andrem

So....my f***ing leaf spring bolt is stuck to the frame, i've cut it off probably too much, nothing is sticking out. And it's the front shackle we're talking about.

I've been at this for a month or so but i've used a 9mm drill to drill an almost center hole in the bolt and tried a screw extractor (easy out) in it....It bit in quite good but i kept turning the extractor and it wouldn't budge!

So, here's the issues. I have the jeep on jackstands with no access to electricity, only battery driven tools! I can't take it anywhere, since one part of the axle has no leafspring.

The things I can probably do from here are, drill a bigger hole, 10mm and try to jam more of the extractor there. Try and heat it up like the sun with a torch (won't that weaken the frame?)

Since I don't have any access to welding tools and I won't be bringing a generator to power one (semi private garage) I can't cut up the frame/floor and access it from above.

I'm seriously getting tired of this and need tips that are bulletproof, are there any out there?

PocketsEmpty

Better find a generator...or maybe a large enough hole saw, because you'll probably have to cut into the uniframe rail behind the welded nut to gain access to it. Removing leaf springs without electricity? I commend your ballsy approach lol

Rogue4x4

Broken bolts suck. You already have a hole drilled? Just keep stepping up the drill size one size at a time until you get close to the edges. Is the bolt still inside the threads on the backside or were you able to back it out of the threads? Leafspring still on the rig? Did you cut the bolt to get the leafs out? If you cut and the springs are out, and you just have nothing to grab onto to get the threaded portion out of the hole, keep drilling bigger, don't bother with the extractor until you get close to the edge of the threads. You may need to re-tap the threads when done, or at least run a tap through them to clean the threads up. Good luck.

andrem

This is an absolute last approach - Since the garage owners (a company that rents out spaces in the garage) has strict policies about "dangerous" and unhealthy things, running a generator with poor ventilation is a big no-no here in Sweden! But thanks, it's just 1/4 bolts that gave me trouble so I guess I was lucky.

I guess I have about 3mm to each side, the top is a bit less since I didn't get it exactly center. The bolt still has threads in the frame hole, can't say how much though! The leafspring is gone, I cut the whole bushing etc off it just to remove it from the axle.

What would happen if i drill away all of the bolt on one side, since it's not exactly center I have more "meat" to grab on the sides and below than up top (if you imagine the bolt area as a +)

Rogue4x4

I'd say get it as close to the threads as you can, use some penetrating oil and then attempt to extract. If you can't get a generator, have you thought of using an inverter?

EDIT: you may have to drill into the threads (ever so slightly, be careful if you have to do it) just enough to get some penetrating oil in there, but you will need to re-tap if you do this. I have been able to get it close like that at times and then pick away at the left over material to get it free.

PocketsEmpty

I think Ron's suggesting is your next best approach...just start drilling that sucker out until you start seeing some threads. You might get lucky and the remaining pieces will fall out. Still might need to run a tap through, though.

andrem

Yea, will try and get a bigger drillbit then.

Inverter? Not really familiar with the electrical gear

Rogue4x4

An inverter runs off of 12v dc and converts to 110v ac (or whatever it is you swedes use, LOL) to run plug-in tools. You would need one rated large enough to run whatever tool you are powering.

EDIT: get several drill bits, step up one size at a time. Consider the hole you have as a pilot hole and step up drills one size at a time til you get close.

andrem

Ah yeah, I googled it and found a couple here....but now I just need a spare battery to run everything then etc....I'd much just prefer using hand tools to get it done but good to know if the s***t hits the fan - which it probably will....

Rogue4x4

If your jeep starts and runs, just hook up the inverter and idle. Let your alt do the work. Inverters will kill batteries quick.

bigvig

Yup, in the front shackle box the nut is welded on the inside. Best approach is to open up the box from BELOW. That way any water, etc., will run out and it can dry better preventing rust. Youre going to have to put a new nut on, and that's the only way to do it (well, you could remove the interior and cut from there, but its a LOT more work.

PocketsEmpty

^FYI, your photos are all dead in your writeup in your sig. It looks like a good writeup but seeing those Photobucket placeholders ruins it. Can you fix?

bigvig

I cant, the post is locked.

andrem

Yeah, didn't think of that! Then i'll just use my other car then.

Wait, what? It's welded to the frame as standard?! Strange since the otherside had no issues being removed. But thanks for the picture and a nice little hole you got there.

What tool did you use? A torch? An angle grinder would've had trouble getting that small and clean, right?

bigvig

The nut is WELDED to the inside of that box, no two ways around it.


On your other side it might have come right out, sure, because it wasn't seized. HOWEVER, your old nut is still in there and youll need to get it out. Or you can run the risk of re-using it (FSM says to replace all nuts & bolts when doing this). Personally, Id rather not re-use something like that. But lets just say you do. When you go to torque it to specs and it snaps free, then what? Then youre REALLY screwed because you've got everything back together and NOW the nut snapped free so good luck getting that all apart.


I used an air compressor with cutoff wheel to open it up. You will NEED to do this to do it right. Promise.