How To Do A Compression Test
#16
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Looks like it started to cool off and the rings shrunk by the time you got to number 3 and the remaining. And unless you started it back up and reheated it, this would make sense with the 20 lbs difference in the first two then only 10 after that going back.
Those ring end gaps and groove tolerances make a lot of difference.
Well done Sir, Thank you and great to see you take the extra effort to experiment with this and do it twice.
Those ring end gaps and groove tolerances make a lot of difference.
Well done Sir, Thank you and great to see you take the extra effort to experiment with this and do it twice.
#17
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As soon as I knew what the code was I knew what was going on. I just thought it was funny when my friend started Googling it on his phone and saw post that said things like:
P1389 and Jeep wont start and Truck wouldnt start then threw a P1389. Not knowing it was ASD related yet.
P1389 and Jeep wont start and Truck wouldnt start then threw a P1389. Not knowing it was ASD related yet.
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I for one greatly appreciate you doing that.
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I'm grateful, too. I had not paid attention to this before, and now the data is posted so I know the difference.
#20
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There is one thing that confuses me on this. I have a '01 Jeep Service Manual. A real Mopar one. Picked it up for free a couple years back off Craigslist. Since I have a CA Emissions '00 I figured everything should be exactly the same. So they tell you how to do a compression test as I stated in the first post. No mention of doing of starting the motor to warm it up. No where in there could I find the specs for what the compression should be. You would think they would list it right where the instructions for doing the compression test are. They could be in there somewhere but I can't find them. Anyway the couple people that did post the specs said 120 to 150 with a difference of no more then 30 between any two cylinders. One guy that stated this in a Youtube video said he got those numbers out of his Chilton Manual. So I am reading higher on a couple cylinders when warm. Number 2 at 170 so 20 above the 150. So it makes me think that if the specs stated are correct it should be done cold. Now having a reading of 155 when cold on Number 6 is theoretically above spec. But my friend and I are speculating that could be from carbon build up. I did do that dribble the water in the throttle body steam cleaning thing a couple years ago. And I probably should take her on the highway more often and open her up.
#21
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There is one thing that confuses me on this. I have a '01 Jeep Service Manual. A real Mopar one. Picked it up for free a couple years back off Craigslist. Since I have a CA Emissions '00 I figured everything should be exactly the same. So they tell you how to do a compression test as I stated in the first post. No mention of doing of starting the motor to warm it up. No where in there could I find the specs for what the compression should be. You would think they would list it right where the instructions for doing the compression test are. They could be in there somewhere but I can't find them. Anyway the couple people that did post the specs said 120 to 150 with a difference of no more then 30 between any two cylinders. One guy that stated this in a Youtube video said he got those numbers out of his Chilton Manual. So I am reading higher on a couple cylinders when warm. Number 2 at 170 so 20 above the 150. So it makes me think that if the specs stated are correct it should be done cold. Now having a reading of 155 when cold on Number 6 is theoretically above spec. But my friend and I are speculating that could be from carbon build up. I did do that dribble the water in the throttle body steam cleaning thing a couple years ago. And I probably should take her on the highway more often and open her up.
#22
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I think I am going to run a compression test every year. But do it cold. I take out my plugs yearly to regap anyway. '00's having the coil bar so it is not like I have to keep track of any wires. Maybe an extra 1/2 hour and that is if I let my starter sit for a bit between each cylinder. Figure since I decided to do it cold, as well as warm, I have sort of a base line to work off of.
Last edited by Ralph77; 06-11-2018 at 04:44 PM.
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I think I am going to run a compression test every year. But do it cold. I take out my plugs yearly to regap anyway. '00's having the coil bar so it is not like I have to keep track of any wires. Maybe an extra 1/2 hour and that is if I let my starter sit for a bit between each cylinder. Figure since I decided to do it cold, as well as warm, I have sort of a base line to work off of.
#25
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Absolutely, once you have a baseline and get to know a particular engine you are good to go. But doing the research like you did is what makes a good mechanic Ralph. Extra leg work to see what truly makes the clock tic is how the oldtimers got so good back in the day. They weren't just parts changers... They were parts rebuilders... they knew how the inside of the part actually worked because they had taken the extra time to take that clock apart. Why replace a whole turbo control unit on a cummins ISX for $250 when after you take it apart and look inside it turns out all that fails is a 15 cent O-ring.
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With me it is all about maintenance. I picked this '00 up about 5 years ago now. Thought the price was reasonable for a kinda running but not really driveable project. Since I am older, don't have a life (LOL), and live a 1/2 mile from work I hardly drive her. And it is my DD and only car I own. So everything I do is done on a time frame and not mileage. I have put about 15K on her in the last 5 years. Oil changes and a lube get done in April and October. In April in an even year tranny fluid (only cause there is a drain plug on the pan), transfer case fluid, and anti-freeze get swapped out. This year I drained my PS fluid out of the reservoir and for the cost of about 12 oz of fluid think I will start doing that yearly too. Pull my plugs in April every year to regap so I figure I will throw the compression test into the equation. Crawl around under the Jeep every April and put a ratchet or wrench on every nut and bolt I can get at. I Fluid Film in October for the winter and power wash off in April. Thinking once I am done under there I might just Fluid Film in April for the whole year. Power wash and reapply every year in April from then on. Stuff is great but is mess when trying to work under the Jeep with the stuff applied. I swapped out my diff fluid for a synthetic a couple years ago so I just check the level when I do my oil changes. Thinking at some point in time would like to suck new brake fluid through the system. Probably just be a one time deal. I am little behind cause I have not done my anti-freeze yet. Also thinking will do a block test every time I swap the anti-freeze. Hey I bought the tool might as well use it.
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