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intermittent pass window

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Old 05-31-2017, 09:31 PM
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Default intermittent pass window

goes up/down most time but not when critical like raining. no switches work, led out till it works.
once i opened the driver door and pushed on the boot and it fixed it that time. wire broke?.
im going to the barn to rip the dr door apart and find the wires???. advice wanted, wire colors?.
2000 ch sport.
Old 05-31-2017, 09:43 PM
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Check the wiring in that boot for damaged wiring. Common problem with the XJ.
Old 05-31-2017, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by fb97xj1
Check the wiring in that boot for damaged wiring. Common problem with the XJ.
all looks good n clean. all connectors nice so i think youre right.
im confirming the colors brn/wht and vio/wht. will ohm test but prob test ok since it worked when i started!!. must be broke inside.
im going to thread two new wires thru and solder them close to the connectors at each end. its hard to get at the wires in the boot, ill double up

oh im also resoldering the switch panel connectors..
Old 06-01-2017, 09:45 AM
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If its the front door jam cable harness you're checking then:
Once you get the door panel off, 'push-pull' the rubber boot out of the way and into the door (don't cut it) to expose all the wires...then try doing it the old fashioned way first.
Press the switch while wiggling/pulling each wire to find and repair or replace.
Then push-pull the rubber boot back into place.
Thats how i found my broken speaker wire.

According to some, there's supposed to be a wire splice right in the critical door jam area where flexing is maximum. But i didn't see one in my 2K when fixing the broken speaker wire, just a broken wire.
Old 06-01-2017, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by moparado
If its the front door jam cable harness you're checking then:
Once you get the door panel off, 'push-pull' the rubber boot out of the way and into the door (don't cut it) to expose all the wires...then try doing it the old fashioned way first.
Press the switch while wiggling/pulling each wire to find and repair or replace.
Then push-pull the rubber boot back into place.
Thats how i found my broken speaker wire.

According to some, there's supposed to be a wire splice right in the critical door jam area where flexing is maximum. But i didn't see one in my 2K when fixing the broken speaker wire, just a broken wire.
moving the boot is a struggle. i have trouble getting my big hand in the door.i unhooked it from the door side but its real tight on the frame? if i get it in the door id have trouble getting it back out?.
in the frame,kick area i puller a rubber seal thats tight around the wires,cant get new wires thru as of 1am!
ill get back at it this aft. i dont see any broken wires,gotta be inside insulation.

still need to identify and check the right wires . got colors from book but hard to see in that corner. later
Old 06-01-2017, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by moparado
If its the front door jam cable harness you're checking then:
Once you get the door panel off, 'push-pull' the rubber boot out of the way and into the door (don't cut it) to expose all the wires...then try doing it the old fashioned way first.
Press the switch while wiggling/pulling each wire to find and repair or replace.
Then push-pull the rubber boot back into place.
Thats how i found my broken speaker wire.

According to some, there's supposed to be a wire splice right in the critical door jam area where flexing is maximum. But i didn't see one in my 2K when fixing the broken speaker wire, just a broken wire.
got new wires in and soldered but b4 soldering i checked both old wires and they test good, cant make them bad. yet i know yesterday i pushed on the boot to make it work?? so one must be intermittent but? did not see a break, did see the splice.
so i know the new ones are solid. got to admit i didnt see me doing that boot trick, but i did!
did a quik check, gotta button up and test run.
Old 06-01-2017, 07:07 PM
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Yeah i remember that rubber boot was a PITA. But it can be moved out of the way to inspect the wires.
If you have the factory splice, and if you haven't already done so i'd redo it.
Even if it doesn't fix your window problem call it preventative maints. The worst place to splice wires.

My passenger window would not work from the driver's side switch pod. The auto function and LEDs in it were shot too.
Got around 300K miles out of the original switch pod though. LOL.

Thought about taking it apart and doing the soldering trick but didn't want to deal with it.
So i ordered a new knock off switch pod from fleabay for around $35.
Its been working for a couple years now with no problem.
Old 06-01-2017, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by moparado
Yeah i remember that rubber boot was a PITA. But it can be moved out of the way to inspect the wires.
If you have the factory splice, and if you haven't already done so i'd redo it.
Even if it doesn't fix your window problem call it preventative maints. The worst place to splice wires.

My passenger window would not work from the driver's side switch pod. The auto function and LEDs in it were shot too.
Got around 300K miles out of the original switch pod though. LOL.

Thought about taking it apart and doing the soldering trick but didn't want to deal with it.
So i ordered a new knock off switch pod from fleabay for around $35.
Its been working for a couple years now with no problem.
i just got "done" 2+ hrs to finalize the boot/wires, reassm door panel, a struggle.
once i thought it failed again but i had the conn unhooked . hope this is it for a while. thanks for riding along!
Old 06-02-2017, 09:26 AM
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Alright! Success! Happy windowing

Just thought of something why my 2k doesn't have the factory splice in the door jam.
Could be they didn't use it on a 2-door.

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