How to properly check Cherokee coolant level?
04-19-2018, 02:25 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
How to properly check Cherokee coolant level?
I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee sport that I recently replaced the water pump and thermostat on. It has a new heater core as well. The engine never got too hot or anything, the bearing just went in the water pump and it made a horrible noise. Right now I’m trying to diagnose a problem with no heat. It was working perfectly up until about 3 weeks after I changed the water pump and thermostat. Now It only blows cold air through the vents. Sometimes when I’m driving it will warm up, sometimes it stays cold. Very weird.
Anyways, before I rip the dash apart (or pay a shop to), I’d like to rule out any simple fixes. I would like to know what the proper way to check the coolant level is? I filled it back up after changing the water pump, but I was unsure about whether you check the coolant when it’s hot or when it’s cold. Usually vehicles have a “cold fill” line on the reservoir. When my Jeep is hot, at 210 degrees, the reservoir is just about at the “full” mark. When it’s cold, there is much less coolant in the reservoir.
So could someone help me out? Do I check it hot or cold, and do I need to add coolant?
Anyways, before I rip the dash apart (or pay a shop to), I’d like to rule out any simple fixes. I would like to know what the proper way to check the coolant level is? I filled it back up after changing the water pump, but I was unsure about whether you check the coolant when it’s hot or when it’s cold. Usually vehicles have a “cold fill” line on the reservoir. When my Jeep is hot, at 210 degrees, the reservoir is just about at the “full” mark. When it’s cold, there is much less coolant in the reservoir.
So could someone help me out? Do I check it hot or cold, and do I need to add coolant?
Last edited by mikecorrell; 04-19-2018 at 02:29 PM.
04-19-2018, 02:44 PM
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Did you burp the system after doing the WP?
I don't think the lack of heat is low coolant (unless you're seeing wild temp gauge fluctuations), I'd suspect the blend door.
When I do anything that involves emptying coolant, I fill the radiator until it won't take anymore then run the engine with the rad cap off. I fill the radiator as necessary and once the engine is close to or at temp, cap the radiator and fill the overflow to the full hot level.
It can help to elevate the front drivers side (either parking on a hill or with a jack) so the radiator cap opening is higher than the rest of the system.
I don't think the lack of heat is low coolant (unless you're seeing wild temp gauge fluctuations), I'd suspect the blend door.
When I do anything that involves emptying coolant, I fill the radiator until it won't take anymore then run the engine with the rad cap off. I fill the radiator as necessary and once the engine is close to or at temp, cap the radiator and fill the overflow to the full hot level.
It can help to elevate the front drivers side (either parking on a hill or with a jack) so the radiator cap opening is higher than the rest of the system.
04-19-2018, 04:08 PM
#3
CF Veteran
Did you burp the system after doing the WP?
I don't think the lack of heat is low coolant (unless you're seeing wild temp gauge fluctuations), I'd suspect the blend door.
When I do anything that involves emptying coolant, I fill the radiator until it won't take anymore then run the engine with the rad cap off. I fill the radiator as necessary and once the engine is close to or at temp, cap the radiator and fill the overflow to the full hot level.
It can help to elevate the front drivers side (either parking on a hill or with a jack) so the radiator cap opening is higher than the rest of the system.
I don't think the lack of heat is low coolant (unless you're seeing wild temp gauge fluctuations), I'd suspect the blend door.
When I do anything that involves emptying coolant, I fill the radiator until it won't take anymore then run the engine with the rad cap off. I fill the radiator as necessary and once the engine is close to or at temp, cap the radiator and fill the overflow to the full hot level.
It can help to elevate the front drivers side (either parking on a hill or with a jack) so the radiator cap opening is higher than the rest of the system.
Also when you did the heater core, did you use new hoses for it? If not, those could be clogged up.
04-20-2018, 06:43 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I keep forgetting I have Jeep Service Manuals. According to it the level in the overflow tank should be between the add and full mark when cold. I swap out my coolant every 2 years in my '00. Regular green stuff. I would fill up as much as I could in the radiator, let it run, add as needed, then you get to the point where it just starts bubbling out. I cap it off and add some to the overflow tank. I drive around keeping an eye on. Add coolant as needed. Couple days all the air burps out and I get it to the level I want. So thinking driving yours as you have there is no air in there.
Couple years ago I invested in this:
Works great. 1/2 hour maybe 45 minutes and you are good. You always have to make sure there is some coolant in the funnel. I hook my scanner up because I can look at the RPM's with it and from the engine compartment keep it at about 1500 RPM. This way I can monitor the RPM's and keep an eye on the funnel.
As far as your no heat I am wondering if your thermostat is defective. Would not be the first time a new part was defective out of the box.
Couple years ago I invested in this:
Works great. 1/2 hour maybe 45 minutes and you are good. You always have to make sure there is some coolant in the funnel. I hook my scanner up because I can look at the RPM's with it and from the engine compartment keep it at about 1500 RPM. This way I can monitor the RPM's and keep an eye on the funnel.
As far as your no heat I am wondering if your thermostat is defective. Would not be the first time a new part was defective out of the box.
04-20-2018, 06:48 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
If my thermostat wasn’t working or if my heater core was clogged, would both heater hoses of one of them be cold? That’s what I would think if the core either wasn’t getting heat or if it wasn’t letting it circulate. Both hoses are hot, so maybe it is my blend doors.
Has anyone done blend doors by cutting the heater box? I really don’t wanna pull the heater box out or pay a shop to, since I already had a shop do the heater core.
Has anyone done blend doors by cutting the heater box? I really don’t wanna pull the heater box out or pay a shop to, since I already had a shop do the heater core.
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