You can check the relay quickly by swapping it with another (like the radiator fan relay) just to see if it cranks. Just because it clicks doesn't mean it's making electrical contact. The relay is only energized when the key is turned to START. If it does, the relay is bad. If not, more troubleshooting lies ahead.

But check the grounds and terminals first.

 

Hey....thanks for the suggestions......i did replace the ground cable and the negative terminal. Problem seems to be gone. If i wiggle the the ground cable (old one) it had a bad section in it and lost continuity. So it was intermittent. Thanks again for the help.

skriv.

 

Thank you for posting this. Looking forward to some gains after my project. Valve cover gasket job turned into a head gasket job, turned into a top end rebuild. Ended up taking care of a few other things at the same time.

The Jeep is a 95 Grand Cherokee Orvis (157,000 KM)
Project included:

New valves (exhaust and inlet)
4 port fuel injection swap
New exhaust manifold (flexible manifold)
New O2 sensor
New Crank Case Vent (was broken causing vacuum leak)
New PCV (was completely plugged)
New Cold Air Intake

While I was in there, I also did a couple things:

Cleaned up the carbon on the pistons.
Flushed the coolant system.
Ground out the casting abnormalities on the intake and exhaust ports.
Port matched the intake manifold to block.
Hot dipped the block.
Sandblasted and painted the valve cover.
Painted the block. (That’s at least 5HP boost, right?)
New serpentine belt for good measure.

I think that’s about it. I’m hoping for a modest 10-15 HP gain and hopefully some steady push gosh through the mountain roads now that cylinders are swapping gasses and I’m not spewing exhaust into the coolant.

Just fired it up last night and went for a short run and it feels great, but looking forward to seeing how this works. I’ll keep ya posted