If that was directed towards me, My battery was disco'd for 3 days which should have reset the ECU, Right?

 

Im not discrediting what you say, however, I was told that the oil you put on the filters, the "recharger" is supposed to help eliminate the the excess dirt by trapping it before it blows through. I also thought I read somewhere that the filters actually perform better after they get a little dirty? Who knows, i've never seen any difference either way with any filter i've used.

 

Warpig: No worries - I'm not sensitive. I, too, want to know the answer. I took a K&N off my F350 after reading the MCN discussion but I didn't throw it in the junk - it is still up on the shelf. But I doubt I'll ever use it again. I've since read a couple other discussions of their stuff and don't like what I see.

The discussion MCN had covered the oil recharger thing. Per MCN, there is only two ways to provide more air volume: Make the holes bigger or increase the surface area. Ordinary pleated paper filters have the greatest surface area with the smallest holes. They are cheap and easy to replace and they work.

K&N's have smaller surface area and larger holes. Their claim to fame is more horsepower...but nobody will buy more horesepower if it means their DD won't last as long. A true hotrod/race guy will...but they rebuild their motors routinely. As long as the big chunks get filtered out, they're happy.

K&Ns are an oiled filter and even reuseable...but they don't function like the oil bath filters you find on tractors. Tractors have a pool of oil that the air must pass over and the airborne dirt sticks to the oil. Even tractors, though, have a paper element after the oil bath to get the remainder of the dirt.

K&N filter more dirt as they get dirty because the holes get smaller. That just tells me that before they get dirty too much dirt makes it into the motor.

Again - I'm not hammering K&N. Just repeating what I've read from sources that test scientifically. I'm learning as I go, like everyone else.

 

has anyone actually tried the K&N filter kit for better MPG.
this one http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=57-1518?????

 

Alignment?

 

Also check the vacuum canister located just behind the passenger side front bumper. mine was idling high and i couldnt figure it our untill i found my canister had a hole in it.

 

If you said the mileage I missed it.
If its a high mileage engine. the injector swap will help all the way around.
Better atomization of the fuel will increase power and a more effeicent burn.

Plugged catalytic convertor will cause a problem with fuel mileage and power too. Try running a race breathing through a straw and you get the same effect.

WE have 235/75/15's on the 95 and it has not suffered a hit in mpg.

 

That was to the OP.

 

I'm currently getting 16 mpg average and 18 on my highway trips and thats on paper air filter, old fuel filter, stock injectors, and a dying fuel pump. I'm hoping when i replace all those i can get up to 18 city 20 highway.

 

How would alloy wheels improve mileage?

 

Alloy wheels are a lot lighter than steel wheels which then requires less force for them to roll

 

That is probably my next investment is a new hi flow cat

 

i got this problem to... maybe my gas gauge is busted.... or the 02s how can i test them?

 

I might be wrong but as far as I know the O2 sensors either work or they don't, but if they weren't working the CEL would most likely be on until you replaced it

 

How do you drive it? Driving habits have a lot to do with MPG. Racing it around, hard off and one throttle and hard on the brakes will decrease your MPG. You probably won't like the answer as to how to get better MPG.


Drive like an old lady...

It's not much fun, but with a vehicle in proper operating order you should get 18-20 mpg. I can get 20mpg consistently out of my 93 stock XJ with 235/75/15 tires, driving on roads with stop signs/lights every miles, some in city, some in the country but stop signs/lights every mile the whole way. Mine is a 4.0 ltr, 5 speed, 4wd. I creep around everywhere.. I typically drive 40 and rarely break 45mph. I typically shift at 1800 RPM, cruise at 1500 RPM. Easy on and off the gas, slow shifts...coast when possible and coast up to stop signs. My XJ could even use a new set of plugs and wires..... but it is working fine as it is.

I do not worry about those people in a hurry... they can go around. I give them room/opportunity to pass. I drive my XJ 40 miles a day round trip.. if I can get a tank to last me 9 days of commuting then I am in no hurry. (yes 9 days, weren't you taught to not let the needle get that close to E?)

Like I said... not fun... not cool, but it works.