Hi all,

Looks like a great forum--I am eager to learn from all of you.

I have wanted Jeep Cherokee for a long time and finally found one I couldn't pass on. It's a 2000 Cherokee Sport (XJ?), 4x4, 4.0L-I6. It has been in someone's garage for most of it's life and has only 64K miles on it! It even has a sunroof I wasn't looking for! Everything is stock, although I just replaced the steering stab with a Monroe after quickly learning on the dirt road I live on that it was required badly! LOL Incidentally, that really sucked getting that tapered bolt out to replace the stabilizer! One hour of BP Blaster, and a Pitman Arm puller worked though. Now for the fused-on rotors! LOL

I had a full, private inspection done on this vehicle, and they said I got a great deal--nothing wrong, no codes, no rust, fluids all good, no leaks. The only known probs I have with this Jeep are slightly pulsing rotors, a slight vibration when idling at a stop (drive or shift to N, and vibration goes away), and a driver's door speaker that doesn't work (I assume wire bundle in hinge area rubbed).

It sometimes needs a second or third turn of the ignition to go though--I'm thinking distributor cap and wires need replacing--it has a fairly new battery. At 64K miles, seems cap and wires is normal--sound right? What about rotor and guts? Any distributor info recommendations are appreciated.

I am hopeful that down the road, I can get some 31" BFG ATs on it after a 2-3" lift.

After reading some other posts, seems like I need to put some recovery points on her as well as this will be my bowhunting chariot!

Best regards everyone and thanks for reading and responding!

Dan
AKA-Squirrely

 

i dont think the 2000 has a distributor cap and wires.

 

Haynes shows that in the maintenance log--easy enough to verify though!! LOL

 

i have a 2000 as well and it has a coil on plug ignition. i think thats what its called

 

I have a 2000. Distributorless. Head is prone to cracking, esp. if it overheats. And we have the sucky LP D30. Other than that, its great...

 

yeha i have an 00 and you dont have wires you have a coil pack thats about 200 bucks to replace around my area

 

Brake job will be easy on it, and you shouldn't have to worry about the rotors being "fused" on. They'll come right off. Change all the fluids and filters in her to include, front/rear axles, transfer case, transmission, oil, brake, power steering and coolant. Good luck and she looks real clean.

 

Well actually when I did my front brakes they were fused on, but nothing a MAP torch and a hammer couldn't fix. Also you don't have a distributor, im 100% sure unless someone sneakily modified your vehicle, 2000-01's have coil on plug, but I'd still change the plugs and maybe look into a few other maintenance projects. Besides the super shiny wheels, looks great, good luck with the project.

 

Thanks all. Yeah....the super shiny wheels (LOL)--they're just plastic chrome caps....I'm sure they won't last! hahaha

I stand corrected--thanks....yes--no distributor; coil pack. I hadn't checked, and the Haynes manual listed distributor in the maint section--weird.

Any ideas why I'd have a vibration idling at a stop, but not while driving, or shifting out of drive?

Thanks!

 

Could be a broken ( or just about to go) motor mount. They are made from a poor rubber design from the factory, and the heat from the exhaust manifold usually rots the rubber out of them quickly. Replace it with a nice set of mounts from Prothane, Rustys, or *if you want a really aggressive solid poly mount) look at the "Bomb-proof" mounts from M.O.R.E. (Mountain Off-Road Ent.)

That should take care of the vibration at idle.

 

Someone else had mentioned to me that it could be a loose or going shield on the catalytic converter? Anyone else have this prob? (Not really a prob--just annoying).

 

Robert, the rotors are really fused on! Had a go with 3 lb mallet and that only resulted in a lost evening! Gonna need a torch or some serious PB soaking! Original rotors--10 years old.....less than perfect! I'm thinking of using some anti-seize on the new rotors in a few key spots!

 

If you are talking a slight "bounce" at stand still i would really check what Secret Weapon said. Mine does it which has caused the header to crack .....hmmm anybody suprised????? anyway. Look at the drivers side. When i looked from the front of the vehicle the mount looked alright, but when I looked at it when changing the tcase fluid you could see it was pretty cracked and messed up.

 

Very nice Jeep. One of the best I have seen so far. Sounds like you got a great deal on it.

 

Thanks...I looked at a LOT of Cherokee Sports over a 4-5 month period....most were OK, but high miles. Some were beat on pretty bad. I couldn't believe this one when I saw it--jumped right on it!

Runs like a top, and very few things to complain about!