i put vacuum to my axle actuator and still no 4x4
#1
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i put vacuum to my axle actuator and still no 4x4
this is pissin me off i have 18 inches of snow on the way and still no 4 wheel.
i put vacuum to all the lines. Green i pumped up to 15HG on the vacuum pump and no engagement. I couldnt really pump it any higher than 15 because it wouldnt hold vacuum. I pumped up both lines on the rubber connector here and nothing. (did one at a time), maxed them out and still no engagement.
I put the truck up in the air in 4H and 4L in gear with wheels spinning to see if the fronts would engage while messing with the gauge. Nothing.
Axle Actuator is $199 thru the shop's cost!!! Do I have a bad actuator? i wanna know before i drop 2 bills on this thing.
this is what im dealing with right now. capt. of iron seems to be one of the only person on the forum that knows what hes talking about here comon! I need to diagnose this this is like my 4th thread.
Original thread with diagram with pictures of problem https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/no-...k-woods-37001/
i put vacuum to all the lines. Green i pumped up to 15HG on the vacuum pump and no engagement. I couldnt really pump it any higher than 15 because it wouldnt hold vacuum. I pumped up both lines on the rubber connector here and nothing. (did one at a time), maxed them out and still no engagement.
I put the truck up in the air in 4H and 4L in gear with wheels spinning to see if the fronts would engage while messing with the gauge. Nothing.
Axle Actuator is $199 thru the shop's cost!!! Do I have a bad actuator? i wanna know before i drop 2 bills on this thing.
this is what im dealing with right now. capt. of iron seems to be one of the only person on the forum that knows what hes talking about here comon! I need to diagnose this this is like my 4th thread.
Original thread with diagram with pictures of problem https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/no-...k-woods-37001/
Last edited by 88GTBlack; 02-23-2010 at 08:37 PM.
#2
The vacuum shift motors on the axle are notorious for failing. It is not a completely sealed unit and dirt does get inside of it causes wear on the rubber diaphram. Your Jeep is also 22 years old and age has an effect on the performance of the shift motor also.
#3
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 inline six
there was vacum to mine but the shift motor wasn't working so I opted to put on the PosiLok system.It uses a pull cable to engadge the axle.
#4
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Year: 1989
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I heard someone saying doing that will not give you true 4LO or something is this true? This pull cable sounds like a good option
#6
The shift motor on the axle has absolutely NOTHING to do with 4 hi or 4 lo. It simply slides a collar into place and connects the two pieces of the passenger side axle shaft. Since the front axle is an open differential it sends power to the wheel with the least amount of traction. Therefore when the collar does not slide over the inner shaft spins and the front tires does not turn.
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#8
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Year: 1989
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The shift motor on the axle has absolutely NOTHING to do with 4 hi or 4 lo. It simply slides a collar into place and connects the two pieces of the passenger side axle shaft. Since the front axle is an open differential it sends power to the wheel with the least amount of traction. Therefore when the collar does not slide over the inner shaft spins and the front tires does not turn.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...Q5fAccessories
BS? what is he talking about and why is the cable almost as much as the actuator itself???
BS? what is he talking about and why is the cable almost as much as the actuator itself???
#12
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Year: 1987
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sounds like he has a way to do it cheap or you can order the PosiLok system.Its not just a cable its a new axle piece,all the hardware and assembly stuff.
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Year: '99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
If your thinking about 2 bills. Then why not just get a non disco d30 out of a 91-99. By me its about 1 to 1 1/2 and you never have to deal with it agean. Just saying if you don't need the head akes why ask for them.
#15
Lets get super cheap, yet still effective here. If you have enough mechanical skill you can fix the shift fork into the permantly locked position for less than $2. Before you ask, no it will not keep the front axle locked into 4wd because that is controled within the transfer case, it simply makes the 2 piece axle shaft into a 1 piece. Exactly the same as a a non-disco axle that has a 1 piece shaft.
Unplug the vacuum lines from the shift motor.
Place a drain pan under the shift motor to catch any diff fluid that may drain out.
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the shift motor in place and remove it.
Remove the c-clips that hold the shift fork in place on the fork shaft. Be careful because they like to become airborne and disappear into thin air when they pop off.
Pull the shift fork shaft partially out of the housing.
Place washers on the shaft to keep it in the locked position. 6 to 8 will do.
Slide the collar into place over the the pieces of the axle shaft.
Reassemble the shift motor with the c-clips after you spend an hour trying to find out where they landed.
Clean the mounting surfaces on the axle housing and the shift motor.
Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the axle housing and shift motor.
Check the diff fluid level and add some if needed.
Reinstall the shift motor.
Reattach the vacuum lines. (I know, you don't need them now but they will prevent vac leaks in other places.
Go get the Jeep muddy.
Unplug the vacuum lines from the shift motor.
Place a drain pan under the shift motor to catch any diff fluid that may drain out.
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the shift motor in place and remove it.
Remove the c-clips that hold the shift fork in place on the fork shaft. Be careful because they like to become airborne and disappear into thin air when they pop off.
Pull the shift fork shaft partially out of the housing.
Place washers on the shaft to keep it in the locked position. 6 to 8 will do.
Slide the collar into place over the the pieces of the axle shaft.
Reassemble the shift motor with the c-clips after you spend an hour trying to find out where they landed.
Clean the mounting surfaces on the axle housing and the shift motor.
Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the axle housing and shift motor.
Check the diff fluid level and add some if needed.
Reinstall the shift motor.
Reattach the vacuum lines. (I know, you don't need them now but they will prevent vac leaks in other places.
Go get the Jeep muddy.