Just thinking out loud. But with #3 do you think it could be plugged?

 

Well it's a pain in the you know what but I'd suggest putting ALL your old injectors back and start over. When looking at stuff like this I would just hook up the very minimum you need to to crank it up and see what's happening. No need to re-hook all the throttle cables and brackets and maybe only 2 of the fuel rail hold down bolts, etc. Will save a lot of time and effort switching stuff around.

 

well there brand new injectors not rebuilt. But i will do that. Something else...after i turn off the engine there is a ticking sound coming from the valve cover. I did just replace the gasket. I slowly stops after a while but it sounds like something slowly going up and down

 

Did you test/clean the injectors before installing?

 

How did I miss that last post? DOH.

It definitely sounds like a vac line is either cracked or not connected. Especially the one Flintstone referenced that goes from the valve cover side of the throttle body to the MAP sensor. It may be a small crack that's difficult to see so you might be better off just replacing the vacuum line. Bulk hose is cheap.

 

how do i do that??? I just tested for spark and its getting it. so i guess ill swap to the old injectors to see if that helps..but keep in mind it run great till the injector swap. so if that does work what else can it be...??? ahhhhhh

 

Go to any auto parts store and pick up about two feet of 1/8th I.D. rubber vacuum hose, pull the old one off and plug the new one in... it will take you 100 times longer to go buy it than it will to replace it, probably a 45 second job.

If you want to keep swapping injectors back and forth that's certainly okay but I think you might be wasting your time.

 

thanks for your help..i am a newbie in all sense of the word. Let me pick your brain about one thing. What are all the vac lines that could have been removed that could be doing this.. i check the map line and it look like its 100%.. i removed the whole thing and look it over. but if u think i can get the new line tomorrow

 

http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=124 do you have acess ro noid lights?

 

i dont.. i think im taking take to shop...im checking the vac lines tomorrow for the 1000th time

 

I pulled a total of three vacuum lines to get the fuel rail out.

1. Throttle body to MAP
2. PCV (at the back of the valve cover) to an elbow near the air box
3. Fuel pressure regulator at the end of the fuel rail closest to the front of Jeep...

I've got a few pictures I took of the engine bay before, during, and after. I'm still cleaning up but when I'm finished I'll post them here. Might make it easier.

 

what is the number on the injectors that you bought? maybe you got the wrong ones.

 

Alright, here are all the vacuum lines I disconnected. It's not only important to make sure that they're reconnected but also that they weren't damaged.



All of the vac lines in this photo have been disconnected and moved out of the way, I've drawn a line with an arrow pointing to where they should be connected.

 

Hey, thanks Chad. Finally a little respect! Pete just said, "you have too much time on your hands Flintstone!" Nice F1 ^^!

Sheez Jeeps. What a pain. The reason some of us keep harping on that MAP tube is it will run like **i** if the map isn't getting good vacuum. You can try pulling the tube right from the map and feel directly with your finger. If it got plugged, (might look fine), it will also tell the ECM to dump extra fuel. It's gotta get good vacuum. I'm not the only one who bumped and broke that tube installing 703's. On the 703's Btw. When I went I didn't find ANY in Neons. I forget, Breeze, Sebring...anyway make sure the itty-bitty numbers do indeed end in 703, just to be sure.




It's never a bad idea to clean up that gang of grounds at the base of the dip stick. Yea, pretty unlikely a problem popped up there when you switched, but lots of very important stuff grounds there, and having it cleaned up is a good idea anytime. (ECU, TCU, Sensors, Injectors). Also that braided cable from the back of the valve cover to the firewall needs to be A1, or you could have trouble.

Also pull your fuel pump relay here > http://autorepair.about.com/library/images/bl347lib.htm and check/clean the blades & socket. Just takes a second. Switch it with the AC relay if you want. Can't hurt. I'm still unclear of exactly what, but it does more than just the fuel pump, I think.

 

here are the injectors that i got AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 4G1367 (rockauto)