009 at 09:47 PM.
#9
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Idle Vibration....
Thanks all. Yeah....the super shiny wheels (LOL)--they're just plastic chrome caps....I'm sure they won't last! hahaha
I stand corrected--thanks....yes--no distributor; coil pack. I hadn't checked, and the Haynes manual listed distributor in the maint section--weird.
Any ideas why I'd have a vibration idling at a stop, but not while driving, or shifting out of drive?
Thanks!
I stand corrected--thanks....yes--no distributor; coil pack. I hadn't checked, and the Haynes manual listed distributor in the maint section--weird.
Any ideas why I'd have a vibration idling at a stop, but not while driving, or shifting out of drive?
Thanks!
#10
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Could be a broken ( or just about to go) motor mount. They are made from a poor rubber design from the factory, and the heat from the exhaust manifold usually rots the rubber out of them quickly. Replace it with a nice set of mounts from Prothane, Rustys, or *if you want a really aggressive solid poly mount) look at the "Bomb-proof" mounts from M.O.R.E. (Mountain Off-Road Ent.)
That should take care of the vibration at idle.
That should take care of the vibration at idle.
#11
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Year: 2000
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Someone else had mentioned to me that it could be a loose or going shield on the catalytic converter? Anyone else have this prob? (Not really a prob--just annoying).
#12
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Year: 2000
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Brake job will be easy on it, and you shouldn't have to worry about the rotors being "fused" on. They'll come right off. Change all the fluids and filters in her to include, front/rear axles, transfer case, transmission, oil, brake, power steering and coolant. Good luck and she looks real clean.
#13
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
If you are talking a slight "bounce" at stand still i would really check what Secret Weapon said. Mine does it which has caused the header to crack .....hmmm anybody suprised????? anyway. Look at the drivers side. When i looked from the front of the vehicle the mount looked alright, but when I looked at it when changing the tcase fluid you could see it was pretty cracked and messed up.
#15
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0L I6
Runs like a top, and very few things to complain about!