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i6 4.0l oil leaking question

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Old 12-15-2010, 06:06 PM
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Default i6 4.0l oil leaking & high idle

suprise suprise oil leaks everywhere lol...

ok, so this is my second jeep i've had two 1988s one two door and one four door...

this one i have now is a 4 door 4.0l w/ auto...

it has about 200k on it... it leaks oil like a bastard... looks to be coming out of the rear main... i put a new two piece rear main in it... it still leaks... and it seems worse... lol... the old one was very hard and crusty and was a pain in the *** to get out... i did manage to get the other one in correctly, with it pointing the right way.

it only leaks while the engine is running too...

i have heard there are a lot of problems with these rear mains not sealing up, and leaking even when they are brand new... and that some people have to put a couple in before they get it to stop leaking... is this true? is that what i'm stuck with? having to put another one in and hoping for the best????

i checked the back of the valve cover and its not leaking oil... is there anything else??? its definatly engine oil... coming from the back of the down the inspection plate and onto the exhaust (of course, love that oil burning smell).

should i just keep putting them in until it seals? i haven't had a chance to drive it a lot, and get it nice and hot... but i have driving it around town a couple times... i have also heard that it might take it a while to finally seal, after getting hot a bunch of times and expanding?? is this true????

after searching i'm going to check the o ring around the oil filter adapter

also, i want to make sure i have the terminology correct with what i believe is called a 4 link front, where there is a link between the sway bar and the rig than you can disconnect to get my flex without having to pull your sway bar off and on...

ohh, also it has a pretty annoying high idle problem, when its first started it will high idle out of control once it starts to warm up, if i turn it off and then back on most of the time the idle will settle down to normal/normalish ~1000rpms. it has a really goofy *** cold idle system that i do not understand and don't really want to. can someone help me out with this?

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current:

Last edited by spiceman; 12-15-2010 at 06:19 PM.
Old 12-15-2010, 06:42 PM
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I would venture to say your oil filter adapter might be your culpret. If your gonna rremove it, buy the KIT from the dealer. It come with 3 different sized O rings. The one you get from the auto parts store only comes with the 1 large O ring.

Yes I believe the front suspension is refered to as a 4 link.

You high idle could be your Idle Air Control valve/ sensor and your Throttle Position Sensor. I would also run some Sea Foam in the gas tank for good measure. Good Luck!!
Old 12-15-2010, 07:00 PM
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i looked at the adapter and i can find anything leaking but id have to get under it tomorrow its dark atm...

where is the iat located? i have a multimeter i can fheck the throttle position. ill do that tomorrow too probably...

thx
Old 12-16-2010, 04:32 PM
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cleaned the iac waiting a bit to start it again, letting the brake clean evaporate...

can't find any oil leaking from the oil filter area anywhere.

its probably the damn rear main seal... i'll give it a couple long drives to heat up and maybe seal before trying to put another one in. i used regular rtv silicone on it without knowing it might cause a problem when i did it...
Old 12-16-2010, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by spiceman
suprise suprise oil leaks everywhere lol...

ok, so this is my second jeep i've had two 1988s one two door and one four door...

this one i have now is a 4 door 4.0l w/ auto...

it has about 200k on it... it leaks oil like a bastard... looks to be coming out of the rear main... i put a new two piece rear main in it... it still leaks... and it seems worse... lol... the old one was very hard and crusty and was a pain in the *** to get out... i did manage to get the other one in correctly, with it pointing the right way.

it only leaks while the engine is running too...

i have heard there are a lot of problems with these rear mains not sealing up, and leaking even when they are brand new... and that some people have to put a couple in before they get it to stop leaking... is this true? is that what i'm stuck with? having to put another one in and hoping for the best????

i checked the back of the valve cover and its not leaking oil... is there anything else??? its definatly engine oil... coming from the back of the down the inspection plate and onto the exhaust (of course, love that oil burning smell).

should i just keep putting them in until it seals? i haven't had a chance to drive it a lot, and get it nice and hot... but i have driving it around town a couple times... i have also heard that it might take it a while to finally seal, after getting hot a bunch of times and expanding?? is this true????

after searching i'm going to check the o ring around the oil filter adapter

also, i want to make sure i have the terminology correct with what i believe is called a 4 link front, where there is a link between the sway bar and the rig than you can disconnect to get my flex without having to pull your sway bar off and on...

ohh, also it has a pretty annoying high idle problem, when its first started it will high idle out of control once it starts to warm up, if i turn it off and then back on most of the time the idle will settle down to normal/normalish ~1000rpms. it has a really goofy *** cold idle system that i do not understand and don't really want to. can someone help me out with this?

old jeep:




current:
when you put the seal in did you stick it to the pan or motor and did you use the felpro one pc pan gasket?
Old 12-16-2010, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
when you put the seal in did you stick it to the pan or motor and did you use the felpro one pc pan gasket?
i'm not sure what you mean by sticking the seal to the pan or motor?

i did use a one piece pan gasket, its not leaking out of the pan its leaking up high enough to where it runs down the inspection plate.
Old 12-16-2010, 04:48 PM
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it not the vave cover you said correct you got the seal in correct ,the pan gasket did you stick it to the bottom of the motor then put the pan on
Old 12-16-2010, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
it not the vave cover you said correct you got the seal in correct ,the pan gasket did you stick it to the bottom of the motor then put the pan on
uh no it was stuck to the pan. but the pan isn't leaking. its running down the inspection plate lol
Old 12-16-2010, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by spiceman
uh no it was stuck to the pan. but the pan isn't leaking. its running down the inspection plate lol
the gasket getstuck to the motor it might of poped out in the back running down the pate
Old 12-16-2010, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
the gasket getstuck to the motor it might of poped out in the back running down the pate
it glued it to the pan. i'm pretty sure its leaking out of the rear main

i can check again though
Old 12-16-2010, 05:03 PM
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there was apost on here about amont ago a member did his three times untill some one said it goes to the motor it was not sitting in the groove in the rear cap and keep pushing out he showed pics
Old 12-16-2010, 06:44 PM
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nice call dude! i crawled under with a light and it is leaking from only the back of the pan now. i had noticed that the leak had slowed down a bit. i think the main finally sealed up and this is still leaking.

dropping the pan sucks but at least ii don't have to do the main again.

thx for the help
Old 12-16-2010, 06:54 PM
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you welcome get a new gasket if you can felpro silicone
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Old 12-16-2010, 07:25 PM
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actualyl its still leaking on the seal too. i can see it barely getting through the silicone.

i guess i have to just do it all again, main and pan gasket
Old 12-16-2010, 07:34 PM
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good news is that i was able to get it idling better.

i took off the iac and it was clean, and looked brand new. but inside the tb was really dirty. so i cleaned all inside the tb and the passages. and it still idled high so i set the tps. and now it seems better. it idles around 1100 cold and ~800 warm. its hard to tell because there isn't much needle movement below 1000rpms


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