Jeep Cherokee Audio
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Also, I bought my head unit used for $50, but with the features/quality it has (pioneer premier HU), a new one would have costed around $250. My JL Audio 4-channel amp was only $70 off ebay, vs $350 new.
Dont count out used equipment, just make sure it looks like it is in good condition from a reputable seller. Almost all my gear, minus the wiring, was bought used off ebay. I did buy the component speakers new though.
Dont count out used equipment, just make sure it looks like it is in good condition from a reputable seller. Almost all my gear, minus the wiring, was bought used off ebay. I did buy the component speakers new though.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,500
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach, Ca
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
You should be able to fit some 6.5" speakers in the door as long as they're a shallow mount speaker. The factory speakers are 5.25" but a lot of aftermarket companies build larger speakers that have the same outside diameter. I just purchased some Polk Audio DB651 for the rear and they fit fine. You'll need the DB651S (slim mount) for the front doors though because the tweeter doesn't protrude out as far as the DB651. This allows the door panel to be flush against the front of the speaker when installed. I also recommend Alpine head units. Alpine only makes car audio so they know how to build quality stuff and now days they're very competitive on price with other brands. Check out Crutchfield.com. The site will tell you what fits and the prices are good too.
Last edited by rnmcguire; Dec 24, 2013 at 06:02 AM. Reason: spelling
You should be able to fit some 6.5" speakers in the door as long as they're a shallow mount speaker. The factory speakers are 5.25" but a lot of aftermarket companies build larger speakers that have the same outside diameter. I just purchased some Polk Audio DB651 for the rear and they fit fine. You'll need the DB651S (slim mount) for the front doors though because the tweeter doesn't protrude out as far as the DB651. This allows the door panel to be flush against the front of the speaker when installed. I also recommend Alpine head units. Alpine only makes car audio so they know how to build quality stuff and now days they're very competitive on price with other brands. Check out Crutchfield.com. The site will tell you what fits and the prices are good too.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
My JL amp is pretty huge compared to the newer ones on the market, and it still fit fine under the rear seat. No heat issues either.

If your stock wiring is borked, I would HIGHLY recommend just ditching it all-together and running some high quality 14 gauge speaker wire (Especially if you go with a 4-ch amp). Its cheap and you dont have to go chasing down broken wires at a later date.
I have alot of friends that are all into car audio. One way or another, they all upgrade to a 4 channel amp. Even something that can do 60w RMS to each channel will be a HUUUUGGEEE improvement over being driven by the head unit.
My JL amp is pretty huge compared to the newer ones on the market, and it still fit fine under the rear seat. No heat issues either.
If your stock wiring is borked, I would HIGHLY recommend just ditching it all-together and running some high quality 14 gauge speaker wire (Especially if you go with a 4-ch amp). Its cheap and you dont have to go chasing down broken wires at a later date.
My JL amp is pretty huge compared to the newer ones on the market, and it still fit fine under the rear seat. No heat issues either.
If your stock wiring is borked, I would HIGHLY recommend just ditching it all-together and running some high quality 14 gauge speaker wire (Especially if you go with a 4-ch amp). Its cheap and you dont have to go chasing down broken wires at a later date.
Did you do wiring in the rear? I got a pair of speakers in the roof not sure if all jeeps have that, or it was special for certain years. I don't want to mess with a head liner.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Yup, I pumped new wiring down the C pillar by the wheel well on the passengers side, and over to the amp (which is on the drivers side). I have the speaker bar that is part of the headliner, and it has a plastic inner shell for the speakers.
Not very hard, I used a coat hanger to help fish the line easier. The C pillar plastic cover is really tight fitting though, my 12 gauge wiring barely fit but 14 should work just fine).
Audio wire down the pass. side, and power down the drivers side (KnuKonceptz 0/1) to a KnuKonceptz distribution block which would let me easily add a second battery, rear mounted winch, or any other 0/1ga wiring in the rear;
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KNF-23
I actually might remove the rear speakers completely, and run my front components active at 120w per channel. I prefer to drive my front speakers correctly vs. running rear speakers which dont really make a big difference to me.
