CF Veteran
Quote:
renix is what chrysler used for the injection system on 87-90 model year 4.0. They are alot easier to work with because all you need for electrical problem is a brain and a multi meter. there is no codes for it. They didnt have the power of the H.O. but they were alot nicer to work on in my opinion. I have had 2 renix era cherokee's and 1 H.O. era cherokee.Originally Posted by fixitman
what the hell is a renix? always see that but never knew what it meant
CF Veteran
RENIX wasn't ChryCo - it was AMC. The system was spec'd by AMC, designed by Renault, and built by Bendix (actually, Bendix/King avionics.) RENault + bendIX = RENIX.
Given a choice, I'd take either a RENIX (1987-1990 w/AMC engine, prefereably the 242ci I6) or an OBD-II (1996-2001, all engines,) with preference to RENIX. However, that's just me - I cut my teeth as a mechanic thirty years ago, working on vehicles that were already over ten years old, so I'm used to doing my own thinking. Just about all troubleshooting on RENIX can be done using a decent DMM. RENIX does not "store" or "throw" codes.
The reason for skipping the OBD-I (1991-1995) rigs is simple - OBD-I wasn't really a "standardised" system, and I've known it to be just plain wrong several times. OBD-II still screws up on occasion, but at least it's a standard and you don't have to find Chrysler-specific goodies to work with it. Also, there are more engine mods available for OBD-II than for OBD-I or RENIX, so if you want to modify your engine significantly that may be a way to go (particularly if you're subject to the California Air Police and their persistent bloody-mindedness.)
Rigs to avoid? 1984-1988 with the Renault 2.1L/126ci turbo Diesel - parts are scarce. 1984-1986 with the 2.8L V6 - unless you plan on swapping the engine. It's a dog. However, it can be swapped out fairly easily for a 3.1L/3.4L from an S-series without too much trouble - grab the whole drivetrain and electronics package, and you'll get a decent engine, fuel injection, and a transmission with overdrive (if you get the whole drivetrain, look for a 1988-up transmission, either THM700R4 or 4L60. Avoid the later 4L60E, as it's electronically controlled and would require a great deal more work. I don't recall exactly when the 4L60E was phased in, but I think it was mid- to late-1990s. Also, avoid the 1987 and earlier THM700R4 - they have a fatal flaw in the valve body, and the usual fix for the thing is outright replacement of the entire box.)
Advance Adapters also makes a mount cradle (bolt-in or weld-in) to mount a Small Block Chevvy (or derived engine) into an XJ/MJ chassis of pretty much any year - might make for an interesting project. That would allow pretty much any SBC from 283ci ro 400ci to be mounted in there, as well as either the 3.8L or 4.3L V6 (both derived from the SBC, although I'd probably get the 4.3L. Score that from some S-series, some Astro/Safari, and K-5/K-10/light K-20 pickup for a full drivetrain swap. Again, you should be able to find it coupled to a 4L60/THM700R4 with minimal effort. The SBC can be found in K-5 thru K-30, and finding it coupled to a THM350, THM400/3L80, THM700R4/4L60, or 4L80 should not be difficult.)
The COP/DIS used in 2000-2001XJ isn't as much of a problem as that the head has a fair likelihood of cracking up top - fix this by replacing with a 2002-up head (#0331) from a TJ or a WJ/WK. Or, take a step back in time (and a slight step forward in performance,) and adapt a #7120 (1991-1995) or #0630 (1996-1999) head to work with the exhaust and ignition rail. Using multiple coils actually allows for a more energetic spark, since using a coil per cylinder pair allows more saturation time than using a single coil for all cylinders.
Once you've absorbed all of this, feel free to ask if you have any further questions!
Given a choice, I'd take either a RENIX (1987-1990 w/AMC engine, prefereably the 242ci I6) or an OBD-II (1996-2001, all engines,) with preference to RENIX. However, that's just me - I cut my teeth as a mechanic thirty years ago, working on vehicles that were already over ten years old, so I'm used to doing my own thinking. Just about all troubleshooting on RENIX can be done using a decent DMM. RENIX does not "store" or "throw" codes.
The reason for skipping the OBD-I (1991-1995) rigs is simple - OBD-I wasn't really a "standardised" system, and I've known it to be just plain wrong several times. OBD-II still screws up on occasion, but at least it's a standard and you don't have to find Chrysler-specific goodies to work with it. Also, there are more engine mods available for OBD-II than for OBD-I or RENIX, so if you want to modify your engine significantly that may be a way to go (particularly if you're subject to the California Air Police and their persistent bloody-mindedness.)
Rigs to avoid? 1984-1988 with the Renault 2.1L/126ci turbo Diesel - parts are scarce. 1984-1986 with the 2.8L V6 - unless you plan on swapping the engine. It's a dog. However, it can be swapped out fairly easily for a 3.1L/3.4L from an S-series without too much trouble - grab the whole drivetrain and electronics package, and you'll get a decent engine, fuel injection, and a transmission with overdrive (if you get the whole drivetrain, look for a 1988-up transmission, either THM700R4 or 4L60. Avoid the later 4L60E, as it's electronically controlled and would require a great deal more work. I don't recall exactly when the 4L60E was phased in, but I think it was mid- to late-1990s. Also, avoid the 1987 and earlier THM700R4 - they have a fatal flaw in the valve body, and the usual fix for the thing is outright replacement of the entire box.)
