smtippin

I'm not sure if this is up to par wit hthe XJ write up section, so I'll start it here and see where it ends up.

While searching for a method to flush my crankcase in my 150k mike engine, I was hesitant to use seafoam or any other additive that cleans too well as it would likely make any oil leaks worse and find new ones that were sealed by the sludge. As a result, I found a thread on this forum that discussed an ATF flush as it would not worsend leaks as the seafoam would. The following is an ATF flush procedure for a 4.4 BMW V8. Please note the changes in quantity for our XJs. This advice came directly from a Service Manager and concurred by BMW directly. I got it from: http://landroverforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6010.

Enjoy,
s


1. Warm-up engine and drain oil and replace filter.
2. Replace drained engine oil with 8 quarts of clean "transmission fluid" ....yes transmission fluid. REMEMBER tranny fluid is a lubricant as well as a detergent; this should break down years of sludge build-up, etc.
3. Start car idle for 10 minutes at about 1,500 rpm (NO HIGHER)!!!
4. Shut car and let rest for 5 minutes.
5. Repeat step #3 and #4 two more times.
6. Drain all fluids from crankcase and dispose of filter. Notice the color and opacity of the "what was once RED" fluid which is now black as night.
7. Procede with a fresh oil filter and 8 fresh quarts of synthetic.
8. I would reduce the interval of your next oil change by 50%; and repeat the above procedure. This time you should notice that the "Red" fluid going into the crankcase....should come out closer to its original color. Remember, the only way to see if this has effectively worked is by replacing the oil filter before running the tranny fluid; that way you are getting a realistic read on just how clean the system is running; the reuse of the "oil" filter will leave 1/2 to 3/4 quart of dirty oil to mix with the clear red fluid....you get the idea.
9. The detergent action of the tranny fluid will break-down all oil residue, sludge, junk and oil-burnished parts of the engine.
10. And this is safe for all the engine seals as well.

11. REMEMBER: YOU ARE NOT DRIVING THE CAR UNDER LOAD....YOU ARE ONLY IDLING @ 1500 rpm!