Bruce in Montana

I see a lot of posts re: problems with the cps.
I'm sure mine hasn't been changed in years, if ever.
Is it a good idea to take the thing off and clean it?

Thanks

tjwalker

Nope. Cleaning is not going to help you.

I did replace the original crank sensor "preventively" a while back on my 99. I then put the old crank sensor (which was still operational) in my spares kit, so I always have one on the road.

Please use MOPAR crank sensors for the best reliability. Aftermarket crank sensors are "hit and miss" with a lot of miss.

F1Addict

Oh my god. You all are making this far too complicated. Pulling carpet, unbolting air ducts, disconnecting drive shafts? Seriously?

First of all, your natural instinct is to slide under the car head-first from the driver's side. Unfortunately this puts your bendy parts in all the wrong directions for reaching the CPS. Go in feet first and slide all the way in, it's much easier to reach that way. Use an extension or a collection of them to get to the retaining bolts.

Tip: Harbor Freight (and millions of other stores) sells small, cylindrical magnets that you can attach to your socket, the smaller ones will fit inside the socket and leave enough space for the socket to seat on the bolt. This will magnetize the whole thing and prevent the bolts from falling into the bell housing when they come loose.

The first time I replaced mine it took about 40 minutes because I went in head-first, didn't have enough extensions, no magnet, etc. Sadly, I forgot to zip-tie the wire and it melted to my header the first time I started (so don't forget to do that). I removed the CPS to repair the damage and reinstalled, round two only took about 15 minutes (removal and reinstall). I've changed them out for friends since then and it takes me about 10-15 minutes.

the_ricker

Ive done the CPS 5 times between my rig and the junkyard. I finally figured out how to do it in less than 5 minutes.
1)Use ratchet with extension(s) to break the bolts loose from under the truck
2)Use a cheap 1/4" drive screwdriver type handle with a long extension, and add another 3" or so extension till its in a comfortable range.(Wobble Extensions are Awesome) unbolt
(beats the hell out of ratcheting the bolts 1/32 of a turn for 15 minutes straight)
3)Pull up sensor by wire from under the hood - unplug - PLUG IN New Sensor
4)Use your fingers and squeeze your hand behind the harnesses at the firewall to get the sensor in the general area in needs to go.
5)Apply peroxide and bandaids.
6) Get back under truck. use extra long needlenose pliers to position sensor into hole. This would be the trickiest part. Doesnt have to be perfect cause you can guide the bolt into the hole.
7)Guide the bolts in with your 1/4" handle - tighten - tighten securely with ratchet.

lecollazo

Thanks for the provided info. Today I changed the CPS.

It was not complicated, but it took some time.

BatmanXJ

I changed mine in about 20 mins.
I am a 300lb guy too. So if I could do it skinny guys should have no problem lol.

How I changed mine.
Went under head first drivers side. (Left handed)
Unbolted the shift cable bracket.
Then used
7/16 swivel socket. Not a wobble and 7/16 socket. The swivel socket on 3/8 drive with one extension.
I got my right hand all the way up to the top from the front of belhousing. Got the socket started and un bolted with left hand.
Same in reverse for installing. I was able to finger tight with right hand from top to get them started.
I really thought it would take longer after reading how all the other people had dine theirs. To each is to own I guess.

furbzzz

i had a lot of trouble doing mine but i was able to get it done. half of the old sensor was stuck in the bell housing so i got what i could out of there and the rest fell in. after a few miles i guess it broke apart and everything seems fine now.

BatmanXJ

U should take ur dust cover off the bottom and get as much of it out as pissible.

Kotsie 13

Anybody know how important the inspection/dust cover is on the bell housing right where the CPS mounts Jw because the last time I was in there doing mine I had noticed it was missing ,. Idk thanks

DFlintstone

Don't worry about that POS plastic shield.

Change a CPS. A jack-stand under the left frame might be in your way. BACKING the front onto ramps is an option. Sometimes when I lift a vehicle, I see if I can push it off it's “lift” before I go underneath. You lay on your back with your feet out under the passenger side. With your LEFT hand you can reach up past the front drive-line to hold the CPS. (if your forearm is smaller than a quart mason jar)(if not maybe pull the drive-line). It's 7/16-or 11mm bolts on the older Jeeps. You want 11mm. or 7/16 socket, to 3 inch extension, to swivel,> then 18 to 24 inches of extension to your 3/8 ratchet in your RIGHT hand down by the tranny cross member. If there is a plastic deal there, can it. DON'T drop a bolt in there! (just don't!!!). When you are starting out, if you tie a long string, 5ive feet, to the old plug, you can then use that to haul the new one back up.
If your wires go through a metal band secured by an engine to bell housing bolt, cut them. To finish, zip tie, or make darn sure the wires won't rub/chafe or burn on anything. The second one is a relative piece if cake! (½ hr job!)

Kotsie 13

Thanks was Jw , figured I'd forget bout it anyway , a second opinion is allways nice

CCKen

Hay fellas, new hear. I wuz wundering if someone could tell me how to change a cps.

BatmanXJ

First off you need a BFH.

Take BFH and brake both tail lights out so you can get to the wiper motor. Then you use the stock jack under the passenger seat to pick it up for clearance to get to the fuel pump. (be sure to unhook negative side battery cable first) Once you get your passenger seat up high enough to get to the fuel pump you will be able to remove the valve cover. With the valve cover off you need to put your spare tire on your passenger side rear. Then you will need to let all the windows down for the next part. With all of the windows down you can remove your rear drive shaft. Then with rear drive shaft out weld all of the u-joints up. Your are almost there now. Test your headlights. If they don't work your done. do everything in reverse order except for the tail lights. since they will pretty much be broken.


lol

DFlintstone

I've changed it five times and no change with my spark.

CCKen

WTF is that!