Advance Adapters also makes a mount cradle (bolt-in or weld-in) to mount a Small Block Chevvy (or derived engine) into an XJ/MJ chassis of pretty much any year - might make for an interesting project. That would allow pretty much any SBC from 283ci ro 400ci to be mounted in there, as well as either the 3.8L or 4.3L V6 (both derived from the SBC, although I'd probably get the 4.3L. Score that from some S-series, some Astro/Safari, and K-5/K-10/light K-20 pickup for a full drivetrain swap. Again, you should be able to find it coupled to a 4L60/THM700R4 with minimal effort. The SBC can be found in K-5 thru K-30, and finding it coupled to a THM350, THM400/3L80, THM700R4/4L60, or 4L80 should not be difficult.)
The COP/DIS used in 2000-2001XJ isn't as much of a problem as that the head has a fair likelihood of cracking up top - fix this by replacing with a 2002-up head (#0331) from a TJ or a WJ/WK. Or, take a step back in time (and a slight step forward in performance,) and adapt a #7120 (1991-1995) or #0630 (1996-1999) head to work with the exhaust and ignition rail. Using multiple coils actually allows for a more energetic spark, since using a coil per cylinder pair allows more saturation time than using a single coil for all cylinders.
Once you've absorbed all of this, feel free to ask if you have any further questions!
CF Veteran
Quote:
Look for a truck that has been undercoated if you live in the rust belt.
"truck"? I thought he was looking for an XJ! Originally Posted by cherokee4meplz
you're going to want to find a Red renix era XJ in as good of condition as you can find. Look for a truck that has been undercoated if you live in the rust belt.
CF Veteran
Quote:
sure there is! As long as someone has swapped out the horrible "0331" heads!Originally Posted by LazersGoPEWPEW
What??? No love for the 01 XJ?
Senior Member
Id say anything much newer with NO rot or oil leaks. Would want a factory roof rack too. My list of wants is endless so i could sit and type all day lol
Member
That is a good article for newbies...like me.
Newbie
Cheap, cheap, and cheap that would be my advice! Once you get one it's a blank canvas and you can build it anyway you want from mild to insane
CF Veteran
Guys have showed up from the past before. BottaBing had been here since 1/11.....
CF Veteran
I researched this same thing for almost a year before I decided on the year I wanted and options on it. Then searched for another 8 months before I found one close to what I wanted as far as options went.
Here is what I came up with for a year a 1999 for quite a few reasons it had all the best of the previous years combined in it and a few goodies that came only in that one year (Avoid the 2000-01's). It also would interchange parts with most all later models mid 90's-2001 except for the engine. Most all body parts/interior parts interchange with one another. Stock for that year was the HPD30 and the Chy 8.25 29 spline rear differential (very close to a D44 in strength) but the D35 with ABS came in them also avoid those.
The options I was looking for were the AW4 auto trans, they will hold up well for up to 300,000 mi. or better with only fluid changes. Where the AX15 was more of a replacement issue with clutches that had to be serviced on a regular basis.
A NP231 transfer case was another thing I wanted.
Towing package Class III
Complete gauge package
Leather interior didn't get it, was cloth instead you can't have everything
Power seats, mirrors, windows
That was why it took me so long to find one plus the fact I wanted one that was "Rust Free" with around 200,000 mi. or less (settled for one with 221,000 mi. but a very good drivetrain in it).
I was NOT going to pay a rip off price either for one so those I just laughed and walked away, if I went to look at all.
Here is what I came up with for a year a 1999 for quite a few reasons it had all the best of the previous years combined in it and a few goodies that came only in that one year (Avoid the 2000-01's). It also would interchange parts with most all later models mid 90's-2001 except for the engine. Most all body parts/interior parts interchange with one another. Stock for that year was the HPD30 and the Chy 8.25 29 spline rear differential (very close to a D44 in strength) but the D35 with ABS came in them also avoid those.
The options I was looking for were the AW4 auto trans, they will hold up well for up to 300,000 mi. or better with only fluid changes. Where the AX15 was more of a replacement issue with clutches that had to be serviced on a regular basis.
A NP231 transfer case was another thing I wanted.
Towing package Class III
Complete gauge package
Leather interior didn't get it, was cloth instead you can't have everything
Power seats, mirrors, windows
That was why it took me so long to find one plus the fact I wanted one that was "Rust Free" with around 200,000 mi. or less (settled for one with 221,000 mi. but a very good drivetrain in it).
I was NOT going to pay a rip off price either for one so those I just laughed and walked away, if I went to look at all.
I'd get a 97+ 2dr 5spd 4wd. I'm partial to 2drs and 5spds, but I could only feasibly make one happen at the time of purchase. you can swap trans, but losing doors is much more difficult. don't let the "bad" heads or low pinion difs scare you. all of that stuff is fairly easy to find/replace and relatively cheap. xjs are like Legos, very few things are not interchangeable.