How much blowby is too much?
#1
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
How much blowby is too much?
Well, I've searched and found hundreds of threads with blowby mentioned, but no discussion of how much is too much.
Trying to decide if I'm going to fix the trans on my '97, or replace the vehicle. I've been looking at possible replacements, and passed on two that had lots of gasses coming out of the oil filler cap when the engine is running. By "lots" I mean, putting your hand over it is like putting your hand in front of a blow dryer. (But with rhythmic puffs, of course, not smooth like a blow dryer.)
The second one I looked at got my hand covered in oil in about 10 seconds.
I'm assuming that's way too much and indicates the rings are pretty shot.
But... why not ask the experts?
What do you think?
Trying to decide if I'm going to fix the trans on my '97, or replace the vehicle. I've been looking at possible replacements, and passed on two that had lots of gasses coming out of the oil filler cap when the engine is running. By "lots" I mean, putting your hand over it is like putting your hand in front of a blow dryer. (But with rhythmic puffs, of course, not smooth like a blow dryer.)
The second one I looked at got my hand covered in oil in about 10 seconds.
I'm assuming that's way too much and indicates the rings are pretty shot.
But... why not ask the experts?
What do you think?
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
+1 sounds pretty bad...
In the interest of actually answering your question, however, if the CCV system cannot recover all the vapors - and it's actually clean! - and you see oil in the air box, then I'd be concerned. If the CCV system is working and you don't see oil showing up elsewhere you wouldn't even notice, unless you were low on power and burning oil.
In the interest of actually answering your question, however, if the CCV system cannot recover all the vapors - and it's actually clean! - and you see oil in the air box, then I'd be concerned. If the CCV system is working and you don't see oil showing up elsewhere you wouldn't even notice, unless you were low on power and burning oil.
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
I'd do a wet/dry compression test. I haven't power braked mine with the cap off, but I'd bet it would spew pretty well. Runs strong, and gets over 20 MPG on the highway at 276K. Something like 1000 mi/quart, but something is always dripping a little.
Or like said, if the tranny is the issue, why not deal with just that? What is it doing anyway? The AW4 is a pretty durable old goat!
Or like said, if the tranny is the issue, why not deal with just that? What is it doing anyway? The AW4 is a pretty durable old goat!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 11-24-2013 at 11:35 PM.
#6
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I don't have that option when I'm kicking tires.
As for the oil, I'm not concerned about a little oil. I AM concerned about shot rings allowing excessive blowby.
I like to fix it, but it's not just the trans. It's running badly - hard starting & dying at idle, etc. Haven't found the root cause yet. Also leaking windshield, and worst of all, some rust on the right rear frame rail above the axle.
I think I'll post another thread with pics of the frame rust to get some opinions on fixing that. That's got me bugged more than anything. I don't want to drop 1 or 2k into a trans replacement if the vehicle is shot.
As for the oil, I'm not concerned about a little oil. I AM concerned about shot rings allowing excessive blowby.
I think I'll post another thread with pics of the frame rust to get some opinions on fixing that. That's got me bugged more than anything. I don't want to drop 1 or 2k into a trans replacement if the vehicle is shot.
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Probably IAC or TPS are the starting and idle problem... TPS can majorly screw up the transmission's behaviour, too.
If you're concerned about the amount of rust just pass on it. Everything else in these things is swappable and readily available. Once the body goes that's it.
If you're concerned about the amount of rust just pass on it. Everything else in these things is swappable and readily available. Once the body goes that's it.
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#8
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Year: 90,84
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Yep 276K and strong and fine. (I use the secret oil)! My bolw-by was not getting the air cleaner wet. I did take measures to be sure it won't as I pass 300K.
Gottchya' Maybe tomorrow I'll post a UTube of my old thing. I'm alone so likely will not power-brake it, but maybe a short clip of what it blows reeving it might be interesting.
Salad. Why can't I shove this copy ov xpIII into a Pesario?
Salad. Why can't I shove this copy ov xpIII into a Pesario?
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
What model/year? Don't make me copy cruiser54's boilerplate when somebody gives sufficient information :P
If newer probably lack of drivers. XP SP3 doesn't read new SATA disks natively and wants you to load the driver from floppy... lol
If newer probably lack of drivers. XP SP3 doesn't read new SATA disks natively and wants you to load the driver from floppy... lol
#11
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Engine: 4.0
IAC has been cleaned, TPS replaced. Still no joy there, but it's not a show stopper. Just something to run down, one step at a time.
Some folks replace a lot of sheet metal before they give up. I'm just not sure how repairable the frame rail is...
#12
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I've done some really bad frames on collector cars, it's just a matter of removing the bad parts and sectioning in new metal. Generally blast the entire frame down to bare metal to see what's there. You could replace the rails entirely if you needed to, the question is whether or not it's worth the time and effort.
#14
It's very repairable, but how much is it worth to you? They made millions of xj's
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3:15 AM VICTORY!!! the old XP Pro III is in the 98 compaq presario.
BlueRidgeMark , I, guarantee a U-tube post a vid of my blow-by later in case that helps. Don't forget "dynamic compression". A fancy term for un-plugging one wire at a time and noting the rpm drop. If course if you unplug, say #6 and the rpm's don't drop, #6 wasn't doing much!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 11-26-2013 at 05:55 PM. Reason: re-format