Yeah, it's got a front skid, IIRC a transfer case skid, and a gas tank skid. Along with gas charged shocks, and 2 recovery hooks in front, and 1 in back.

 

i think it's also got a factory lift of 1 or 2in.

 

Heres some advice... jack that **** up and throw some 35's on it, some lockers, some babes, and go wheeling!!!

 

Take it for a test drive and watch for "death wobble" at interstate speeds. Make sure the 4x4 works. Also, check for any leaking fluids (especially oil at the rear main seal). I can't stress enough what was already said about the rear hatch shocks. Not that I would be worried about bumping my head, but having to hold up the hatch while loading/unloading is real PITA. Like purchasing any vehicle; just make sure it was well maintained.

 

1. You have to have a manual? If you plan on wheeling it, in my experience an auto is easier to wheel with.
2. Dana 30 is the model number of the axle. the u-joints are what allow the axle to turn and steer at the same time. Google should help you get a good idea how a u-joint performs.
3. 8.25, honestly not sure why its called that. The '98 came with two options, 8.25 29 spline or Dana 35 27 spline. If you plan to wheel it hard or put big tires on it look for the 8.25. Simply put more splines=stronger axle. Again google or the search button on this forum will help you identify axles.
4. Some common XJ problems, rear main seal, oil filter housing and valve cover leaks when the miles creep up. Cracked exhaust manifold is also another common occurance.
5. Watch for excessive rust, floorboards and rockers seem to be most at risk. Best advice, take your time when looking, I looked at about two dozen basket cases before finding mine and actually bought it for a lot less than what the basketcase owners were asking for theirs. I'd also suggest buying one thats stock, they tend to be in better shape and that way you can make sure everything is done correctly when you build it and not just hope the last guy new what he was doing.
Good luck man!

 

Actually the rear hatch shocks can go both ways, when I was looking at mine, I opened the hatch and the thing about killed me on the way up. I was expecting them to be worn out but it turns out the PO had just replaced them, bonus! Hatch test 101, lift hatch and note results. If afterward you have a bump on the head, shocks bad. If you have a sore jaw and missing teeth, shocks good. LOL!

 

I am not planning on wheeling my Cherokee. This will be my daily driver. Thanks, you gave some great tips!

 

hey man, if your in ravenna you might want to try those couple of car lots on rt. 14 in edinburgh theres always a couple of cherokees sitting out there and pretty decent prices too, i havent stopped to look at them up close but from what i can see at 45 miles an hour they look pretty clean. if you need some help wrenching one of these days i'm in akron and i have an uncle that lives on porter rd so i'm usually out that way and always need to get my hands dirty lol.

 

if you get stuck, go forwards and backwards lots of times to "rock" yourself out of the hole. if still unable do the same whilst moving steering wheel left and right a lot, and you will get yourself out. lockers help tons. lunchbox lockers are ok unless you get too much tire or gun the motor too much.

 

I live in MI, so I know the rust issue. Another place you need to look is above the catalytic converter - they are known to rust there. Why are you set on getting a manual transmission? There isn't anything wrong with it, I'm just curious. A lot of younger drivers don't even know how to drive a manual - so kudos. If you happen to get a 99-01 Cherokee, watch for a leaky head gasket on the 4.0; and on the same MY, watch for a cracked head. Watch for saggy rear leaf springs, no sense in buying a dd if you need to replace a leaf pack. Good luck!

 

I want to get a stick because I want more control of my automobile, it's also good to know how to drive stick, and it's way more fun. Also, I think it will help me stay alert on the road more, but that's not really a reason.