I've got a problem with my Idle Control (stepper motor) Valve on my 88 Jeep 4.0L Renix.

The Idle went "wacky" so I removed the idle control valve and the plug was un-screwed from it's threaded metal mounting shaft inside the motor.

From what I can tell, the plug is threaded onto the shaft and the threads "let go".

My question is....Can I simply put a small dab of JB Weld on the end of the shaft and screw the plug back on?
Is the plug depth adjustable...hence the threaded section?
Does the shaft (and plug) rotate when the motor is in operation?
I think that the threads are simply stripped in the plug.

Is it repairable?

thanks for any response

 

Neat failure. I've never heard of anyone having that issue or attempting such a repair. What I do know is that the stepper motor itself is actually fragile and a fix like that would be pretty risky. Any junkyards near by? Better use of your time would be to pinch one from another Renix probably

 

A new one can be about $20-$30


(not sure if that is the one you need...check part numbers...)

 

Nope, my 88 Comanche with 4.0L Renix takes a IAC-9

$35.

I just realized that the "OEM" valve you listed is not a true O.E.M. (Original Equipment Manufacturer) part in the real sense.
There apparently is a Parts company called "OEM" and the parts they sell are made in China.
Just a word to the wise, just because it says "OEM" doesn't mean that the parts are the real thing from the Car manufacturer.
The true OEM number (Jeep, AMC, Chrysler) for the idle valve used on my comanche is 83503643.

Thanks for the reply

 

 

That's definitely a better price.
That part ships directly from China too.
There's one on E-bay right now for $12.88 with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Idle-Air...2a7b95&vxp=mtr

I wonder if these are the same parts that are packaged and sold with various manufacturer names and part numbers.

Have you had any experience with these Chinese Made parts?
How's the quality?
I know it's hard to buy any thing that's not made in China now.

thanks for the reply.

 

Personally, I loathe the idea of buying anything made anywhere else other than the USA...and not for any sense of nationalism or desire for quality. I prefer to buy local where my neighbors live so that my financial energy stays close to me and my neighbors...and not taken outside of our neighborhood. The financial energy we spend locally bolsters our own communities.

As for quality, China-made stuff is usually fine, and most stuff is made there now anyway so we have little choice.

Our country got imploded by bean-counters and slave-drivers...

(sorry to get political...)

The mass-media tries to tell us that China is our enemy and is building up mass quantities of weaponry to destroy us. If they are actually doing this, they are doing it with our money that we send to them ever-so-willingly to buy that flashy cheap crap they make. The 'system' is totally fuxored...

 

X2!

 

Rockauto.com has them. Airtex/Wells and Standard Motor Products. I think the Airtex/Wells brand is made in USA.

 

I ordered a $13 one from E-b**.
What the heck, it's not my daily driver because I don't go anywhere daily , so I'll give it a shot.

I made a temporary, manual, idle control until the new valve arrives and it works pretty well.
It's kinda like adjusting the idle on a carburetor.

I used a 4" long piece of 1/2" diameter (wood) dowel and a 1/2" male NPT to 1/2" ID, plastic, weather tite (electrical) cable connector.
On the bench grinder, I rounded the end of the dowel so that it looked like the end of the pintle (plug) that extends out of the factory valve.

I then screwed the 1/2" male into the throttle body by hand and then slid the wood dowel into the cable connector. The cable connector has a rubber bushing and a squeeze nut to tighten it onto the dowel, so at finger tight on the cable connector outer nut, I can slide the dowel in and out to adjust the idle.

I know that the hole in the throttle body is not threaded but the plastic 1/2" npt connector will thread easily into the hole without damaging the aluminum.

I will post a picture of it when I take it back out.

As my uncle used to tell me...
"When the Ox is in the ditch, the first thing to do is get him out".

 

That's DIY! Nice job!

 

Those threads are what actually drives the plunger in & out so if it came off I'm guessing something broke inside. When mine died it was high idling, I got a couple warnings when it would stick for a moment then one day it stayed high. I pulled it out, adjusted it manually and reistalled it with the connector off till I got a new one. The one on the jeep wasn't very old, the replacement only lasted a few weeks, the one on now has little time on it. Fortunately it has a lifetime warranty from Oreilly auto parts and it's easy to change. The new one sticks high very briefly once in a while.

 

I finally got my new Idle Valve.
It shipped directly from china, so it took about 3 weeks.
I installed it and it works.......not bad for $13.

I'm also including a few pictures of the homemade idle control valve that I made out of a piece of wood and a plastic 1/2" diameter liquid tight cable connector.

I had originally remembered using the 1/2"NPT threads on the plastic connector to screw it into the hole in the throttle.
After I took it back out, I remembered that I used a bench grinder to remove the threads and make a close fit so that I could slide the connector into the throttle valve and glue it in place with some 5 minute epoxy.

I started with a piece of 5/8" diameter wood dowel, and again using the bench grinder, I ground the OD down to approx. 1/2" diameter.
I used what I had on hand, and you can just use a piece of 1/2" dowel.
The pictures tell it all.

I ran this for more than a year, and it works pretty good after you get the idle set correctly.
To set the idle all you do is loosen the compression nut on the connector and slide the wood dowel in or out a little, then re-tighten (finger tight) the compression nut.
The idle is a tad low when the engine is hot and a tad high when it warms up, but all in all it's pretty stable.
It's definitely a quick fix if your idle valve malfunctions, and will work until you can get another.

I also included a picture of the new idle valve and a picture of my engine showing my Volvo 746 fuel injectors.

 

Something to keep in mind since these replacement valves seem to suck: If yours starts acting up, catch it while it's at normal hot idle and disconnect it so you keep the idle. It won't compensate for cold starts, but at least you'll have a proper hot idle 'till you get a replacement in.

Off-topic; what's the reason for the Volvo injectors?

 

It didn't occur to me to just un-plug the idle valve and "freeze" it in position.
Good idea.

As far as the injectors.
This is one of the best modifications that I've ever made on my 88 model 4.0L Renix engine.
Smooth idle and acceleration...plus more power and fuel economy.
Read up on it.

I got 6 injectors on E-*** for $36 delivered.
They were used, but I tested them and the spray pattern and volume was in spec.
I'm truly impressed with the change it made to my truck.
I don't know if it was just running that badly to begin with, but it is much improved.
They are truly "plug and play" with zero modifications required to install them.
They are Bosch #9454555 injectors (Volvo Part #0 280 155 746 and were used on their later model 5 cylinder engines))