And.... Welcome home! And thank you!

 

As a FYI, the rear main may or may not be leaking. It gets blamed a lot because any oil leak higher up runs to the RMS area and drips. Leaks at the valve cover, oil filter adapter and oil pressure sender are very common. A good cleaning should allow you to see what's really leaking.
Did the Jeep sit for a long time before you bought it?

 

Highly recommend getting a FSM from a reputable source, it is WAY better than having a Haynes manual. I got a PDF so that I can print out the pages I need at: http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/j...e_manuals.html

2.0L 75w140 gear oil + Fel-Pro Gasket = $20.00
Synthetic will be more and is worth it IMO. Find out which rearend you have and get the gasket for a much cleaner job. Be sure and clean everything real good while you have it opened up as well.

1.5L 75w90 gear oil + Fel-Pro Gasket = $20.00
Same with the front diff

1.3L ATF+4 = $15.00
Get a fluid siphon pump from the auto parts store and it will make this way easier. I use ATF+4, but Dex/merc is fine also if you just wanna stick with 1 fluid for both the TC and Trans. Not sure what they mean by re-seal though? Unless there is a seal leaking, in which case you'll have to fine out which one and replace it. (i.e. input shaft, output shaft, etc.)

3.5Qts Dex/Merc Trans fluid = $30.00
Total capacity = 8.9Qts so drain and refill about 3 times and you should be good. If you want to change the filter & clean the magnets in the tray you can, but odds are the metal screen is going to be fine, up to you.
Transmission Filter + Pan gasket #FK227 = $25.00

32oz Dot3 Brake Fluid = $8.00
Siphon the old fluid out of the resovior and pour in the new fluid, then Rig up a clear tube to a brake bleeder bottle and bleed each corner until you see clean fluid.

Fel-Pro Rear main seal set #BS40183 = $38.00
There are write-ups on how to do this one, not too difficult from what I hear, haven't done it yet myself though. Radi is right though, it is more than likely dripping from somewhere higher. Like in my case, I have a leak from my oil filter adapter o-ring.

Fel-Pro Gasket #OS34308R = $25.00
Could be tricky getting the oil pan out, but is very doable on jack stands

Gates#6K950 = $40.00
The tensionor pulley is right below the power steering pump. Just following the the old belt routing.

Oh and welcome home from a fellow service member!

 

Are those manuals on that site just scanned pages of the FSM put in to PDF format? I'm curious how the pages look. I'm not a fan of scanned pages in crappy quality!

 

I actually posted the wrong link, I fixed it, looks like the same website though.

No it is a true pdf that has bookmark sections that are clickable to jump to that section and the whole document is searchable. It is extremely handy. For $8 it is worth every penny.

 

Sounds like you've got the right idea! I dove into DIY when a shop tried to charge me $375 after replacing my starter when all I asked for was a quote. They were caught off guard when I told them it had better be plated in 24K gold, or I'd be using my spare key to take my vehicle back and they'd never see a penny if they didn't give me a realistic price. (I settled on $225 to avoid the cops even though it was still a rip off.) I can now do that job myself in under 15 minutes for under $150 with a quality new part.

Definitely give everything a thorough cleaning prior to fixing any of the "problem" seals. Then you won't waste time fixing something that wasn't really leaking. I spent the last year looking at used XJs and over 50% of them had a leaky oil filter adapter o-ring, almost as many had a leaky valve cover gasket - both of which will leak down right where the rear main seal is and blow back onto the bellhousing. Replacing the RMS is a lot more intensive than either of the others.

Brake fluid: will definitely absorb water and from what I can find should be replaced every 4 years or so. I had a 96 XJ that bled-out black brake fluid when I flushed the system. It could have been original, and would definitely explain all the pin-hole leaks in the metal hard lines. Corroding from the inside out! WAY smoother braking after I replaced all the fluid and rusted parts.

Between my Haynes manual and this forum (thanx everyone!) I've never tackled a job that I couldn't finish and I'm completely self-taught and started with minimal tools. Even with buying specialty tools or new tools I've saved myself thousands of dollars in the last 3 years by doing all the work in my driveway. Plus, now I know my Jeep inside and out, and am confident the work was done properly. Another good resource I found is www.stu-offroad.com, even though he has a TJ wrangler it's mostly 4.0 engine and D30 axle stuff which is the same on the XJs.

Also, I've found that replacing questionable/old fluids with new synthetics is definitely worth the money, especially if you live in a cold climate. When it gets down to zero Farenheit or colder it's easy to tell the difference between synthetic and dino. The engine oil, transfer case and diffs all have way less resistance and run/start smoother when frozen with synthetics in 'em! (plus it seems to last longer) And when you do your diffs, get a gasket instead of using RTV. I've used both and the gaskets are maybe a little more expensive in the long run, and they're WAY easier/quicker to work with.

Happy wrenching, and thank you for your service!

 

Good to know. The jeep sat for about 60 days. My wife did start it up once a week and take it to get the mail. Thank you again everyone for the detailed replies. I was hoping there was a forum support group. Lol

 

Courtesy of Macgyver35:
Personally, rather
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times, I
prefer the "let the granny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush I'd far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary.
Hope this is helpful sir.

 

Very nice. Now I just have to figure out where these connection points are actually at.

 

They actually go into your radiator sir..... Get under your rig and look at the bottom of your radiator.....or you could even follow the lines from your tranny..... Get a quick disconnect tool available at any parts store.... Its a pain in the *** but its ALOT easier with said tool.
Most if us members here seem to be in one branch of the military or another. Including myself lol.....

 

I'll give it a go. I'm still going to drop the pan though just to change the filters.

 

They must have forgot to give you some decimal points on those prices. If not please get a print out of the quote, name of the shop so we can all call them and tell them how ridiculous they are. And to see if they are hiring maybe they pay good if they are raking in that kind of money.

 

Have fun getting the factory red silicone sealant off, that was a pita. Oh and there is a mounting bolt for the trans dipstick on the passenger side of the block, be sure and take that off before you drop the pan. And be careful with the wiring harness all around the dipstick as well, some people have had issues after messing with it.

 

HAHA how funny would that be?!? Some shop getting hundreds of calls, harassing them for days cuz they tried to rip one guy off. Man, that made me laugh!

 

I paid $110.00 for a trans service.