If I take out the ball, do I have a recovery point?
#61
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Which is probably gonna be right on the edge of acceptable for a '******' type of recovery.
It's the same thought process as why an 8k winch is the ABSOLUTE minimum needed for an XJ....
You are looking at a 4k+ vehicle, possibly mired in mud or dirt or whatever causing an even higher efffective pull strength needed to free it an move it.
A straight line pull on level ground of a vehicle needs a MUCH smaller effective strength pull than one that is mired, hung up or off angle.
Do yourself a favor and PM Rev. He is the head tech inspector for Naxja at WinterFest. He will help you get what you need to make it. I know that if you were at a run for my local jeep club, I would fail you with a regular hitch pin in there.
It's the same thought process as why an 8k winch is the ABSOLUTE minimum needed for an XJ....
You are looking at a 4k+ vehicle, possibly mired in mud or dirt or whatever causing an even higher efffective pull strength needed to free it an move it.
A straight line pull on level ground of a vehicle needs a MUCH smaller effective strength pull than one that is mired, hung up or off angle.
Do yourself a favor and PM Rev. He is the head tech inspector for Naxja at WinterFest. He will help you get what you need to make it. I know that if you were at a run for my local jeep club, I would fail you with a regular hitch pin in there.
#62
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Sure, come by shovel the 3 foot bank of snow out from under my Jeep. The snow is high enough that it is even with the roof of my Comanche.
Its' a Tomken rear bumper with the integrated class 3 hitch.
I added additional uni-frame tie ins using the nutstrip design for the factory rear class 3 hitch.
#63
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
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Engine: 4.0L Renix
Here is my homemade one with a reciever hitch and a welded strip that serves as a nutstrip and the 8 bolts that bolt to the body. Never tried to use as a recovery point but think it would serve that purpose too.
#64
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Sure, come by shovel the 3 foot bank of snow out from under my Jeep. The snow is high enough that it is even with the roof of my Comanche.
Its' a Tomken rear bumper with the integrated class 3 hitch.
I added additional uni-frame tie ins using the nutstrip design for the factory rear class 3 hitch.
Its' a Tomken rear bumper with the integrated class 3 hitch.
I added additional uni-frame tie ins using the nutstrip design for the factory rear class 3 hitch.
it just got cold enough for me to change from shorts to pants this week
burrrrr its only 65 deg out
#65
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the hitch does not tie back far enough on the frame to use as a recovery point. it will either shear at the SINGLE BOLT holding the "tongue" on the hitch frame, or you will rip the entire assembly off of the frame.
I'd say you need a class 3 with mounts that go back at least another 2' with at least two more bolts each side. then you need at least a 2" reciever. you CAN use a 2" reciever without the ball and with a clevis to recover from, that is no problem.
I'd say you need a class 3 with mounts that go back at least another 2' with at least two more bolts each side. then you need at least a 2" reciever. you CAN use a 2" reciever without the ball and with a clevis to recover from, that is no problem.
#66
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Interesting thread and something I have been wondering myself.
My XJ came with a 2" receiver hitch which is held on to the frame with 3 bolts either side (worryingly with a mix of 10.9, 8.8 and what looks like B 3 11 markings on them...). A few questions then:
1. How far back should the hitch tie into the frame? Mine has the 3 bolts either side, but it still only extends about 1 foot from the bar with the receiver to the frontmost bolt.
2. I can't see a nutstrip, but it looks from the diagram like it sits between the tank skid and the rail. Is it easy to see when everything is fully assembled if it's there?
3. What is the specification of "class 3". My hitch was made by an engineering company that it turns out is about 10 miles from my house, so I can ask them if they have specs for it, but pre-emting they might not know what class 3 is, what are the numbers relating to it?
4. The ball is on a section held in to the receiver by a pin, which is unmarked. Any guidance on the size and grade of pin I should be using if I want to fit a section with a D-Ring?
Thanks in advance,
Fen
My XJ came with a 2" receiver hitch which is held on to the frame with 3 bolts either side (worryingly with a mix of 10.9, 8.8 and what looks like B 3 11 markings on them...). A few questions then:
1. How far back should the hitch tie into the frame? Mine has the 3 bolts either side, but it still only extends about 1 foot from the bar with the receiver to the frontmost bolt.
2. I can't see a nutstrip, but it looks from the diagram like it sits between the tank skid and the rail. Is it easy to see when everything is fully assembled if it's there?
3. What is the specification of "class 3". My hitch was made by an engineering company that it turns out is about 10 miles from my house, so I can ask them if they have specs for it, but pre-emting they might not know what class 3 is, what are the numbers relating to it?
4. The ball is on a section held in to the receiver by a pin, which is unmarked. Any guidance on the size and grade of pin I should be using if I want to fit a section with a D-Ring?
Thanks in advance,
Fen
#67
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So my hitch ties in about a foot back in the frame has what 5 3/4 bolts on each side with two front bolts that tie in to the cross member and I won't be able to be recovered with out sheering something off.
Guess I will have to learn from EXP. The recovery bumpers I see people using all the time have the same tie-ins so I see no problem in a Class 3 Hitch and I doubt Rev Den would either but I will find out this Mar.
Guess I will have to learn from EXP. The recovery bumpers I see people using all the time have the same tie-ins so I see no problem in a Class 3 Hitch and I doubt Rev Den would either but I will find out this Mar.
Last edited by XJ Stryker; 12-24-2008 at 09:22 PM.
#68
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I really think you guys are over-thinking this. If you get stuck throw a strap on it and see what happens. If it breaks upgrade it. if not carry on.
#69
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Who has seen a class 3 Hitch fail during recovery. What happened?
#71
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heres a link cause all of us guys are on a buget
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f11/class-3-hitch-7376/
i cant help you on the "is yours safe" part cauz i have a hook bolted to my bumper mounts that the head of the bolt broke off when i was putting it on
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f11/class-3-hitch-7376/
i cant help you on the "is yours safe" part cauz i have a hook bolted to my bumper mounts that the head of the bolt broke off when i was putting it on
#72
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That is a somewhat ignorant post. So if your in the vehicle behind him pulling him out and it breaks, would you like the receiver to come flying at you at a high speed? I highly doubt it.
#73
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I got the same setup on my rig when I bought it. It's rated at 2000 lb. trailer weight, 200 lb. tongue weight, that isn't enough strength for recoveries. I'd say maybe on an icy road, but that's it!!
#74
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As for now, I'll avoid any ****** type recoveries. I'll pull with a spotter. If anything seems off, I'll stop.
#75
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So my hitch ties in about a foot back in the frame has what 5 3/4 bolts on each side with two front bolts that tie in to the cross member and I won't be able to be recovered with out sheering something off.
Guess I will have to learn from EXP. The recovery bumpers I see people using all the time have the same tie-ins so I see no problem in a Class 3 Hitch and I doubt Rev Den would either but I will find out this Mar.
Guess I will have to learn from EXP. The recovery bumpers I see people using all the time have the same tie-ins so I see no problem in a Class 3 Hitch and I doubt Rev Den would either but I will find out this Mar.
Mike got it right.. the hitch itself is fine. The pin and clevis are the concerning points.
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