How do I stop freeze plugs from popping out??
I have a 2000 4 lt.Jeep engine with NEW radiator freshly rebuilt engine no head gasket leak (tested)new water pump,new radiator cap(18lb.)and continues to blow out side freeze plugs..Sal C Cracchiolo
The factory used a 16psi radiator cap, not 18. I dont know if thats your issue, but you should be using a 16. Who installed the freeze plugs, and did they use the right ones? How were the bores cleaned? Were they cleaned? It is possible to remove too much material depending on how they were cleaned, causing the plugs to blow. Remove too much and they can work themselves out. If they were not pressed in straight, or bent, that can be a problem.
The factory used a 16psi radiator cap, not 18. I dont know if thats your issue, but you should be using a 16. Who installed the freeze plugs, and did they use the right ones? How were the bores cleaned? Were they cleaned? It is possible to remove too much material depending on how they were cleaned, causing the plugs to blow. Remove too much and they can work themselves out. If they were not pressed in straight, or bent, that can be a problem.
I use Indian Head Gasket Shellac on them. But fb brings up some good points. Sure hope too much material wasn't removed. Better chance of them just not being installed right hopefully.
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From: Oregon (Wetside)
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant, this is what an old engine builder I know told me to use years ago. But plug still has to be installed right like others have said.
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Moderator CF K9-unit
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From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
I doubt the rad cap has anything to do with it. It would be blowing apart other things before pushing the freeze plugs out.
As long as they are set in straight and deep enough they should be good to go.
Ive seen people use sealant like Oswalla mentioned.. but I never have, just straight deep and tight
The brass ones are the best ones to use, not the steal ones.
As long as they are set in straight and deep enough they should be good to go.
Ive seen people use sealant like Oswalla mentioned.. but I never have, just straight deep and tight
The brass ones are the best ones to use, not the steal ones.
Last edited by Dumajones; Oct 30, 2017 at 12:40 PM. Reason: fixing shi*
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
They're actually casting plugs. Tac weld the suckers in there.
Moderator CF K9-unit
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From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
water pumps and radiators was the thing that broke.I've been told the freeze plug holes in an engine block are a byproduct/necessity of the metal-molding process, right?
Yes. They allow the removal of sand once the casting has cooled down.
Moderator CF K9-unit
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From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
Ok cool, Ive always gone by that since I was told by an old mechanic friend.
But I have had people get bent out of shape when I told them the true purpose of them like I was told..
Meh! armchair mechanics mostly
But I have had people get bent out of shape when I told them the true purpose of them like I was told..
Meh! armchair mechanics mostly
Last edited by Dumajones; Oct 30, 2017 at 03:58 PM. Reason: Fixing spelling
CF Veteran
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From: Santa Clarita California
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I clean and lightly sand the opening and when I install the new plug I use red lock-tight , with more then 40 years working on cars I never had a plug come out .
Has anyone have a part # for freeze plugs and their diameter? I have a box of ten plugs which have diameters from 2.01 -2.05 measured cup down on a flat table and measured with calipers. Sal C
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