EDIT:
And if anyone is buying a head unit, either buy a used one off ebay or get a Pioneer DEH-80PRS. Only head unit I would consider right now and absolutely a steal at $280
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...DEH-80PRS.html
Not very hard, I used a coat hanger to help fish the line easier. The C pillar plastic cover is really tight fitting though, my 12 gauge wiring barely fit but 14 should work just fine).
Audio wire down the pass. side, and power down the drivers side (KnuKonceptz 0/1) to a KnuKonceptz distribution block which would let me easily add a second battery, rear mounted winch, or any other 0/1ga wiring in the rear;
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KNF-23
I actually might remove the rear speakers completely, and run my front components active at 120w per channel. I prefer to drive my front speakers correctly vs. running rear speakers which dont really make a big difference to me.
EDIT:
And if anyone is buying a head unit, either buy a used one off ebay or get a Pioneer DEH-80PRS. Only head unit I would consider right now and absolutely a steal at $280
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...DEH-80PRS.html
Last edited by investinwaffles; Dec 24, 2013 at 03:45 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington,NC
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yup, I pumped new wiring down the C pillar by the wheel well on the passengers side, and over to the amp (which is on the drivers side). I have the speaker bar that is part of the headliner, and it has a plastic inner shell for the speakers.
Not very hard, I used a coat hanger to help fish the line easier. The C pillar plastic cover is really tight fitting though, my 12 gauge wiring barely fit but 14 should work just fine).
Audio wire down the pass. side, and power down the drivers side (KnuKonceptz 0/1) to a KnuKonceptz distribution block which would let me easily add a second battery, rear mounted winch, or any other 0/1ga wiring in the rear;
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KNF-23
I actually might remove the rear speakers completely, and run my front components active at 120w per channel. I prefer to drive my front speakers correctly vs. running rear speakers which dont really make a big difference to me.
EDIT:
And if anyone is buying a head unit, either buy a used one off ebay or get a Pioneer DEH-80PRS. Only head unit I would consider right now and absolutely a steal at $280
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...DEH-80PRS.html
Not very hard, I used a coat hanger to help fish the line easier. The C pillar plastic cover is really tight fitting though, my 12 gauge wiring barely fit but 14 should work just fine).
Audio wire down the pass. side, and power down the drivers side (KnuKonceptz 0/1) to a KnuKonceptz distribution block which would let me easily add a second battery, rear mounted winch, or any other 0/1ga wiring in the rear;
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KNF-23
I actually might remove the rear speakers completely, and run my front components active at 120w per channel. I prefer to drive my front speakers correctly vs. running rear speakers which dont really make a big difference to me.
EDIT:
And if anyone is buying a head unit, either buy a used one off ebay or get a Pioneer DEH-80PRS. Only head unit I would consider right now and absolutely a steal at $280
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...DEH-80PRS.html
Last edited by Slim357; Dec 25, 2013 at 01:20 AM.
Junior Member

Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Highland
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
I run a JVC headunit, fairly inexpensive and has been great for me. And im running kicker 5.25's in the rear sound decent but need more power goin to them.
I'm looking at a kenwood for the jeep. I got a screen deck in one of the trucks, until this unit I was a Pioneer fan. They are now ****. The noise this thing generates into my music...I run shielded cables and good grounds, I can replicate with other amps or even from the deck. Pause and turn it up, there is definite hiss.
I've been dabbling in car audio for 14 years and quality of much of the gear has gone down the tubes IMO.
I'll prob run 8ga or 4ga wire to the amp, with as short as the run is, 4ga would be over kill. Not putting subs in the jeep.
I've been dabbling in car audio for 14 years and quality of much of the gear has gone down the tubes IMO.
I'll prob run 8ga or 4ga wire to the amp, with as short as the run is, 4ga would be over kill. Not putting subs in the jeep.
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